1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

CJ 5 F head 134 loses power. . .

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Boneypete, Nov 19, 2010.

  1. Snafu

    Snafu New Member

    From the description of the problem. It sounds like the float level in the carburetor is set low. There is enough gas in it until higher speed is reached. Then the bowl is emptied of fuel.

    Ed :tea:
     
  2. davet

    davet Member

    The falling off at top end with backfire could indicate worn/soft valve springs.
     
  3. Boneypete

    Boneypete Pete Hemesath

    Mike- If you got rid of you Cater Carb, for a Solex..and don't like the Solex.... If you had to do it over again woul you have rebuilt your Carter carb?

    Pete:tea:
     
  4. Boneypete

    Boneypete Pete Hemesath

    The electric fuel pump is what I had lying around. I guess I would like to think the Electric pump is more reliable over stock.
     
  5. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Did you recheck the point gap and distributor condition?
     
  6. Boneypete

    Boneypete Pete Hemesath

    Glenn- I havn't checked the Gaps yet.... what is spec .02?
     
  7. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Yes, .020.
     
  8. vicrider2000

    vicrider2000 New Member

    Carb check your float
     
  9. mikesgoat

    mikesgoat Member

    yes. I would love to still have my carter in; it was the victim of an over confident friend and a miss diagnosis. Guess he really COULDN'T work on carbs. lol. now i can and i always seem to find myself tearing apart the solex. It weeps pretty consistently. It's always wet. The carter is just a far better quality than a solex.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2011
  10. Boneypete

    Boneypete Pete Hemesath

    After some tinkering this weekend I have the following to Report:
    · Plugs gaps and appearance were checked they were all very close to .020 (.025 and adjusted down) and powdery black. Not at all oily. Black powder carbon fouling looked excessive …but, I don’t have much experience looking a carbureted plugs…… maybe running too rich?
    · Dry Compression test - was fine all. All cylinders were 109 PSI and up.
    · Carter YF Carburetor was pulled off and opened. I up found some sediment in the bowl (it looked like sand), no varnish……. I have rebuilt kit ordered. I have No experience with carburetors. The Float is suspect because the carb overflowed regularly….. I pulled some instructions for a carb rebuilt off http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Carter/YF/index.htm Does anyone have any words of wisdom? Or threads to recommend on earlycj…for Carb work? So far I have a little Air compressor and a can of carb cleaner and some time before the rebuilt kit shows up…..

    :?:flag:
     
  11. mikesgoat

    mikesgoat Member

    Good luck. The first time is a little intimidating no doubt. Go slow. Have a beer. All is good.
     
  12. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Plug gaps should be .030. You're saying you set them at .020? Black sooty means too rich, sounds like the carb is the main culprit. Not sure what too small a gap on the plugs would do, likely to produce your symptoms I'm betting.
     
  13. EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Mine did that when I had excessive fuel pressure, I needed to install a fuel pressure regulator. Might want to measure the fuel pressure ( and inspect the needle and seats)
     
  14. Boneypete

    Boneypete Pete Hemesath

    I completed the carb. re- build I am happy with it. I need to put it on ( carb) and regap the plugs. I plan to try to them out maybe next weekend, the weather is too poor this weekend here in Central Ca. I feel good about the carb. changes. and how all it's internals are clean and tight.
     
  15. tcfeet

    tcfeet Member

    I had a problem like you with mine.. Replaced the points, although they
    looked fine, and put a new coil on it.. I advanced the timing a bit also..
    I think the coil and new points made the difference. The spark was
    lots hotter..
     
  16. Boneypete

    Boneypete Pete Hemesath

    The saga continues, I got the rebuilt carb in and new plugs installed. She runs / idle fine. But, she’s still gutless in third gear..... The fuel over flowing the carb issue seems been fixed, I am now thinking now the issue it is the old centurial distributor. When I try to advance the timing the distributor hits on the block. I think i need to drop the pan to fix that issue... the distributor runs off the old pump right? I am also considering a solid state distributor and new coil. Anyone have any experience with the OMIX solid state distributor?
     
  17. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    You don't have to drop the pan to re-clock the oil pump, it's on the other side of the block underneath the exhaust manifold. ;)

    Before you go to all that trouble though, take a look at the bottom of the distributor, you might be able to loosen the hold-down plate and get a little more adjustment out of it, depending on what is hitting the engine.
     
  18. callen11

    callen11 New Member

    I tend to agree with the guys who are mentioning springs. Whether it be the return spring on the points or valve springs. If the springs are weak, they will not return fast enough at high RPM and cause the engine to lose power and backfire like you explain. You should be able to tell by listening to it whether it's timing or floating valves. Good luck.
     
  19. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    You did try new plugs.....right?
     
  20. cookieman

    cookieman Member

    Try a new set of points....only $6.50 worth a try and if it don't work,You still got new set .