Tie rod flip

Opinions and or user experience, which tie rod flip should I go for, Goferit or Rock Equipment?

 

Goferit has worked well for me. Works as advertised and easy to install.

 

I was considering that one too.....

 

I do like the Goferit inserts also..............but I do take the spindles off and and drill them in the mill to hold them down. Not easy drilling a 3/4" hole in an already tapered hole.........drill motor wants to take you for a ride when it catches.............done it before and can be done, just be prepared.

 

I had the knuckles off and in a vise. I can imagine it could but much more difficult on the vehicle. Drilled super easy with a stepped bit like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qu...r-inch-high-speed-steel-step-drill-44460.html

 

Drill from the other side.

 

I may try a bit like this with knuckles on jeep.

 

Mike........Good point and I have , from both the top and bottom. The best way I've found on the vehicle is with a tapered "Car" reamer, cuts like butter.......not cheap though , but I have them for drilling truck frames.
As I mentioned I normally take the spindle off as when doing the flip as most guys want to go to larger 1-ton Tie Rod ends and larger tubing anyway........at that point the holes have to be spread a little on the Passenger side which requires having it set up in the mill.

 

I did the goferit ones and I found the TRE were were tight in the adapter but were slipping in the knuckle hole ,I had to tack them in place . I remember drilling was very hard to do on the jeep.I also bought the heavy duty tie rod kit from Big Daddy Offroad ,and they have taken a beating and still look good.

 

I used a 3/4 bit and a drill press....the fitment wasn't a tight as I thought they made it seem like it should be. I wonder if that will be an issue? I didn't have to tap into place at all.

 

They also recommend tack welding the inserts. I recall that they were not a tight fit.

 

They should be tack welded in place.........if you know some one with a TIG machine that is the best process......and on some spindles the insert needs to be trimmed for length , the nut and the TRE sandwich the part on the spindle end .....check you fit.

 

I found over time and enough wheeling even the tacks aren't enough. I run a bead all the way around and have had no more issues.

 

I tacked mine in four spots.....will see how it holds up.

 

I tacked mine with my miller mig and I do have to trim the bottom. I believe most inserts you do.

 

I'll run it and see how it goes....

 

I've used the goforit inserts twice in a pitman arm, but in my knuckles I've always used a ream and a tapered insert. The tapered inserts have never been exactly right, so I put the insert in and then ream the hole from the top and it cuts the insert at the same time for proper TRE taper.

You can't use a cotter pin with the goforit inserts. One the first Jeep I used them on I never had an issue with the nut loosening, but I always thought about it. So the last time I used the goforit insert I didn't use their flanged/washer lock nut. Instead I ground some material off the pitman arm so that I could then use a conventional flat washer and then a cotter pin in the TRE, this was on a FSJ pitman arm.

 

A lot of people worry about not using a castle nut and cotter pin...it's more a mental than really. My 91 and 93 chevy trucks both use the lock nuts on the tie rod ends and drag link with no issues what so ever.

 

That would be on my mind all the time. Well, at least for the entire 62 minutes a year that my JEEP actually gets driven. I would definitely use a locknut if the cotter pin didn't fit.

 

Not worried about it at all......my 93 Chevy 4x4 has over 10k miles on it with lock nuts on ball studs. No issues what so ever.