Making My CJ5 Into A CJ6/II

Who do you know to get a "mock up case" for an Atlas!

 

Looks great as usual. What did you end up with for front/rear width inside the frame rails?

 

Sorry, No One............that one belongs to Advanced Adapters........on loan while there building me one.

 

i gotta meet this No One.
Your set up is great.

 

On the jig right now it is clamped up at ( inside frame dimension ) Front 27.250" and rear 31.250" for now, This gives me adequate clearance between the rails up front for the 5.7 SBC , steering , exhaust and drivers side front drive shaft.
From about the firewall rearward it widens up by 4 inches which gives me additional room for the 700R4 , Atlas TC, drive shaft and exhaust........and finishes up at the rear , outside to outside at 35.250" which is just .375 per side narrower than the tub is wide at 36" between the fender wells..........as I start to add the suspension and start to cycle it both in turning angle and articulation there still may be some minor changes in width.......just have to wait and see!

 

tease........

 

Tarry99, can you provide the dimensions of your frame jig? I'm getting ready to build one and have been debating about length, width, etc... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

Fly Navy,

This one has a single 6x6x.500 wall main tube that is 14' long. The permanent outriggers at each end are 36"wide. It sits on heavy steel casters and there is screw jacks at each end to level it. If you look through the photos you will see that all the other outriggers are movable back and forth along the length of the main tube being fixed by many groups of holes. These additional fixtures also have slotted holes to attach other fixtures that are used to clamp and hold things..............Size is really not important as long as you keep in mind that not one permanent fixture is going to work on everything that may find its way on a chassis Jig..........I have boxes of old fixtures that have been built and modified several times depending on need. It's just kind of a recycle project depending on whats on the fixture. None of these parts need to be cute cause you may tack weld something on and then later cut it back off..............this particular style of Chassis Jig with wheels works for me here at the house do to space and the single overhead hoist in the shop whereby I can move it into any position for heavy lifting..........and then later when I'm finished move it outside and cover it up.
At another shop we also have a platform fixture which is a more common chassis fixture that uses a 1"x60"x144" steel plate on a steel table about 24" high. This is much more permanent and of course all the fixtures would come up from the plate attached via threaded holes. Both types have there strong points..........The flat table fixture is much easier to build off of do to the flat bottom plain as opposed to having to move outriggers into position to support things above , the long tube does shine in the area of being lighter, more mobile and also easier to work under it if you were repairing something where the welding or fab work had to be done from the bottom............I have had full sized body cars on the tube fixture , less the motor and tranny. Just have to make sure it's balanced and some additional support like jack stands are used on the ends of the outriggers.......................Hope this helps!

 

Thanks, that helps alot!

 

Back to the Build, Wow can't believe the Holidays are over , hope everyone survived OK.........been a little busy with other projects although there is Brain Power going to this as I sort some things out.

Always a nice addition to the old tool box a Magnetic Level Laser ................nice to keep things straight especially when your working by yourself.


Thought the spot would show up but it's there




2x4x.188 wall........was going to use .120 wall but just not worth trying to weld 1/4" or thicker brackets to .120 wall and for what? a savings of maybe 20 lbs.

Getting ready to pull this off the Rotisserie and put it up on the chassis.


Now that is better

 

Looks good Tarry

 

Back to the Build....







TIME TO GET THIS 5.7 PREPPED TO GO IN THE CHASSIS..........I'LL PULL IT APART LATER, RIGHT NOW I NEED TO WRAP MY ARMS AROUND THIS WIRING HARNESS AND REMOVE IT SO IT DOES NOT GET IN THE WAY.


THE SMOG PUMP CAN COME OFF.....BUT THE AC I'M GOING TO LEAVE FOR NOW........MIGHT BE NICE HAVING AC IN MY CJ-6!

 

Yeah leave it! My a/c in my 5 was awesome in Moab!

 

Also...Where you marked Seal there on the cowl are you going to seam seam seal that area around the cowl to windshield stand? Whats your plan there?

Years ago I had my 5 tub Dustless water glass blasted and it removed most of the factory sealant there and I never replaced it. When I Repaint it I want to re fill it but I have seen guys use body caulk and it looks really bad after a few years.

 

Yep , that's a mental note..........I can see daylight through there....I'll let my painter figure out what he want's to use.

 

Looks like its going great Tarry! Decided against the 225 in favor of more power? :twisted:

 

My son and Dad are in the middle of figuring out the wiring on a 2005 5.3. What a mess.
Build looks good.

 

Yep , they can be............I've mapped out just about everything there and although I want to preserve it for now I probably will not use any of it......I think it's much easier to get an after market custom harness , chip and ECM built that just has what you need to control the TPI motor............really not that bad in cost either........About $600 for a simple system like a Jeep would need with a non-computerized Auto Transmission.

 

I have seen those and would go that route but my son is on a Budget Build on a 68 Chevy II.