F134 PCV valve question

Lately my F head has been using some oil. It has only about 6000 miles since a complete overhaul. I recently replaced the PCV valve, and the new valve is a two piece design with a seam in the center between the two pieces. Oil has been leaking out of this seam all over the side of the engine. I don't think any oil should be reaching the valve at all, because if it does, it would get sucked through the valve and burned. What would cause oil to travel up out of the valve cover to where the hose to the PCV valve connects, and how can I prevent this? Surely something is not right?

 

Crankcase oil should absolutely not be flowing through the PCV system.
Willys used different systems to ventilate the F134 crankcases.
Is your PCV system standard for 1967 vintage ?
Can you show pic of your particular PCV system ?
Or at least specify the plumbing arrangement that you have.

 

As far as I know it is the correct system for the year. A hose connects to the top of the valve cover and leads down to the PCV valve that threads into a brass distribution block on the intake manifold under the carb. Another hose runs from the air cleaner to the dipstick tube. I'll post a pic soon.

 

As indicated your PCV system seems to be correct.
If its correct the problem must be from excessive blowby.
Gaseous blowby comes via cylinder walls and or the valve stems.
I suppose the engine was precision rebored 6K miles ago and then re-fitted with O.S. pistons ?
Did you happen to install chrome plated piston rings ?

 

I had the engine professionally rebuilt, it was bored .030 over. All I know about the rings is that they are Hastings part #828, which I can't seem to find any info about. I also did a compression test recently, all cylinders read 90 psi, which seems fairly low? The manual calls for 130.

 

OUCH !
That's exactly what I was afraid of.
90 PSI indicates WAY too much blowby.
Same PSI as a completely worn out engine bore.
Yes 130 PSI is standard.
My rebuilds are always up near 140 PSI with a slight CR increase from decking the block .010 and shaving head down .010.

Either the bores are wrong, the rings are bad or the valve timing and or adjustment is way off.

How to check Hurricane valve timing without removing the front timing cover.

1st Remove all 4 spark plugs.
2nd Remove intake valve cover.
3rd Manually rotate crankshaft clockwise until the #1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke.
4th Continue to rotate crankshaft clockwise until timing marks align at #1 TDC.
5th Turn crankshaft back counterclockwise about 1/4 of a turn.
6th Estimate where 9* BTC is with the timing indicator.
7th Carefully observe the #4 intake valve while slowly turning crankshaft clockwise.
-The #4 rocker arm should begin to press down on the #4 valve at 9* BTC.
-Realize the #4 intake valve will begin to open at 9* BTC and will continue to open a little ATC.
-If you do not observe the #4 valve being slowly depressed (opened), the valve timing must be wrong.
-If the valve timing is wrong the front timing cover must be removed to align the crankshaft and camshaft gear dots.
8th After valve timing has been determined to be correct, it is fine to check the ignition timing.

"PRECISION VALVE ADJUSTING FOR HURRICANE ENGINES"

Adjust all tappets with the engine cold.
Set Intake tappets at .018".
Set Exhaust tappets at .016".

Use flat bladed feeler gauge and adjust for a snug feeler blade fit. (not loose and not overly tight)

Firing order = 1342 / Tappet adjusting order = 1342

From the front of the engine rotate the crankshaft clockwise till you see:

1) When the # 4 exhaust tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #1 exhaust tappet.
2) When the # 2 exhaust tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #3 exhaust tappet.
3) When the # 1 exhaust tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #4 exhaust tappet.
4) When the # 3 exhaust tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #2 exhaust tappet.

5) When the # 4 intake tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #1 intake tappet.
6) When the # 2 intake tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #3 intake tappet.
7) When the # 1 intake tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #4 intake tappet.
8] When the # 3 intake tappet is fully up. Now adjust the #2 intake tappet.

You can see when any tappet is fully up because it will soon go back down.
If you rotate the crankshaft too far simply turn it back to find the tappets highest position.

 

Alright, I will try this as soon as I get enough time. One question, could you clarify how to estimate where 9* BTC is?

 

Bear in mind compression values can have a great deal of variance, depending on the technique you use, or don't use, to get them.

 

Your F-134 should be equipped with one of two types of timing indicators.
One of them should be located on the timing cover.
There should also be a small notch on the crankshaft pulley.
Paint the small notch with white paint for visability.
The marker that relates to the notch will show TDC and will also show 5* BTDC.
From those two marks you can readily estimate 9* BTDC.

 

Ok, I looked at it a bit today, and it seems the timing may be off. I couldnt quite tell from my quick test when the valve began to open, but it reached full opening with the notch at about 3 o'clock, which is far beyond the indicator. It seems that this is so far off it wouldnt even run, but it seems to run okay to me.

 

Yes I suspect that your timing is off by 1 tooth of the cam gear.
I suggest that you carefully re-read and repeat the valve timing test.
The only way then is to verify is by removing the timing cover.
Then see: http://z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/index.php?showtopic=4125