Axle retention in the 10 spline Dana 44

Im about to tackle a rebuild of my 55 CJ5 rear. I am keeping it stock with the 2 piece taper shafts in 10 spline. My questions are these....

Given how much pressure it took to remove the hub and axle shafts, how is the shaft even retained in the carrier case gears? I know that later models used a C-Clip at the end of the shaft. Are these old shafts just held on with slight friction between the splines of the shaft and the splines of the spider gear? Im kind of concerned since it took a 10 pound slide hammer to remove the long side shaft. I attempted to re-install it just to see how easy it was to put back in...which I did but I could slide the shaft back out by yanking it on it by hand.

Also, the hub. As many of you know it took a **** ton of force with a 5 jaw puller to remove the hub. Do the hubs need to pressed back on as well? Or is this just because the hub as probably been on the shaft for 50+ years by heat, grime, and brake dust....

 

I don't know about your other questions,


that little key lock in the hub, (tapered piece of metal) I can't remember the correct name tonight. That piece will keep your hubs on. What you will do is when the shafts are in you will slide the hub on, then you will push the key lock in. Torque the castle nut, I can't remember the specs off the top of my head.

 

Yea about that key....after placing the hub back on the shaft i can easily push the key in. Maybe the key slot cut is supposed to be dry and not greased? The key was able to push in past the hub face. I could pull the hub back over the the shaft with the key in. Obviously the castle nut wasnt on but I would have thought the key (being tapered) would also serve to stake the hub tight against where it is supposed to seat.

Maybe im just over thinking all of this.

 

There is a bearing retainer plate that holds the shaft in. It's between the backing plate and housing. That is what holds your shaft in. If you look at the way the bearing is on the shaft, you'll see how it works. I think it is a better setup than the clips because if you break a shaft, at least the shaft won't slide out. The bearing cup has a snug fit into the housing. That was the resistance you felt. There are some shims there too.

DON'T use a jaw puller to remove the hub. It can bend the hub. There is a special puller to remove these hubs. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...0gqgjI7UIMeFG5Isc0Rz7k8AW0XoTWP_d4aAlRZ8P8HAQ

 

DON'T use a jaw puller to remove the hub. It can bend the hub. There is a special puller to remove these hubs. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...0gqgjI7UIMeFG5Isc0Rz7k8AW0XoTWP_d4aAlRZ8P8HAQ[/QUOTE]

Thats a pretty good price.

 

I do not use any lube between the hub and the taper on the shaft or the wood-ruff key. I want there to be 100 percent metal to metal capture between the two. I install the hub loosely on the taper and push the key into the slots. I then install the washer and nut and let the washer push the key and hub onto the tapered end of the axle. The nut is torqued to 150lbft.

 

Thanks for your help men. After I went and looked again, it makes sense how the retainer plate functions. I'll be sure to use the washer idea and torque to 150. And not sure why I said jaw puller. I used the 5 lug puller that I rented from NAPA. Might have to go ahead and buy one of those.

 

If you don't have one I'd highly recommend getting a FSM/TSM (Factory Service Manual/technical Service Manual)