Convert front and rear axle to disks

I have to replace the whole brake system on my 66 from it sitting for so long, To fix the drums it would need new lines, wheel cylinders shoes, and probably drums, so I'm contemplating just replacing the whole entire system with disks. My questions are, what do I use for the rear axle? What master cylinder should I use? I have a brand new stock one, but think it's time to upgrade if I go disk. I have a the 134 with a 27 up front and 44 in the back 1966. Thanks in advance for all the input, I will use focker's thread for the front probably. Also, I'm running KH 15x8's with 33x12.5's and plan on running a spacer so I should be ok with clearances of the wheels. I need a spacer cause the tired rub bad at lock. thanks, Geoffrey

 

You can actually use the same setup of chevy brackets and calipers, with 77-78 CJ discs on the rear as well, you just have to redrill the brackets.

As I understand it anyway, I think 47v6 did that setup.

 

I did do that setup. If you buy the aftermarket caliper mounts, they are already double drilled to clock the caliper how you like. The rear disk setup on the tapered axle D44 did not satisfactorily perform for me. There was some alignment issues or something that never quite worked perfectly for me. When I did the full float set up the brake performance issues went mostly away. What I gather is that I was missing something with the setup. either my caliper bracket/mount was not shimmed to allow perfect center running of the rotor in the pads, or there was movemnet in the bracket or another problem that i never figured out worked against me.

I know this conversion can and has been done, I just was not really happy with it. Its probably entirely my fault. I went with it because Rockauto was having a throw away price on calipers and pads and 11" stuff was sky high at the time. I went with what was cheaper.

The aftermarket master I got was for a 1970 cj5. they seem to not come with residual valves. Thats good. You have to use 2LB residual valves in line.

Remember, the rear disks do not have accommodation for emergency brakes, so you count on your d18 transfer case parking brake if you have that.

To do again, without the full float setup, I would put 11" drums in the rear with the emergency brake if you can find them.

R&P has a rear setup that had e brakes and disks i believe. They also have a couple kits for the front too. Honestly the front is not a big deal, parts are cheap, readily available and its easy.

Your hubs may need machining to allow a rotor to fit over them flush to the lug flange and that may need to be machined flat too. Some are fine.

 

I did the disc setup on the rears with gm stuff also. Everything work fine, it all bolted up with a problem and was easier that the front disc setup. I didn't redrill the brackets. I did use El dorado calipers and that was more trouble that it was worth.