Getting Hubs Tight On Tapered D44?

I installed new hubs a couple weeks ago then in the past couple days I was hearing some noise from the area. I think the nut torque should be 150lb. Then tighten or loose to the closest slot in the castle.

So the closest slot I ended up with loose nut and noise. The next slot I can’t get to with my breaker bar and extension. The Brake is on with transmission in gear, the wheel starts spinning on other side when I tighten.

What am I missing here?

 

Axle or hub worn? Bottoming out instead of wedging on the taper?

Had a similar issue on '34 Ford and I just shimmed the taper cone with some .002 shim stock. But I'm funny that way.

 

Do you have access to a big impact wrench? I might put a drop of oil on the back side of the nut too.
-Donny

 

Did you use something like a strip of shim or cut a cone shape? Shim stock from where? I’m not familiar.

 

The hubs are new so axle is likely the problem.
Would the axle in my ‘64 3B be the same? I’m not planning to use that D44.

 

Replacing axles is not what I was planning on doing today.

 

A tapered cone. Machine shop supply, precision thin steel, from my FLAPS.

For the record I'm not actually recommending this as a legitimate technique.

 

Gotch Ya!
Going for swap from spares I have first.

 

Another thought is to have all parts sparkly clean and polish up the mating surfaces with emery or crocus. With that try with the lube sliding faces, and then rather than shims, use emery or wet or dry to remove material from the shim/washer.

 

I once ran into a situation where the key would prevent the hub from seating correctly onto the axle. What was occurring was, as the hub was being installed, it would cause the key to slide to the back of the keyway and slightly up onto the taper at the back of the keyway. This prevented the hub from sliding far enough onto the axle to engage or seat correctly.

 

On a tapered axle/hub, always put the key in after the hub is on. It doesn't have to be tight, just most of the way on. If the key is in the slot first, the hub will cause it to ride up the ramp and split the hub.

Also, with the cotter pin, always torque to spec, then only tighten to the next slot for the pin (never loosen from specified torque).

 

x2.
I've learned this too.

 

I delayed working on the 5 today. I’ll check the keys again before I start pulling axles. Thanks for the replies.

 

Didn’t have big impact but I did put a dab of anti-seize on the threads and washer. The nut before just stopped at a certain point. After lube it just kept turning and getting tighter. Went out on sandy trail ride for a couple hours after and had no issues. Thanks Donny.

 

Great! The thing about tapered shafts is "Clean", there cannot be anything between the tapers, they rely on contact to hold. Glad you got it fixed.