Full Float Ford 9" Build

I didn't know about that. I just went online and ordered them. I can't recall where I bought them but it was about 8 months ago. FYI you can buy just the internal locking gear to convert a standard warn hub to 30 spline from RCV, but at $75 a pop, i just bought new warn hubs.

https://www.rcvperformance.com/30-spline-dana-44-300m-locking-hub-gear-upgrade.html

 

I did some poking around. I have warn 60165 conversion hubs. There is nothing on warns website for that part number. Maybe I bought old stock? They are still available on summit and Amazon. I should probably buy a spare set...

 

I love this. You installed a DRO on your mill? What brand and how was the installation? My mill is a very worn out ,old, manual bridgeport clone but I have seen DRO setups for like 1500.00. Thanks!

 

I am in the same boat. I have enco bridgeport clone, it has a little wear on ways but is in pretty good shape. I put this 2 axis DRO with glass scales on it a couple years ago:

2/3 Axis Digital Readout DRO TTL Linear Glass Scale Encoder for Milling Lathe | eBay

It works as well as any DRO I have used, it is more precise than I am and I haven't had any trouble with it. The dials work great and you can be very accurate with them, but if you are doing a job that requires going back and forth between coordinates, the DRO makes it much easier because you don't have to worry about backlash.

Most things I do could tolerate +/- .005" and these are accurate down to .0002", so plenty good for me. Glass scales are out of fashion because they can get dirty and stop working correctly and if you are in a high production shop with flood cooling they probably wouldn't do, but for a home shop I haven't had an issue. Worst case you have to clean them.

Best $170 I have spent in a while, thinking about getting a set for the lathe. How luxurious that would be!!

 

Installation was easy. I did fret about the correct length to get (you choose what length scales you need when you order) but after measuring a lot and reading what others had used I got it figured out. I can't recall the measurements but I would be happy to look up what I have if you need it.

Mounting isn't too hard. You just have to figure out the travel and get the scales centered and level. Then just drill and tap some holes and bolt them down. Took me a good afternoon, taking my time.

 

You got that for 170 bucks and it works? Seriously? I have at least .300 backlash the center of the travel... My Mill is a maxmill from 79 and abused pretty good..This seems like a whole lot easier than rebuilding the acme screws and nuts.

I will buy this right now at 170 bucks..

I fixed my crossfeed on my Clausing and its got .003 backlash now.. I can actually use the dials to make parts that are sometimes down to .0005 held in a collet. Its funny kind of because I used that wore out crossfeed to make one to replace it.

 

Wow! .300" is a lot. That must be hard to work with. Is the half nut loose? When i bought mine is had about .060 and with adjustments i got it to .020. Hard to imagine that much wear on the screw and half nut, but I am sure you have checked it.

Sounds like a good repair on the lathe! Mine is pretty clapped out but not bad enough to repair yet. Maybe if I have some extra time someday, lol!

Will your mill take Bridgeport parts? Mine sort of does, but it usually requires some tweaking on the size.

 

Ha, I haven't even measured the backlash. I just know it's so much that the dials are useless. The nut and acme thread are worn out. The nut wears but also the threads get thinner at the most used area, so backlash changes across the feed. I was going to replace it, but the bearings in the spindle have made quite a bit of noise for years. The pulleys have bits missing and the ways are worn out. Power quill feed works occasionally. There was actually some rust in the spindle bearings. I just keep running it and pouring oil into them. Gonna run it until it stops and think about a new clone. Brand new variable speed they are under 10 grand, delivered. Not cheap, but it will pay for itself in short order.

The lathe repair was under 100 bucks, so totally worth it. Its also pretty worn, but the reeves pulleys for the variable speed still work fine and it will do nicer work than I know how to do.

 

My calipers arrived today. After looking at the modifications i was going to have to do to make the drum brakes work which involved boring the backing plate, welding in a provision for the e brake cable and trying to find a drum that would fit. Then looking a bit deeper into the el dorado calipers I decided to try them out. The main issue seems to be the sensitivity of the adjustment for the ebrake arm. I had a similar setup on a vw once and it was a bit fussy when changing pads, it wasn't a big deal. We will see if i live to regret it. Now i am thinking about twin levers, one for each side for cutting brakes and even tighter front digs.

Ebay, $145 for the loaded pair with all brackets and short soft lines.

 

It was like Christmas today. The UPS came back with another box! Recieved the back brace I bought for the housing. Laser cut for $30. This is very unusual for me, I normally would fab this from scrap I have laying around, burning $50 in welding gas and wire plus another $200 in flap disks. Then 10 heavy coats of paint to disguise the mess!

Not a bad fit, just a little touch up needed.

Maybe some welding tomorrow!!

 

I have a set of those too that I got real cheap on rock auto, but they didn't come with the parking brake hardware. Finding that stuff is impossible by itself. Are you using Geo Tracker disks? The earlier ones use a different thickness disks. I think that's that I was told to use and bore out the center 1/8th or so?

 

Yeah, most of the reman calipers dont come with the brackets and lever. I was glad when I found these.

I am not sure on the disks, they look like they might fit the normal ford disks that i run on the front but i have to measure them.

 

No real progress but I have been measuring and reading and looking up specs on parts and wringing my hands.

The calipers I bought are the later "metric" calipers with the 5" spread on the mounting holes. These take a 1" thick rotor.

The standard ford rotors that normally go with these hubs are 1.185", will not fit without modification. The earlier el dorado calipers pre 1980 are on a 7" spread on the mounting holes and fit a 1.205" thick rotor. So they will work with the ford rotors but are close about double the price. But my caliper brackets would probably work although the offset may not be correct, I would need to measure the big calipers to know for sure. So I could return the calipers I have and buy the pre 1980 calipers, use the ford rotors and stock caliper brackets (assuming they line up). This will probably cost me $150-200 more, may or may not have to make or modify a caliper bracket.

Or I can use the calipers I have and use CJ7 front rotors which are .815" thick, a bit thin but I think they would work. I would have to make a mounting bracket for the caliper which is pretty simple but will take some effort. I will have a CJ7 rotor here in a few hours and I will see how it looks.

I looked at a lot of other rotors last night. Tracker rotors are even thinner at .670". I didn't see any others that were close out of the box.

 

Did you look at the Dodge Ram rotors (1500 I think)? I had a set of calipers and rotors that worked well on the axle, but ended up being too big diameter to fit my caliper inside my 15" wheel. Not sure what size wheel you are running but it's another option to look at. They were pretty thick but I can't recall how thick.

I ended up using front rotors from a Suzuki Grand Vitara which are .875" and fit inside my 15" rim.

 

Oh... maybe that's all pointless, I missed the e-brake part

 

I looked at the dodge stuff, rotors too big at 13" for my old slot mags. I did think about running regular front calipers and the a t-case parking brake, but i like having the e brakes at the wheels.

I am returning the small Eldorado calipers and getting the older large calipers that will fit the ford rotor. Problem solved...until the next one that pops up.

 

Finally got all of my brake parts together (and returned all the stuff that didn't work). Here are the early el dorado calipers on the bracket.

Set up to weld the back brace on. Did a little grinding to improve fit. I then put heavy tack welds on the corners. I checked the alignment with the bar and flanges and the passenger side end was off by .0625". So I cut the tacks on the outer end, pass side and clamped down both ends putting about .125" preload on the housing and re-tacked the end. After cooling I released the clamps and it settled into straight. Both flanges go in the tubes with ease! Now I have to weld the entire thing, hopefully it won't move too much. I will do small sections at a time letting it cool in between.

 

Patience is a virtue and I am not a virtuous man This couple inches of weld at a time with cooling in between is killing me...I just want to burn the whole thing in. Staying straight so far, halfway there..almost.

 

Did some CAD (cardboard aided sided design) and cut the top truss from some 2x3, .120" wall box tube. Needs a bit more ginding for the fit but getting close.

I am nervous about welding on it, it moves pretty easily. After the back brace, even with clamping in .125 of preload the entire time I was welding it still drew it up .020". I did another heat shrink on it and got it straight again. Hopefully this top truss wont move it too much. I think the housing is stronger in that position, but I am still going to tack it with clamped down.