Fino's Sbc Build

All 16 valves have been hand lapped....its mostly the #3 cylinder that is a problem in terms of getting decent valve seats. I feel like if I lap them anymore, I am going to cause a problem with the valves themselves. And I would possibly consider new exhaust valves...all the intake valves came out nice. But we are going to go with it as is....cleaned up and ran a tap through all the threads etc, and since I don't like painted gaskets, I am going to try painting as many of the pieces individually as I can each step of the way before assembly.


after getting back from Moab next week, will try to re-assemble the valve train with new valve seals etc...then I can think about the bottom end (the timing chain looks pretty loose to me?).

 

yup...once it starts, there is no reasonable place to stop until its all redone....so not going to start. it will run well enough as is....

 

Finished putting the valves and springs back in the heads...guess I could put the rocker arms on now as well, but seems its much easier to access the head bolts for mounting back to the block without them...so about to put these aside for a bit and get the bottom end cleaned up and ready...

I used these umbrella seals for intake valves:


and these for the exhaust valves:


Put o-rings on the second (lower groove) for all the valves, and then put the retainers in the upper groove with the help of a valve spring compressor:


Finished up:

 

So the question now...what are the next steps? Time to work on the block and bottom end.....I pulled the oil pan, timing cover etc....
It is only a 2 bolt main:


I am thinking I should pull the main bearing caps and take a look?....if those look ok, then leave the crank in place as well as the connecting rod, pistons etc...I'd like to replace the RMS of course....What to do with the oil pump?

Here is the timing chain....Its the plastic/nylon coated gear teeth ...I guess my first thought was that is seems too loose? Have to research that.....




No current intention to pulll the camshaft at this point, but I will inspect the lifters to see how much wear they show....I'd like to start degreasing and cleaning a bunch of the block, but am concerned about using the typical harsh cleaners with the camshaft and camshaft bearings in place?

 

Is it possible to check the rod bearings without pulling the pistons?

 

Here is I think a decent budget replacement - single tooth style - think this should work for me:
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Here is a double tooth style...probably not worth it for my purpose:
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

My original plan was just to do a check on the bearings with a side thrust first, then pull and check caps.

 

Got all the lifters out - that was little bit more of a pain than I expected....the bottoms were not mushroomed or anything (although at first I was worried) - just needed quite a lot of penetrating oil to free stuff up. The shape of the bottom of the lifters seems very nice - most seem like they haven't seen much wear at all. There are a couple that might be concerning as there is some corrosion on the bottom of the lifter - better to replace or leave as is?



the bottom of #2 exhaust is the one that is most concerning....the dark is corrosion into the polished/chrome coating....

 

There are no flattened cam lobes...
Considering the shape of the heads/valves, and no machine work being done to anything, I don't see how a new cam is worth it? Wouldn't new cam bearings need to installed by a shop as well? Remember, the plan here is basically buying a junkyard engine and just trying to get it to run for a bit.