Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Rodney, Jan 9, 2021.
Nice work. It's looking real good.
Thanks for the complement. I got a start on the Final assembly today. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the firewall and square filed it to fit the YJ throttle cable and throttle.
I then mounted the brake and clutch hanging pedal assy I built back in Feb???
It has bronze bushings and grease fittings on both pivots with a brake light switch built in.
I then mounted the 7" power brake booster and master cylinder along with the clutch master cylinder.
I had an old battery tray that was in good condition, so I sand blasted it and painted it. I didn't like just the bottom strut with one bolt supporting it, so I made up two triangle side supports with a flange for the tray to bolt to and also a flange to bolt to the firewall. All in all it[s held on to the firewall with 11 grade 5 1/4" bolts. The 6 on the inside where the battery will sit are counter sunk philyps head with star washers.
The 25 ft roll of brake line and 16 fittings I ordered on the 16th showed up today. ONLY 13 days from So Cal. to Nor Cal. GO FED EX.
The brake line kit showed up today 13 days from So Cal to Nor Cal. Fed Ex is right on top of things it spent 5 days in Sacramento.
I had picked up a pair of Wilwood 2 psi residual pressure vales for disc brakes on Facebook Marketplace for $5.00
So I made up short lines and mounted them under the master cylinder and clamped them together with 2 single bolt clamps.
Then ran the lines from the rear rubber flex hose along the frame up to where the master cylinder will be and left extra line just in case I can't read a tape measure. I used more single bolt clamps along the way,
I then made up the lines from the front rubber flex hoses to the junction block and then under the steering shaft missing all the P/S hoses and fuel lines.
I'm still waiting for a roll over check valve to go in the gas tank vent line and then I can mount the tub.
I dug the headlight buckets out of a parts bin today. I don't think they have been touched by human hands for 65 years. Once I pulled the sealed beam retainers off and removed the adjustment cans, I found a world of mouse nest inside.
It's amazing how much better some things look after comeing in contact with High Velocity/High Pressure sand and a little VHT aluminum paint.
I buffed out the stainless retainers . Then went after the Chrome rings with steel wool and chrome polish. The grille assembly went well, most of the screws were original stainless and now that it's together I like the LED Turn Signal/Running lights better than at first.
I might even add one of these light bars up front on the diamond plate valance behind the front bumper.
I got the wiring done on the dash today. My dash was so full of holes from the PO, that I skinned a new piece of sheet metal over it. And then mounted a GPS 3 3/8" speedometer, 6 gang rocker switch panel, four gauges an ignition switch, a momentary dual pole dual throw toggle for the turn signals and a power outlet.
From the back side you can see how bad the original dash was.
5" by 9" speaker hole, odd radio cutout and a dozen toggle switch holes..
The new switch panel is wired from this mass of multi colored noodle going through the driver side of the firewall to the new 100 Amp Buss ATC fuse panel
On the passenger side there is just as much of a maze of wires that will got to another junction block to tie into the rear wire loom and the engine, ignition, starting solenoid , temp sender and alternator output.
The speedometer uses a GPS reciever that will mount on the top of the windshield frame and the wire will run up between the two pieces of glass.
I figure I'll have to set up the wire so it can slip in and out of the dash through a slightly large rubber grommet for when the windshield get laid down. I wired all six positions on the rocker switches to the fuse panel and also to the terminal block.
Right now only the Headlights, tail lights, dash lights, spot,fog lights and backup lights are wired, but I have three additional switches wired and three empty terminals for Heater, wiper, and ?????
My computer developed a Covid type Virus and had to be put down. I had a bit of a learning curve trying to get the pictures small enough to up load, But I think I finally got it sorted out.
Long story short, the body is on the frame and bolted down, all electrical is finished lights all work except for the Turn Signal flasher I bought just for LED's wont work. The brakes bleed out nice and quick with a good firm pedal.
The Clutch hydraulics gave me some fits till I discovered I had a bad AN4 stainless hose that was leaking and sucking air. I made sure to order one Made in the USA. I used semi load straps for fender and grille welting, and seat belt material folded around a 12 gauge insulated wire for the grille to hood pad. I bought 3/8" solid bar stock and turned one end down and threaded it 5/16" to fit a pair of Heim joints I had and threaded the other end 3/8"
[GALLERY=media, [GALLERY=media, 8527]20211102_135859 by Rodney posted Nov 4, 2021 at 8:39 PM[/GALLERY]
8527]20211102_135859 by Rodney posted Nov 4, 2021 at 8:39 PM[/GALLERY]
I got the new 3 row copper/brass radiator installed also.
All very nice work.
Sorry to hear about the computer.
I thought I was done with body work, sanding and paint. Then I found this thing leaning against the outside wall of the shop in the rain.
I brought it in a couple days ago to dry out. I stripped all the removable parts off of it to bead blast them.Today I got it sanded out taped and primered with Red Oxide.
I think I'll go with a Satin Black till spring. If I don't like it, then I'll re-paint it with the Gun Metal Grey.
It's not a 1956 CJ5 windshield. Maybe M38A1. Anyone out there know for sure??
Fired up the wood stove in the shop this morning and got 3 coats of Black Engine Enamel rattle canned on the windshield frame. My son said he'd come by tomorrow and help my set the windshield and hood.
My son was able to help today. We pulled the paper and tape off the windshield.
Added a thin film of grease to the hinges and taped the cowl and fenders to protect the paint.
The windshield went on easy with help and I bungied it to the roll cage. I don't need any accidental whoops at this point in the build. The hood set down and I did a final adjustment on the grille and hood.
, I still need to come up with or make a prop rod for the hood.
Next is priming the oil pump, installing the distributor and carb, and then radiator hoses. It's getting close and starting to look less and less like a Basket Case.
Just small stuff today, Wire loom to the front for the LED Light Bar. I laid on my back in the floor and wired in a loom for the heater that I don't have yet. I then Bead Blasted a few last minute small parts and painted them
The biggest task was taking apart the Holley 600 4 barrel. I don't know why I did. It looks like new inside but has set for 2 years. I mounted the carb with a new phenolic block, and spent way too much time on the cable bracket. I used a Wrangler floor pedal and cable that was about 3 ft long. it goes all the way around the front of the engine and pulls forward. I could have cut it up and used a really short run, but it would have had a couple of tight bends. The way it is, it pulls nice and smooth and gets full throttle.
A couple months back I pulled the rear side facing folding Jump Seats out of the Rover Donor car. I tried fitting them in the CJ5. There was so much junk involved in the convoluted way they folded, that I threw them back in the Rover and went on to other things. Yesterday I pulled them back out and stripped everything off of them . I decided to try a simple dual angle aluminum brackets that allow the back rest to still fold down. I had a 6"x8" 1/4" wall aluminum square tube that I picked up salvage while doing the floors. I cut a paper pattern and transferred it to the aluminum in four places.
I used a 4 1/2" cutoff wheel and made four copies. After checking the fit[GALLERY=media, [GALLERY=media, 8572]20211115_121222 by Rodney posted Nov 15, 2021 at 6:30 PM[/GALLERY]I drilled the holes and bolted the seats together and then bolted the aluminum bracket to the diamond plate back wall, welded in
I mounted the Rover seat belts while I was at it and it's good to go.
I still don't see any good way to mount shoulder straps in the back so lap belts will have to do.
I did call O-Reillys today and order a can of VHT Vinyl Dye in Charcoal to match the VW Pissant front leather bucket seats I picked up at Pick N Pull half off sale. $34.00 out the door for both.
I haven't posted much lately. Been busy with family matters, Thanksgiving, Birthdays and Christmas. But today was a Milestone. IT RUNS. I finally got the correct starter, and it fired right up. No funny noises, no overheating, good oil pressure. The clutch works smooth and the tranny shifts well. At least in first and reverse. and the brakes work in the shop.
This 5.0 roller Mustang engine raps pretty good, it might even be a keeper.
Woohoo!!! Congrats, that's a big milestone! I'm right behind you, on my way to advance auto to get some rubber line to connect my hard fuel lines
I used VHT Vinyl Dye on the back Jump Seats out of the Land Rover. The Dark Charcoal came out pretty close to the VW Pissant seats.
Steering column is back in, and Power Steering is working. Just a few more details left to do.
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