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'72 Ford Bronco Build;)

Discussion in 'Quitters' Club' started by Dne007, Jul 19, 2021.

  1. Oct 4, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

    Cypress, Tx
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    Hi guys,I don't know how anyone could setup a ford 9 without this tool! I have flipped it at least 20 times trying to set this thing up and I'm still not a 100%. I've set the pinion up with a solid spacer with the proper preload, so that wasn't so bad.

    [​IMG]

    This is going to have to do, I've gone both ways, more and less shims and this seems to be about it.
    [​IMG]

    And the coasting part(just learned about the terminology from a youtuber.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Then, on my '67 mustang, the flaming river gear finally died from rust from Harvey, so I bought a Unisteer rack and it's not just bolt it up by any means. But I think I'm grasping it. I'm going to go ahead and remove the other header and clean em and repaint. The main problem I didn't take in consideration is the eccentrics to set the camber is behind it with a large access hole which really doesn't line up. I'd have to drop the rack to get to the adjusters~ gag, but luckily I had adjusted the camber recently. Still waiting on a double d shaft to make the beeline to the steering column. I do like the power steering pump which came with it
    [​IMG]

    The new power steering pump:) Gosh I hope it works!
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Oct 4, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Marysville, WA
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    Thats not the worst tooth pattern I've ever seen. In fact, it's better than most.
     
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  3. Oct 4, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    OMG, you have made my day! :bananatool:

     
  4. Oct 4, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Marysville, WA
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    I mean, sure, you could probably spend the next three days tearing your hair out, and get it even closer to perfect, but that pattern? Bolt the pig back into the housing, fill it with oil, and go on your merry way.
     
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  5. Oct 5, 2021
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    It looks good but perhaps a tad high. I would like to see the pattern under more pressure.
    Lock the bottom lip of your housing in a vice. Shove a pry bar between the ring gear and the housing to provide drag, use the socket or prybar and u bolts to rotate the yoke, and run another one.

    If you haven't done it already, you will need to align the drivers side carrier axle splines so you can install the axle. This is usually done with the carrier out, but can be accomplished with everything installed.
    Install both axles. Rotate the passenger side till you can get the drivers axle to seat completely. It is easier to do on the bench but can be accomplished in the rig as well.

    Don't forget to inspect the pinion housing O ring to insure it isn't hard or damaged (it should have been removed to set the pinion depth) .
     
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  6. Oct 5, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Ok Jeepdaddy, I'll play with it a little more. I've ran out of the mustard sauce(yellow marker), they only supplied a little of it. I'm in a good situation to work on it and the time would be now. I had already aligned the splines unless they can become out of alignment, but is easy enough to check. As for the pinion o-ring housing, I hadn't installed the new one as I've been pulling the housing out to change shims.

    I'm a little pee-brained on this kind of work for some reason, just doesn't capeesh. I wish I had just bought a new chunk. However, I'm here now and I'll see it through.
     
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  7. Oct 5, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Not long ago, I was wondering how to torque the bolts on the Ring gear as it's near impossible to hold the darned thing, I found a youtuber showing how he does it. When I had it with the bolts upwards, the clutches slipped a little and I flipped it as in the picture and did it upside down and worked fine. So when I went to place the axle spline in for that side, the two gears were off , so I played with it and figured out how to "re-align" those gears. I can see now how it could be performed while in a vehicle.
    In the meantime, I'm waiting for the gear marking "paint", it's quite messy, or I'm quite messy with it :rofl:
    Oh, the carrier gears in this pic were the wrong ones, they fit, but the circumference was too large and had to remove those :mad: and install the correct ones, didn't cross my mind until I went to set the carrier in place :shock:

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Oct 5, 2021
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    Make sure you take a hard look at the splines on the drivers axle. Worn Ford trac lok's shift all the engine torque to the inner axle gear on that side. This can lead to wear, bluring, and stripping. It isn't uncommon to have a Bronco immobilized by this (much like an AMC 20 stripped hub).
     
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  9. Oct 6, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Thanks JD(jeepdaddy),
    The first axle end here is the long axle and is obviously worn and even when putting an old gear on it, it wobbles pretty badly; and even though I know I don't drive my vehicles hard, could present a problem down the road(literally) :lol: Then thinking about the size tires which will be on it, amazing these don't strip down at all!

    [​IMG]



    Below: Maybe I could get away with using the shorter axle? or is this one of those things that it's best just to get it over with and buy both? Which I'm leaning towards :whistle:
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Oct 6, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    They're not hideously expensive. Although they're not cheap. I'd get some good Chromoly replacements.
     
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  11. Oct 6, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Such a nice day :flag:, a little warm, but low humidity so at least my hair isn't frizzing out!! :bow: While waiting for a bunch of parts I decided to spend some time on my ERS, that's engine run stand :blah:, I had bought some inexpensive gauges, but only the oil gauge is useful, I didn't pay attention that the Volt meter was a amp gauge, then the water temp won't work with my intake manifold! :cry:. Then I just ordered a 3" in-dash tach for the larger spot on the "dash panel", but it's getting there. Still need to clock the alternator, but that's not anything to write about. I had a spare ignition switch. Amazing how much work goes into an ERS :crazy:
    me of course;) :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Oct 6, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    How about someone draw me up a simple wiring schematic to start and run this thing? :whistle:
     
  13. Oct 6, 2021
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Blind and Dirty 2020 Sponsor

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    Looks like you may have to stand in the exhaust blast to start/stop that rig. Not the end of the world unless it's spitting fire and other nasty stuff. And spitting fire could really happen with just headers and an unknown/untuned engine.
     
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  14. Oct 6, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    When I go to start it, it will have the entire exhaust system on it, It will just have to be supported. Wouldn't be the first time I've had a ball of flame pop up at me! lol The ignition is on the engine side, not the back side, so I shouldn't be in the way of the exhaust~ If I'm unhappy, I can always change it around, but this seemed to be the most logical for the moment;) But thank you for opinion; always appreciated!! ;)

     
  15. Oct 8, 2021
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Member

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    Replace the worn axle. This is the problem with the trac lok. A used axle out of an open diff will do. Tom's or Jeff's will be familiar with the problem and should have one in stock. Be prepared to pay a premium for it.

    As for the ignition, points style wiring is simple.
    Bolt the solenoid anywhere on the engine (need ground).
    Attach the + battery to one solenoid large lug, the starter to the other.
    Attach the - cable to an engine ground.

    Attach a battery feed to the battery stud on your switch.
    Attach the dist wire to the - side of the coil.
    Attach the + side of the coil to the run side of your switch.
    Attach the start side of switch to the S lug on the solenoid.

    Prime your carb.
    Crank/start the engine using the switch.

    Don't forget to cap your oil line or you will be painting the walls.

    It's too bad you have the engine ready. A swap to a 351W motor is simple and provides gobs of low end torque.
     
  16. Oct 8, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Thank you jeepd! Thank you for heads up on the wiring! I kind of knew, just needed reassurance;)

    As for this "newer" engine that I bought during that big bunch of parts I bought, I'm a little confused on the engine. The seller wrote me to inform me that the engine is wired (firing order) as a windsor engine. IT does have roller lifters and rockers. Can a genuine 302 be wired as a windsor? How would I identify the engine if it is a Windsor? Don't forget, I have the engine which came with my Bronco(302) and the engine I bought (below).
    I'll be back, have to return a part that I didn't use;)
    dne' ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Oct 8, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    The 255/260/289/302/351W are all what are called the "Windsor" family (there might even be a couple other displacements in there, but for most purposes, 289/302/351W are the only ones you need worry about).

    Now, the only reason that the 351 gets the W in common nomenclature, is due to the fact that ford built three different engines displacing 351 Cubic Inches Displacement. 351W/351C/351M (Windsor/Cleveland/Modified(Although this is argued about too, if it actually stands for Modified)) For the most part, these engines are completely not interchangable, hence the designators.

    Now. As to the firing order. I don't fully understand the engineering reasons behind it, but the early 302's (for the purposes of brevity, I'm going to generalize a little bit) used a firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, and that covers *basically* any stock 289, or any 302 that came from the factory with a flat-tappet camshaft.

    351W's always had the firing order of 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, from the day they were first built, until the day they quit building them, whether they were flat tappet, or roller tappet engines. Starting in 1982, Ford started putting the 302HO in the Mustang, which used the 351W firing order, and a roller cam. I don't actually know when the Bronco/F-series got upgraded to roller cams, but I do know my 1989 F250 with a 302 was still a flat tappet cam, and used the older non-HO firing order.

    So to summarize, in the most brief way: 351W and Roller Cam 302's use 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, Flat Tappet 302's use 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
     
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  18. Oct 8, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    I could never repeat that Faulken! That was a fabulous explanation that I can almost understand :crazy:, so you pulled this information from you head o_O
     
  19. Oct 8, 2021
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    So which is he better engine, the Windsor or the Cleveland?




















    :twist:
     
  20. Oct 8, 2021
    Dne007

    Dne007 Member 2020 Sponsor

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    All I know is the Windsor is a narrower engine whereas the Cleveland has the cant type valves? That's it, about all I know except what Faulken said;)
     
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