Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Buildflycrash, Oct 27, 2021.
What is the best technique for splitting these rear body seams?
There's a special type of drill bit called a "spot weld cutter". These aren't perfect, after using one to cut the spot welds inevitably there will still be some weld around the hole but a chisel will usually pop the seam apart without too much difficulty.
My buddy put one of those bits into his thigh when he was doing body work years ago at a ford dealership. They definitely work better on the welds.
I have some of those but most of these seams don’t have access for a drill.
cut off wheel . sacrifice one side or other replacement panel needed
X2 on the cut off wheel. Cut it close to the seam, then you can get access.
I've pretty much disassembled a couple of tubs with these cutters- wasn't fun, wasn't quick but I figure if they could get access with spot welder to make the welds then you can get access with some sort of drill to cut them.
I've used a right angle drill attachment to get into tight areas.
They make air chisel bits designed for splitting spot welded panels. I have used one of these a number of times for such as this, it is fast and less work, but it is not as clean a method as drilling out the spot welds, and usually will cause some distortion which will require some hammer and dolly work on the keeper panel.
Yes. A die grinder works too. Grind away the welded steel on one side.
Couple tools I find that helps a lot - also did spot weld cutting....
Body Panel Knives
Am I the only one who does it the easy way by using a plasma cutter and cut the spot weld right out? Fast and easy, plus you get a hole to weld through when the new piece is put in place.
Keep meaning to get one of those.
This is my go-to for stuff like this.
I use Blair annular cutters. Look up Blair spot weld cutter. These work really well and stay sharp for a long time. I have shattered one, but these are the best method I've tried. They can be had in various diameters. I usually use 5/16" or 3/8" depending on size of the spot weld. You do have to grind the center nub off the inner piece if thats what you're saving.
X2. I've had good luck with a combo of spot weld cutters and one of these knives.
I bought a set of Hougen cutters that I like. I ruined a couple of annular cutters by not ensuring that I had a good pilot hole in the center of the spot weld - so I would say that this is worth doing slowly and carefully. Tap a good indent in with a punch, then drill a recess at the right diameter for your annular cutter spring pin.
X2- it takes a lot of time but if you're re-using the body parts it's really the best way. 90% of the welds will be easy to find & cut, it's the remaining 10% that are the time killers.
Got a new one ordered for work, the old one is a Miller, can't remember the number..........
It's 20 some years old,the size of a mig welder that age and only cuts 1/4...3/8.....
The new one is the size of small suitcase and supposedly will "burn" through 1 1/8 I think it is....
Not supposed to have any trouble with 7/8''.
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