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Need Help, 225 With Hei No Spark

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 44bz, Nov 21, 2021.

  1. Nov 21, 2021
    44bz

    44bz Member

    Oregon City OR
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2018
    Messages:
    82
    I’ve been reading and reading threads and not finding solutions to my problem. This 225 is completely rebuilt, my 2a is finished, and I can’t get it to start.

    i have a crt eBay hei with 8mm wires and plugs gapped to .045 (off the top of my head). EZ wiring harness. 60 amp delco 3 wire alt. Brand new optima red top. Offy 360 intake with brand new Holley 390 carb.

    ive followed the hei install instructions - tdc on #1, vac advance pointed at radiator, rotor pointing to #1 terminal with #1 terminal set at first post to the right of the battery plug. The battery plug on the distributor is connected to the EZ wire labeled “coil” which runs back to the fuse panel. The coil fuse is good.

    i know I have fuel to the carb. I used a continuity tester to check for power to the distributor. The motor cranks strong but that’s it, doesn’t try to start at all. I swapped in a spare coil from another crt distributor but no change.

    I’ll be the first to admit I’m no mechanic so any help is greatly appreciated. I just don’t know what’s wrong or what to check at this point.

    any ideas?
     
  2. Nov 21, 2021
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman

    Maryland
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    Mar 23, 2008
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    1,476
    Are you at #1 Tdc compression and +12v ignition sw in the on position? Pic please of distributor
     
  3. Nov 21, 2021
    dnb5853

    dnb5853 Member 2021 Sponsor

    Grand Mesa, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2006
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    762
    Are you getting spark?
    I had a helluva time with mine a few years back, because the HEI coil was bad.
    It bench tested good, but I replaced the coil and it fired right off.
    Make sure you are using high quality components!
     
  4. Nov 21, 2021
    44bz

    44bz Member

    Oregon City OR
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2018
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    Here’s the distributor. I have #1 at first post to the left of the battery terminal from this orientation then moving clockwise 6,5,4,3,2 and back to 1.

    i swapped the coil with another one, lubed the rubber washer with dialectic grease and reassembled. Same issue.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Nov 21, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2021 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    Jan 22, 2014
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    I had problems with a rotor, the center tang was bent enough to not make good contact. Also, be sure you are getting 12 volts to the dist. from the ignition switch.
     
  6. Nov 21, 2021
    44bz

    44bz Member

    Oregon City OR
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2018
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    I'll check the rotor tang, you never know I suppose. I still need to confirm 12 volts, I'll get on that. If I'm not getting 12 volts to the distributor, what would cause that?
     
  7. Nov 21, 2021
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman

    Maryland
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    Mar 23, 2008
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    1,476
    Need to make sure you are #1tdc compression or you are 180° out.
     
  8. Nov 21, 2021
    dnb5853

    dnb5853 Member 2021 Sponsor

    Grand Mesa, CO
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    Aug 13, 2006
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    Make sure there is NO resistor on the line to the distributor power feed. The breaker point dizzy had such, but that must be removed for the HEI modification.
     
  9. Nov 21, 2021
    44bz

    44bz Member

    Oregon City OR
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2018
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    Definitely no ballast resistor. The jeep had no wiring when I started (almost 4 years ago) so I started over with an EZ wiring harness.
     
  10. Nov 21, 2021
    dnb5853

    dnb5853 Member 2021 Sponsor

    Grand Mesa, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2006
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    These are tough to diagnose without being there.
    I'll ask again: Have you checked to see if you're getting a spark (at any time on any wire)?
    Maybe check the pick up coil resistance.
     
  11. Nov 21, 2021
    44bz

    44bz Member

    Oregon City OR
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2018
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    Feel free to come on over:D I tried the screwdriver test at the end of the plug wire and got nothing...
     
  12. Nov 21, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2021 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    Jan 22, 2014
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    Bad ignition switch, or wiring. And make sure the 12 volts stays while cranking. If suspect, you could hot wire it from the battery.
     
    Lockman likes this.
  13. Nov 22, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Fuel and spark. If the distributor is installed and turning with the engine, and there is 12V fed to it, it should make spark. Hot wire the distributor, crank it and see if you get spark at the plugs. Fuel and spark.
     
    dnb5853 likes this.
  14. Nov 22, 2021
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    If you have voltage to the distributor, and no spark, I'd suspect a bad module.
     
    ETZFAM and dnb5853 like this.
  15. Nov 24, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Did you ever confirm you are getting 12V to the coil? If not, wondering if you have a starter switch that requires a bypass wire from the starter to the coil when in the Start position, even if it's providing 12V in the Run position with a wire directly to the coil?
     
    Lockman and sterlclan like this.
  16. Nov 25, 2021
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2021 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    this, try a jumper to the coil feed straight from the battery to see.
     
    Lockman likes this.
  17. Nov 25, 2021
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    If out of time by 180 you'd at least be rewarded with occasional backfire. Keep your mush away from the carb, have extinguisher ready. If no backfire or puffs of smoke then I'd say you are completely lacking either fuel or spark. Do you smell raw gas after all that cranking? If not then:
    1. You have no fuel, or
    2. You have the 'rona

    The distributor rotates as helical gear meshes with cam gear so rotor may not be where you think. Apply 12v straight from battery and try again.

    Have you cranked with cap removed? Younare the rotor is rotoring?

    About extinguishers, you guys have some clean machines. Dry chemical extinguishers will put out the fire but ruin your Jeep. Corrosive stuff. Recommend one of those expensive halon-like extinguishers, backed up with a dry chemical.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2021
  18. Nov 25, 2021
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2021 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    TDC on "COMPRESSION" stroke was mentioned more than once, but I never saw a response from the OP.

    Another forum member had similar difficultly because he didn't understand that the piston comes up to TDC on compression, and again on exhaust.
     
  19. Nov 27, 2021
    44bz

    44bz Member

    Oregon City OR
    Joined:
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    Sorry, I've been out of town. I mentioned in the first post that I had it on TDC for #1 and should've clarified that I confirmed compression strike. I've been through the 180 out dilemma before so I know what that looks like, but I'm not getting anything - no sputter, no backfire. There's just cranking. Someone asked about fuel and yes I have fuel to and in the carb. It's literally not igniting. I'm going to try the jumper from battery to coil pack and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll report back this weekend.

    Zack
     
  20. Dec 29, 2021
    44bz

    44bz Member

    Oregon City OR
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2018
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    I kinda took a break from this, but am back to it. I made some progress, but still can't get it to start. I discovered I had no spark. The culprit was the wire that connects to the battery terminal on the coil not fully contacting the pin inside. So the coil wasn't getting any power. Fixed that and unfortunately it still won't start.

    I confirmed the distributor was set to TDC on the compression stroke - used heater hose stuffed into the #1 spark plug hole with cellophane taped over the other end, watched it get sucked into the hose then ballooned out of the hose, and on the compression stroke at TDC the rotor was pointed just ahead of the #1 terminal on the distributor.

    I replaced both the coil and ignition module with new Napa units, one then the other, just for good measure. Spark plug wires are all where they should be. I used a spark plug tester and confirmed that all six plugs are firing. The fuel pump is pushing fuel to the carb and I confirmed fuel is squirting. It's a brand new Holley 390cfm.

    After all that I basically have the same symptoms - cranks strong but that's all. It does make kind of a chugging sound that wasn't there before, but it sounds like compression not like fuel igniting or anything.

    Thanks for the advice so far. What else should I be checking at this point?
     
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