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Dana18 Advice

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Cj5dale, Mar 24, 2022.

  1. Apr 10, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Whoohoo! :bananatool:
     
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  2. Apr 10, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    Maybe you can salvage the bolts from the one I have if you are lucky.
     
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  3. Apr 10, 2022
    skipilot

    skipilot New Member

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    If you can’t find bolts with the right grip length (the unthreaded shank), see if you have a general aviation airport nearby that has a parts store. The standard AN hardware is generally made in grip length increments of 1/16” with just the right amount of thread for a washer and locknut. For example, if you asked for a AN6-16 bolt it would be 3/8” diameter (the 6 in the AN6 is the diameter in 16ths) with a 1 inch non threaded shank portion . Standard AN hardware for most sizes has a 125,000 psi tensile strength, a bit better than grade 5. I think that would be fine for the application with any stock Jeep engine. If you need stronger, you would want a NAS bolt, they are 160,000 psi tensile, a touch above grade 8.
    Tim
     
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  4. Apr 13, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    I finally got the e-brake drum removed.

    upload_2022-4-13_21-24-36.jpeg
    It appears the drum is worn where the bolt heads are that allows them to spin. I’d like to take duffers suggestion of welding a small bead on the bolt head to keep it from spinning.

    Here’s a pic of the part that goes through the drum that the driveshaft bolts onto.
    upload_2022-4-13_21-27-11.jpeg

    upload_2022-4-13_21-29-5.jpeg

    even though it looks like there is a ridge worn into the metal, I can take my fingernail across it without feeling a ridge.

    Do you think it will be ok to reuse?

    I was also able to pull the damn seal after a frustrating bit of time using a $15 seal puller from the auto store

    upload_2022-4-13_21-30-51.jpeg

    So here’s what I’m currently looking at
    upload_2022-4-13_21-32-26.jpeg

    it’s a mess
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2022
  5. Apr 14, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    I would take some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and see if that will polish up. If it does, finish it with crocus cloth. If it doesn't, you either need to sleeve or replace it. If the latter, the only aftermarket version I would trust is BeBella's. Definitely not one of the non-fitting Kaiser Willys versions. The easy way to polish those is to use a D18 front output shaft for a manderl and chuck it in a lathe but drill press would also work. Otherwise, just put it in a vise and try to keep things even. There should be a few threads here on this topic.
     
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  6. Apr 14, 2022
    jeep peep69

    jeep peep69 Member 2021 Sponsor

    redding ca.
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    Seal removal tip. Use a sheet metal screw a couple inches long. I like to use a self tapping one. screw it through the seal and grab it with a pair of vise grips and pull it out .
     
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  7. Apr 14, 2022
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    That output flange looks like it will clean up fine with a little 800 grit or fine crocus cloth. Be sure to add a little sealant on the actual splines on final reassembly. These are known to weep/leak gear oil past the splines.
    Brake cleaner is a quick and easy way to clean up that typical oily mess.
    -Donny
     
  8. Apr 14, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    Thanks for the suggestions on polishing the flange. I haven’t tried polishing it yet but I’ll take your all’s advice and give it a shot.

    I did get the brake and backing plate off.

    here’s what I saw. It’s a mess too…

    upload_2022-4-14_17-34-43.jpeg

    Zoomed in on inspection plate
    upload_2022-4-14_17-35-27.jpeg

    Cleaned off that tag. Not sure what it means though. Is that a part number?

    upload_2022-4-14_17-36-43.jpeg

    looks like I need to replace the gasket around the inspection plate too. Also found oil leaking out of the bolts. The videos I’ve watched says I can put thread sealer on those.

    Not so sure about that shaft though. It looks a little leaky too but I’m not sure if that’s just drainage from the inspection cover or not
     
  9. Apr 14, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    Thanks for this tip. I wasn’t too impressed with the seal puller tool.
     
  10. Apr 14, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Some or all of that could be from the leaking rear seal that is getting flung up there from the brake drum. I think I would clean it up and see what happens after you get it back together and put a few miles on it. Just as easy to replace the cover gasket then if needed.
     
  11. Apr 14, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    Good point. That will be easier to check when the seal is replaced and everything cleaned.
     
  12. Apr 14, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    947384 is the Jeep Corp part number. The other is a Dana-Spicer internal number.

    This looks typical to me. The Novak intermediate shafts include an o-ring at each end. I don't recall whether the factory shafts do; suspect they do not.

    I recall these cases leak from everywhere that could possibly leak. Unlikely you will stop all the leaks without complete disassembly. Don't be disappointed if you seal up everything, put it together, and find someplace that still leaks.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2022
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  13. Apr 14, 2022
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    I know it seems like they endlessly leak, but with a careful following of the Novak instructions, I have gotten 2 cases to not leak, even with hard use.
     
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  14. Apr 14, 2022
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    USA
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    DeBella https://www.debellajeepparts.com sold me all the parts to replace ALL the components to rebuild as new, the shafts, gears etc of my D18. Buy everything from him. Great quality and a good business.
     
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  15. Apr 14, 2022
    timsresort

    timsresort Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor

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    X2. I have been buying military parts from him for 35 years. He also has a lot of stuff not listed, like the NOS Ben Hur trailer tail light brackets I got from him. Never hurts to ask, I found out.
     
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  16. Apr 14, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    As soon as I get everything cleaned up, I’ll get your all’s input for what parts I need and give them a call. Thanks for the reference.
     
  17. Apr 14, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    thanks for the info on the tag. And I agree about the leaking. This one seems to be seeping from a lot of places.
     
  18. Apr 16, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    Quick question.

    here’s a pic of the output shaft on my Tcase. While I was cleaning everything up, I notice this small divot (circled) in the housing where the oil seal goes. If you expand the pic you can see it much better.

    upload_2022-4-16_15-16-7.jpeg

    Is that an issue? Do I need to replace this part?
     
  19. Apr 16, 2022
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    I smear a thin coating of RTV in that area all the way around then install the seal. The RTV will fill that gouge. Make sure the seal bottoms out in the bore or it will hit the dust shield on the companion flange.
    If you decide to use a repair sleeve I can give you the Timken number for the kit. I buy them from Rockauto normally. I keep a couple on the shelf at all times but I’ve done a LOT of them in the past.
     
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  20. Apr 17, 2022
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member

    East Tn
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    Ready to order the gaskets and oil seal. Looks like debella’s seals and gaskets are quite a bit cheaper than Novak’s.
    So, I’m planning on calling debella’s tomorrow to place an order.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2022
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