Lifted Pictures

Thanks. I am trying to motivate you to start on your CJ-2a...lol. Other than the machine work, I have done all the work on this myself. A lot to modify and rebuild. Wiring, to brake lines and every nut bolt.
In the process of changing out the JAZ Baja bucket seats now. Going to Corbeaus. Considering doing the wheel house notch as I am 6ft 1". The swinging pedals put my knees up real high. I don't mind too much
but I am taking the tank out as I put a body mount under it and my body sits about 1/4-3/8" too far
to the drivers side. It would be a good time to do this mod. I have good friend that does sheet metal and could make what I need in 30 minutes. Used to do a/c work. Figure 16 gauge paint-lock metal.
Other changes at this time include adding a vacuum guage and AEM Wideband sensor to get the TA470 dialed in. I have already welded the bungs in the headers.If I can't get it to my liking, I may go to the Holley 390
and put the TA parts on it. Another option is to find a quadrajet from a 75-76 oddfire engine though they
are very scarce.
Then there is always fuel injection and the possibility of the electronics breaking. That could end in a bad way. Also will be changing my turn signal switch as the emergency flasher is not working and put in a new ignition
lock tumbler. Lots of other small projects for a vehicle with 213 miles on the clock.

Note: I received 1-2 1/2" and 1-3" u-bolt from BDS. Still does note correct the 2 1/4" problem. Still thinking about the 4" Superlift springs which will probably net about 3 1/2".
I have time to think about it. Sorry as I don't usually bring my problems here. Mostly just here for motivation! An engine picture to cheer up!

 

Super clean under the hood. Nice work.

 

Thanks again. I read your thread on your Dad's jeep. Pretty awesome old man. I picture your 2a as something like that.
Low and go. He has the same valve covers as mine. In the 70's they went for about $75.00 for the set. Summit lists
them now for $654. That is just crazy!

My Jeep picture was on the 2-1/2" BDS springs, 1'' over on the front shackles, 1" body lift and 33" tires measured with a
level on the top of the tire to the floor. The ground is sloped uphill so it is hard to tell the front droop.

 

Not quite as crazy as it might seem. According to my inflation calculator app $75 in 1975 is $400 today. But still…

 

Changed out my springs the last couple of days. BDS 2.5" lift from stock springs. Stock was 10 leaf front and back. Tires are 30 x 9.50. Left the stock shackles on for now. Before and after:




Worried about the angle. I measure 17 deg (20 - 3).

 

Looks nice

 

Looks good! Regarding the driveshaft angle...I have posted that I had a 1975 also. First Jeep and wish I had kept it. We have emissions here and at time I
was not sure about making changes to engine,exhaust, etc. Found out later, that 1975 falls into a grey area. Just a gas cap test and sniff the exhaust.
There are some hawks that like to look a little too close under the hood though. I have had as many as 3 inspectors eyeballing my stuff. 1967 is the
cutoff year and they only check vehicles in the metro area.
It was a Cali jeep but don't remember a smog pump. Did have all the vacuum porting and canister. It has been residing in my brothers backyard for 30 years
or so. One of the best jeeps made, IMO. With 2 1/2' lift, I carried a spare U-joint. Seems like the transfer case side gives out. Can't remember. You will here a need to
change before it breaks. Been there and would get about 5-6000 miles on them. The 304 might change that number. I got good at changing them on the curb.
Your front looks lower now in the front but no camber shims should be required with the Dana 30.

Recommend calling Tom Woods and talk with them. Cutting off your spring perches and weld them at the corrected angle and purchase a double cardan drive
shaft. I would not recommend a shim on the back... turn the axles if you want reliability. Woods are very helpful.

 

Why no shim? Good quality units are no problem. Some lift kits even come with them. Quality ones are steel and use the centering bolt to hold them in place. I do agree cutting and turning the axle is a better option but not everyone can do that. And not easy on a front axle in any case. A quality tapered shim set can be a good alternative for many.
I believe you mean caster, not camber. Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of the tire as looked at from the front or rear to simplify the description.
If you were changing u-joints every 5/6000 miles you had serious u-joint angle issues. I know people with shorter wheel base Jeeps and very short driveshafts who are getting 20/30,000 miles out of their u-joints and change them more for maintenance than anything else.

 

Tom Woods recommendation for geometry if you don't have double cardan, which is approximately what I have now.



With cardan, he indicates you should rotate axle up to eliminate angle at diff.

Tom's recommendation:
"There are other factors to consider though. Beginning with what you are willing to live with. Bear in mind that with a driveline pushed to this 15 degree limit you may notice a slight (slight can be a matter of definition) vibration on smooth highway at about 45-50 M.P.H. when you flutter the gas just right. Most people can live with this. When in doubt or if you are near this upper limit, I recommend that you install a double cardan (CV) type drive shaft."

Here, he recommends less than 15 degree. Another place in his web site he recommends less than 10. I think that 10 comes from other sources but that he has found that the 15 is acceptable.
I only have a few miles on it since lift installation but the only difference I notice is a light vibration when "fluttering" the gas.

So after reading all of this (https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles) , the alternatives I see are to rotate axle in order to lengthen u-joint life but possibly introduce more vibration or leave as is and have higher u-joint maintenance.

 

I can't argue with you on the hassle of turning the front axle and I did mean castor...it was late, so thanks for the correction. I agree with not turning the front and it should
not be necessary with the Dana 30 with a stock shackles unless there are driveabilty issues and the alignment shop recommends more castor. The front drive line angle not
being as critical and does not get as much. The Dana 20 introduces a more severe drive line angle than the Dana 18. I tried shims on the rear of the 75 but not a double
cardan [I was poor and married...lol]. The rear is easy to to turn so it is a question of why use a shim that is 3/4" to 1" on the tall end. Even a proper shim leaves less
protrusion of the center pin in to the spring perch. Blue seems to to be on the right track and Woods explains it very well. Anything else is just a bandaid.
Just posting my experiences and have much respect for your input. John

 

I found this pic of my previous jeep, '74 with probably 2.5" spring lift plus some shackle lift (?). Suspension was set up before I bought it. Along with a T19 which would create worse case than my current setup.
Ignoring the driveline, I noticed that it looks like it did have a shim. After buying a new driveline, I never had any issues with u-joints or vibration. Never put a lot of miles on it (mostly trails), so I can't say how long the u-joints last.

 

This is how it sat.

 

I see shiny stuff under there! Did it have 2 pumps and what caused the failure? Relocated gas fill neck for the tire carrier. I like it but like the Renegade more...
I did a/c, refrigeration and controls, too. Don't miss it either! Had to look up Pomologist.
Are both fields related?
John

 

It had two gas tanks (under driver also), so when I installed TBI I decided to have two pumps and filters in case of failure on the trail. Used an electric valve to direct fuel from and return to tanks. Location of pumps might have been better considering what that driveline might have done.

Driveline failure was a combination of things: #1 inexperienced driver! #2 mechanical clutch linkage. Clutch engagement would change from extreme top to bottom of clutch pedal depending on which tire was on a rock. Changed that to hydraulic and greatly improved control on difficult trails.

Pomology is the study of fruits and nuts. If you mean "both fields" as Pomologist and Jeeper being related: one might think that being on this forum might be the study of...
I sure have learned a lot on this forum, regardless.

Notice above, the little support from bumper to rack. The weight of the rack, tire, gas, and tools was crushing the body mounts. So when I fixed all the body mounts, I added these supports to prevent more damage.

 

Pomology is the study of fruits and nuts. If you mean "both fields" as Pomologist and Jeeper being related: one might think that being on this forum might be the study of...
I sure have learned a lot on this forum, regardless.

No. I meant the refrigeration/pomology connection. Your answer is still funny and may even apply...who else would do this to themselves though and if I
am reading the top of the Forum page correctly...there are 289 members that have outed themselves...lol-lol.

Edit: At first glance I thought it said pornologist!

 

That might also be the study of fruits and nuts.

The refrigeration comes in with the postharvest part of pomology.

 

Different type of nuts.

 

Oh, the days of being able to buy a white soft top! Matching spare cover too. Those look like Jackman alloys on there? Nice!
That was about the time I broke the F134 crankshaft in my Tux, and transplanted my Buick 215 and did the Saginaw steering.
-Donny