Burning Oil/ Pcv/ And Nickel Copper Lines

I've been burning about a quart of oil every 150 miles or so in my f134 and have a few questions that might be able to be answered here. It seems to only smoke during rolling deceleration. Enough to make me gag. Unfortunately that's the ONLY time it seem to smoke so I can get eyes on what color it is.
Checked the plugs and they look perfectly fine to me.

I recently added "engine restorer" to the 10w-30 oil I'm using and It seems to have made the smoke smell worse. My guess is the compression went up, causing the vacuum pressure to increase during deceleration and pull oil in past the valve guides.

I've read here in other posts that increasing the weight of the oil might help delay the need for a rebuild and keep the oil from getting past the valve guides.

Also, I cleaned my PCV a couple months ago but I'm thinking maybe just replace it to see if that helps. It's not the kind you can easily take apart so I just soaked it in carb cleaner and blew it out real good before. The check ball rattled and it stopped most of the air from blowing through when I blew through it by mouth. If that makes sense. Either way, I think it's an easy replacement so I might as well just swap it out and see.

My questions are:

1. It seems as if the PO used a mix of weird adapters to make this PCV fit. Is this even the correct PCV? If so, which should I purchase?

2. Does the PCV need to be places exactly there? Or can I move it to any convenient location along the path of the line?

3. Can I Use Nickel copper line for the PCV line? I have a bunch leftover from my fuel lines and its easier to work with for me than steel.

4. For my oil replacement, I'm currently using Rotella diesel 10w-30.... And live in Sunny Los Angeles. Should I be trying out 15w-40? Or should I go with a single weight oil like straight 30w or 40w?

5. What about oil thickening additives? "stop smoke" etc? Can I just add that to my current mix of 10w-30 and "engine restore"? or is it bad to use multiple additives together?

Heres the current PCV setup FWIW:

And what all my plugs looked like. 1-4:

 

There's a fairly good PCV description on OWF. Use google to search Willys PCV OldWillysForum. 226 and 134's.
Your oil choice isn't bad. There's a Castrol high zinc in a slightly heavier multi grade, good price on Amazon.
Good luck

 

OK I see in a diagram there the adapters used in my setup might actually be correct LOL. Thx for that one it helps a bit.

 

Possibly valve seals, on the intake side???

My '56 f-head burns oil and smokes on the downhills, but has no other symptoms, so I've just lived with it, so far.

 

Ya thats about the only thing going on with mine too. But it makes taking passengers a bit tricky breathing wise LOL.

I'm gonna go with a thicker oil this week to try. Any advantage of a single weight vs multiweight oil? straight 30w vs 15w-40 for instance?

Also, I pulled the PCV and there was a bit of oil in the line. I cleaned it out real good but wondering if there is anything else I need to do to help out the PCV beyond cleaning it?

 

Seems like there's an overkill of opinions of which oil is best out there for me to sort though. Any specific recommendations? I tried finding that thread but its a needle in a haystack at this point.

 

Any basic modern oil is worlds better than what the engine was designed for. Run any 10-30 or 40. It won’t care.
Your intake valve guides and seals are probably worn.

 

Me too.

 

Avoid synthetics. They are made for much tighter tolerances than you'll find in your motor.

 

I swapped to rotella 15w-40 (found a great deal at harbor freight for it). and added some stp high mileage treatment for some added zinc and rubber seal softeners etc. The engine turned over fine and ran normally. I've only put about 10 miles on it so far and the smoke seems to have decreased "slightly". Probably gonna take some time for the stp to work its magic if its gonna help.

I'm doing a decent length drive this weekend for a car show on the other side of town so I'll update after that if there are any major changes.

Another thing I realized... I recently swapped my thermostat from a 160 to a 180 and right around then is when I started noticing the deceleration smell. I wonder if the hotter temps made the 10w-30 a little bit thinner and contributed to it finding its way past the rings or seals. Just a guess.

 

X3 on valve guides. Using nearly any dino oil, especially with a zinc additive, is fine for our old Jeeps. Thicker/heavier oil won’t make much difference on your smoking issue, but it will increase oil pressure, if that is needed.
Under de-celeration, an engine’s vacuum increases. If the valve guides have much wear, this high vacuum condition can cause oil to be drawn past the intake valve stems from excess oil supplied to the rocker shaft. If your guides have been replaced, they may accept a push-on valve stem seals. Otherwise, an umbrella seal that just fits over the stem may help control excess oil being drawn in.
-Donny

 

Interesting! I didn’t know that option existed

 

I would disconnect the pcv completely and plug the port just to expeariment and eliminate that as a possibility. Leave the case side open. I used nickel copper on mine but I havnt got hardly any miles on it yet.