65 Cj5 Body Mount Question

Finally getting to pick up my NTM CJ5 this week. I know for sure it is gonna need brakes (will probably do the mc to the drums all at once as it simply makes sense on a vehicle that hasn't been on the road since 78). It comes with new leaf springs and that seems simple enough to swap those out but I got some body mount questions. Would like to swap out all the mounts for new with new hardware etc. I see Kaiser and some other suppliers sell the original style 1/2" rectangle mounts (no hardware though) then there are thicker more universal poly pushings. Don't really care about raising the body but what would you go with and why? I am a fan of poly for suspension stuff as it lasts but will a universal kit work to replace everything and not need to adjust pedals and such? Hoping to take advantage of the 10 percent sales that most of the sites have currently. I see that some here recommend "elevator bolts" any suggestion on where to get 'em and what lengths etc?

 

If not concerned about 100% correct parts for a restoration, you could go with the 1” polyurethane body mounts. You can buy the kit with all the hardware. Will not affect any linkages, cables, wiring, etc.

 

Is there a reason you want to swap out the body mounts?

 

I put all new hat channels and poly mounts on my jeep nothing changed as far as peddles and linkage. I made a new floor out of 11 gage, and hat channels. Then drilled a hole through the middle of a 1/2 bolt to locate the center of the body mounts. came out all good. I put poly mounts at the front of the fire wall where the wooden sliders are. Good luck.

 

Well they are original and in about the same shape as some of my joints were that have been replaced already and I'm 10 years younger than the CJ

 

Did you use 11 gauge truck bed floor material or 11 gauge rolled steel? What did you use for hat channel?

 

I used 11 gauge rolled steel, I had the hat channels made at a Shop here in town, don't remember what Tommy made them out of, but it was what he had that he could work with. I painted it with Chassis Coat it gets real hard when it dries. Rick

 

11ga ( .121")is serious overkill being over double the original thickness and weight. Originally these are 18ga (0.048) bodies on 14ga (0.075) channels.
Lacking the stamped ribs 16ga (0.060) is a good substitute for the floor and using 12-14ga box tubing instead of hat channels would be a good cost savings. Hat channels are incredibly cheap and easy to make in a factory but to go out of the way and buy it doesn't make much sense unless it is for a partial section or restoration.

 

I used 14 gauge for the hat. I bought one side new, but had to replace a couple section on the other side. I made them out of 3 pieces. 2 90 degree that I could use my shrinker\stretcher on and then the 3rd piece was the top.