What Oil For The Steering Box Are People Using

Getting closer to being able to take the 65 CJ5 at least around the block. Today I ran the new hard lines. Still waiting on some bits for the rear hubs to finish and sadly the new master cylinder outlet bolt had some bad threads in the switch side that I don't have a tap to fix plus of course it ruined the switch so hoping Kaiser can add those to my friday order when they get in Monday. Anyways, planning on using some 15w-40 diesel rotella in the engine for the first oil change and for the axles transfer case and tranny Sta lube 85w90. will 6 quarts be enough for that or will I need more? Ordering 2 tubes of cornhead grease for the knuckles, what oil should I add to that to make pudding or should I just call it good with cornhead grease? Now for the one that I haven't found any old threads on, what should I put in the steering box? Is there anything still sold that suits it? Oh and while I'm at it what bulbs should go in the tail lights? Pretty sure I will need a flasher as well. The turn comes on for a second on the stalk but then goes out and doesn't flash. I did feel the need to start it up for a few minutes today. Always a hard start as the carb on it isn't original and doesn't have the choke hooked up but once running seems like the smoking is subsiding. Will probably throw the carb that came with the spare engine I picked up on it as I don't see a solid way to route the choke cable to the chinese one on there now.

Thanks

 

What does your FSM or TSM tell you?

 

Yes, the FSM specifies 140 Wt gear oil for the steering box. If the seals aren't good, or the bushing worn out it will leak, FIX THAT, don't use "Corn head" grease, or any other kind of grease in the steering box.

I also do not recommend Corn Head grease in the steering knuckles, though this topic always stirs up some controversy.

I recommend using something more appropriate, either the "knuckle pudding" recommended by Novak, or the specific lube offered by Brian described in his "Metalshaper" videos. I have seen too many tractor steering boxes worn slop out because some farmer pumped their tractor steering box full of the sticky stuff because the boxes were leaking. Farmers have that stuff handy. It does help with leaking, but it is not appropriate for steering boxes or steering knuckles, no matter what others might tell you. In a steering box, or steering knuckle, the stuff just sticks to the sides and does not provide lubrication where it is needed. These components need a lubricant that will flow, and anyone telling you otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about.

 

Bah. The D27 in my CJ has close to 30K on the straight cornhead grease in the knuckles, just pump it in there, you'll be fine. This is after multiple water crossings, and draining the water out, and the grease has been fine, and stayed where it's supposed to, and kept the things lubricated.

Ross Steering Box? No clue. I swapped my 5 to a Saginaw as the first mod I made to it.

 

I used 140wt when rebuilding my Ross box and have had no leaking issues in the two years since.

The Sta lube 85w90 is GL-4 and will be fine with the synchros in the transmission. It will also be fine for the transfercase.

 

00 lube for both Ross box and knuckles
Available at any Tractor Supply or lawn mower shop

 

If you don’t want your feelings hurt don’t watch Brian’s video on correct fluids for our jeeps. I have watched countless video where people have used the wrong fluids and now they are paying money again to rebuild the item that has failed. I had a company that used to work for my company. And the joke was they always do it right because they do it twice.

 

I ran 140 gear oil in the ross box, it never leaked till I hit that darn tree. On the knuckles i'ld always start with 90 gear oil and top off with 140 oil for Spicer joints with open bearings. If your u-joints are sealed you just need to pack the kingpins and you can run darn near anything you like.

 

With due respect to others’ opinions....having had excellent experience with it myself, I recommend the Penrite Steering Box Lube. It's designed specifically for older steering boxes like the Ross TL, and tends to "stay put". IMHO, it lubricates the sector shaft bushings and the pins better than oil.

Penrite is a lithium-base EP lube produced in Australia, available in the US through Restoration Supply Company in California. It's the bottom of this page from their catalog:



Here's a short video about it:

 

Thanks for the help guys, even Pete who really didn't offer a suggestion of course but suggested I read the FSM which I did first and couldn't find a suitable oil for the box readily available in 140w that I wouldn't have take out a loan to buy a gallon of the stuff for it or pay $30 a quart. No clue how leaky it is. Just wanna get the thing up and running and stopping for now so I can move it around and focus on getting a pole barn built as we just moved. Then have an actual place to work on the thing that isn't outside on asphalt. The Pennrite stuff looks promising. Appreciate the help and I'm one who is always leery about asking oil questions. Seems such talk tends inflame people as much as talking religion or politics! Might give the 00 grease from Tractor supply a try and make some pudding with it for the knuckles. Didn't know they had such a thing there.

 

As said above using the sealed universal joints for the Spicer axles means you can use whatever lube you want to in the knuckles, or even run them dry. Just be sure to pack the king pin bearings at service intervals.

 

Somehow, I can't see those brass spindle bushings approving of that.

 

Good point, I didn't think of that.