R&P GM 1/4 Ton Disc Conversion

Slowly acquiring parts and figuring out what I need to do.....
so picked up these Dorman lug studs


Dorman Wheel Studs 610-260
The diameter of the knurl is good and the length of the shoulder is good, the OAL is good....but wondering about the 'style' of the knurl as compared to the OEM style. Will these work when I pull them into to the hubs - just don't want to damage a hub trying something that won't work.

 

no brake lines were supplied, and no part number was given with them....but I found something I think will work. Rich included the part numbers for the calipers and pads and the knuckle studs, although i went buttonhead on the knuckles. I got the same pads you got - they are pretty much the only ones I can find that are organic without dropping HUGE coin on something from Willwood.

I bought some through Carquest that are supposed to coated and not bare metal so I wouldn't have to deal with painting....and i guess they are coated, but its really thin. Don't think its going to hold up for a long period of time. Part of what takes so long is I am painting knuckles and portions of the hubs, and the lock-outs etc....all this little tedious stuff takes time.

 

Yup....works well....these studs seem like they will work well

 

If I had to guess, looks like aluminum/silver colored silver paint? No time for detail investigation as prepping jeep for Colo. I know black phosphate coatings....all the rusty hardware on my skids, cross member etc was black phosphate years ago.

 

At least I only did one....

 

Alright....this might be better....you guys are just stuck in mud and not open to new ideas...

 

yup....I spent hours and hours searching on dorman and other sites....was the best i could find. Options were really limited by the .375" limit on the shoulder length....but after working with them a bit and seeing more about how the drums are machined, you could go longer for the shoulder/knurled section. The backside of the lug holes on the discs are counterbored a bit - Upon further inspection, it seems they are counterbored enough to allow re-use of the OEM lugs. Without the drum, the lug will push further through the hub, pushing a section of the knurl shoulder to extend into the disc's counterbore area. Don't know if that is some of what Rich does to make the discs unique and more specific to the willys application. In my case, I still needed a longer stud given the aftermarket alloy wheels, but I might have been able to find a slightly longer knurl section. FWIW - I pulled the ones you see on with the impact gun until they pretty much came to a stop - so that is pretty high torque they withstood without spinning. But given some years and mileage etc, and lots of on off with lug nuts, I do worry they could eventually spin. This is all new stuff to me....learning the hardway.

 

Got a little chance to work on the brake upgrade....had to finish the knuckle rebuild, new kingpin bearings, seals, TREs (and drag link) etc - then got the caliper bracket in place:


I've never worked with these GM style disc brakes, so its a bit of a learning curve trying to figure out how the pads and slider bolts go....I think I got it, but sure some of you can call me out if I got something out of place:
The basic idea with the rotor on the outside of the hub:


So here is the close-up of the caliper....The pad with the clip and wear indicator goes on the inboard side, with the clip going inside the piston. The simple, clipless pad goes on the outboard side and essentially sits in/on the caliper - this part I am pretty confident in as they fit pretty distinctly. But what about the spacers that go on the slider pins? Does that spacer go between the caliper mounting ear and bracket (as shown in photo)? I only threaded the slider pins in finger tight, so they are not all the way in. I assume when I tighten them down, they will push the caliper outboard a bit giving more clearance to the outside pad so its not rubbing on the rotor.

 

Quick question on banjo bolt fittings....never used them before....do I need a crush washer on both sides?