Sealing The Gas Tank Flare Line So It Doesn't Seep

So when I got the 5 that had sat for a decade or so the gas tank seeped from the fitting. Couldn't get it to budge with safe pressure to not break the fitting off while I sorted things. Figured I would simply order a new tank and new lines which I put on today. The new line and the new tank (which I did clean off any overspray of the paint from) seeps just the same. The flare is all the way in so I can't tighten more though it is quite tight to begin with. Never had a problem sealing flares but this one eludes me though I never had a vehicle with a hard line at the bottom of the tank either. Not really dripping but damp with gas and if you put a paper towel tied around it you'll get smelling like gas in a couple hours. Any tricks out there? Not a fan of any product I've tried to seal up my TVR sender unit which is a top style sender mounted on the side. Everything I've used there eventually fails. Just need to seasonally tighten the screws on it. Tightening isn't an option as I've run out of threads. Thanks. Hope to have a tank that isn't a ticking timebomb!

 

Get you some copper flare gaskets. Or make a new line. Probably a standard brake line will fit.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...leDesc=0&_odkw=flare+fitting+gasket&_osacat=0

 

How will these washers help, the flare is tight in there and the line is new from Kaiser.? Not one to make a line as it isn't cost effective for me since I don't do it well ever anymore but of course that would have the same issue as the nut would bottom out in the tank just the same. Won't adding washers just create more issues with 2 areas to seep from? My best guess is that it is seeping from the threads. That's where the original was leaking from as well.

 

The flare is the seal. It sounds like the nut is too short. The copper gaskets will give a little more length and the copper will
conform to the flare and make the seal better than steel. Use some light oil. This is what I used from my tank to hose connection.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062ZF20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Got it? Know if the stock line is 1/4" or 5/16"? Can't get a good measurement with the old one and if I get my order in from amazon soon I'll get it monday. Looks like the one you're using is a 5/16"

 

Sorry. Not sure what the stock line is but would guess 5/16. Pretty sure I matched the crusty one to the new. I bought this as it has the bubble flare end.
Mine goes to an electric switchover valve and custom made fuel lines.

 

As a side note, hard metal line is safer than flexible tubing. Best to run metal as far as possible.

 

Welcome from Michigan. Can't you just make a whole new fuel line? It seams like that would be not too expensive, do you have a rear tank or an under the seat tank. Like Pete L says, you can use parts store brake line with a double flare, and just flare at the carb, you don't need to double flare on fuel line. Good Luck. Rick

 

I bought a new line, it leaks just the same as the old line on a new tank. Buying and flaring a line for one vehicle that uses em is far too expensive and beyond my wheelhouse and time frame to begin with. Tank is under the arse. like any proper motorcycle.

 

I think I had to make a lazy double flair with the long nut for mine with a bit of Teflon tape after starting the threads. I've since plugged it and use a different system being fuel injected

 

I have had two reproduction fuel tanks that leaked exactly as you described. The flare nut on the fuel line will not go deep enough to seal against the cone in the bung. The copper washers / gaskets that Pete showed are the easiest solution.

 

Okay any other suggestions as I put a washer on and it still leaks just the same and bottomed out so can't tighten anymore.

 

Two washers?

 

The two I had the problem with bottomed out in the threads but the flare wasn't seated as I could turn the line with the nut as tight as I dared go.

One copper flare gasket washer fixed those, but maybe you need two as Fireball suggested.

Might help if you explain exactly where you put the "washer" or better yet a picture of the washer you used.

 

Also, I almost forgot about this one. The first reproduction tank I bought, and later returned for a refund, leaked around the bung. I pulled it out to inspect it and the piece was only soldered half way around.

 

Well 2 it leaked worse so figured what the heck since I was out $24 for the dang washers anyways I put 3 in there. 20 minutes later dry enough to add more than a gallon of fuel so hopefully tomorrow I'll know if it is gonna hold. Still pretty much bottomed out the nut with 3 in there.

 

Oddly with nothing in there even bottomed out I couldn't move the line at all in there.

 

I have had trouble getting the dang things to seal on the reproduction tanks. I gave up on the one I tried for the CJ5 in my Avatar and went with a plastic tank with the pickup on top, and it has never leaked a drop.

 

I ran over that CJ5 tank with my tractor until it was totally flat, and laid it on the scrap pile.