Changing Fuel Pump Questions

So my major oil leak that I thought was a rear main seal was actually the unhooked vac line from the fuel pump that was just lying under the starter spraying everywhere. It also just happened that my new fuel hose developed a hairline crack in the brass so after leaking one night (of course after I finally was trusting enough to fill the tank the day before that is unhooked. Ordered a new single action pump from Kaiser and a new line as well. While waiting on those to come in I remembered I have a pump on the spare engine I bought so today I took it and the pump on the installed engine off. Looking at the arms the 2 stage has a sliding "bushing" that would ride on the cam, the single stage does not. Initially I thought I could pop it off and put it on the single stage but it doesn't seem like it comes off. I'm assuming it isn't needed but would simply just increase wear on the cam lobe it rides on without that "bushing" right? Figure I'd rather put the old pump in then a new chinese made one, it is probably gonna last longer judging by some of the bad reviews for the replacement I've seen.

 

What motor? Too little information. The sliding shoe on the dual action definitely cannot be transferred to a single-action pump. Don't even try.

 

f134

 

Oil dripping from a vacuum tube is a common problem with a worn-out pump which in all likelihood can be rebuilt.

 

Welcome from Michigan, When you get your new fuel pump you can take the top off and rotate it 180*, put the in on the back and the out on the front, this make it a lot easier to plum it to the carb.I used brake line to make the fuel line to the carb, it is easy to bend into shape and can flared to fit the carb inlet. Good Luck.

 

Well it is on and after having a hydraulic shop make a new line (rubber with copper flares) at least nothing from the fuel pump to the carb is leaking, however I still can't get the blasted drain plug to seal. Have tried fuel resistant blue gasket sealer, have tried a crush washer and it still has a slow drip out of it. Anybody know what size it is (of course I have fuel in there again and would like to order another plug from somewhere else that actually has a decent head on it to compress the crush washer. I know not to buy anything from OMIX again.

 

FWIW, a rubber line under pressure on a hot engine strikes me as an unnecessary fire risk. An off-the-shelf steel brake tube with fittings probably would have worked.

As a firefighter, earlier this summer I saw a two-car garage, two vehicles, and a lot of tools destroyed by a fire started from a leaky carburetor fuel line.

 

This is from the tank to the fuel pump (where of course the factory used a rubber line from the hard line for engine vibrations). It is tucked away from any heat source quite well. Not my first choice but the shop that I use went out of business so I went to another one who didn't have fuel rated braided lines. I also own a tvr tasmin with bosch k jet which is around 150psi and runs over the engine to each mechanical injector in a "plastic" line and of course you are in a plastic car so I do carry an extinguisher. No need to carry one for the wife's electric car as I'll just run. Of course the only real chance of fire at this point on the heep is the leaky drain plug that at speed would likely drip back towards the exhaust. Any tricks? I am thinking that they might have drilled it to far down like the flare fitting so the hex is just creating the seal rather than the threads. I'm assuming it is NPT 1/4" and might try getting a hardware male pipe stopper with the square drive so I can turn it in a bit more. Can anyone confirm that is what the drain plug on a under seat tank should be or offer any other suggestions.

 

I apologize, I read "from fuel pump to carb..." in your post.

 

No worries, I would probably speak up too if I saw someone running rubber fuel lines across the engine.

 

Find a long flare nut and a short piece of brake line to cure your fuel supply line problem.. The drain is 1/4" and a capped off pipe nipple would work for that.
Not easy to source these nuts. Get this brake line and use the long nut with the length you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Ln-Tb-...d=1694661773&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-210

 

x2.

In place of a drain plug, I installed a valve so I can easily drain moisture in the tank.

 

The gas tank plug should be 1/4” pipe thread. Be sure to use a brass plug as that usually is soft enough for the threads to conform to assist in sealing. I would wrap a little gas-proof thread tape when installing.
Another TVR owner? I’ve worked on a few 280’s and even a gray-market 350 wedge. I have an old Vixen S2 project in the garage. I let my club membership expire a couple years back.
-Donny

 

Yup, got roped into being the VP so RENEW that membership. JK, just get working on tat Vixen as it doesn't get done by itself. Pretty sure I got it sealed now, the permatex stuff didn't work but I tried some Blue Devil dope rated for gasoline and it seems to have sealed up the threads. At least it is still dry with2 gallons in there and has sat for 3 days. Crossing my fingers but I am leery over goop to work long term. Yeah it is a brass plug.