Let's Talk Gauges...

This is my experience with a copper one:


It got replaced with this:

 

It's -3 hose, so 3/16" ID.

 

And the adapters are to 1/8 pipe thread?

 

One thought is that a big enough fuse to carry all the current for the entire vehicle might still allow a fire hazard even without blowing.

And if it did blow, losing ignition and lights and everything all at once could be a very scary moment on a busy freeway.

 

No. Pressure is pressure. The size of the pipe doesn't matter.

Yes. The adapters come in the kit.

 

My understanding is the typical ammeter is on the primary wire from the battery to the system. If it or the primary wire fails you have an electrical fire from the heat but if it has a breaker you should simply be reduced to the charge current from the alternator. That should keep it running above idle.

 

I prefer mechanical gauges. Still have the electrical temp gauge and charge light connected to have a reference and an oil pressure light plus an extra light in
a more visible location to get more attention.
Ran the braided hose as per Fireball and sleeved rubber hose over the line in the engine compartment to eliminate any chaffing. Used a voltmeter as most amp
meters are rated for 60 amps unless using a shunt. Also uses larger wiring and the confusion of more wiring and things to go wrong. At that point, a voltmeter
seemed the wiser choice. Put in an hour meter cause I could. Other gauges include a vacuum gauge and AFR.
Relays for high/low beam headlights, fog lights for possible future use, temp controlled aux fan and a relay to the HEI with hidden kill switch. Much more and
definitely not your stock wiring harness.

 

My Jeeps are all 12 volt with alternators. The reason I prefer a voltage meter over and AMP meter is I can tell with a glance whether the alternator is charging.

I had a regular car alternator that would not charge at lower RPMs, and most of the time I am driving a Jeep at slow speed around the farm or in the woods.

The alternators I use now will charge 14 volts at idle, all day long. I no longer have to deal with going down to the barn to get a Jeep and finding it won't crank over.

 

That's interesting. Even with a very small orifice, the pressure should eventually equalize. Not sure the mechanism behind what you observed.

 

Ditto, pressure is pressure and equal at all points in in a closed system, disregarding height and gravity.

 

Glen,

Yes, 1 wire 63 amp alternator.

I have bought a couple from CMV. They cost more than the alternator I bought from RockAuto, which worked but didn't charge at low RPM. These work very well, and exactly as described, even have the correct size pulley.

https://jeep1942.com/?page_id=10673

 

Make sure you bled the line of air or a pulsing pressure gets dampened and reads low due to internal friction in the orifice tube.