Help Me Find The Correct Pitman Arm.

If you’re sitting around on a rainy Sunday- I’ve bought and returned 3 different pitman arms from Amazon in the last couple weeks. First one had built in TRE I didn’t need. Next didn’t have the gaps in the splines. Now I have one that fits but the spline gaps are 45* off.

So I’m looking for a pitman arm with the gap’s aligned straight to the arm and with a smallish drop (maybe 2-3”).

Here’s the gear I’m using. Cardone 27-6529 mid 70s Chevy car.

Call me lazy but I know most of y’all are smarter than me. And I’m working on the rear spring hangers.

 

If it's a mid 70's Saginaw box (maybe 800 series), I'd look at a YJ/TJ pitman, like this one, very common to find, (and replace).
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/series-1234-jeep-tj-yj-stock-pitman-arm.html

 

Eye to eye length?

 

Currently ( the one I’m returning) is 5.25”
The correct one is… IDK!?! That’s why I’m asking you.

 

Straight or bent? Whats the maximum overall length before it contacts anything? More importantly, what’s the minimum eye-to-eye length you need to sweep completely and move the knuckles lock-to-lock?

If you find the perfect arm but the keyway is in the wrong spot, it might be easiest/feasible to just file the offending teeth away.

 

Pitman arms annoy me.
You need to know the diameter and spline count on the box. The center to center horizontally and vertically.
Then you guesstimate what would have the right arm and still throw it back in the pond.

 

If the wide teeth in the pitman arm throw of the clocking off, buy a triangular shaped file such as the item 4229A13 ( triangular files | McMaster-Carr ). Use the file to cut a groove into the wide teeth on the pitman arm duplicating the narrow teeth. You can then clock the pitman arm to a position you want or need. I have done this many times.

 

The pitman arm must also have the correct diameter and taper to fit the TRE. The drop you are looking for may make
this difficult to find. Have you considered doing a tie rod flip? This is an arm I am looking at but has a 3/4" drop. It also
lists the specs. The small hole may be too small and be taken care of with a reamer which would also be used in the tie rod flip.
https://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=921

Skyjacker has one for a 2" lift but does not list the length.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Skyjacker/825/JA552/10002/-1

 

Having an arm that’s the correct length, drop and taper is 99% of the way there. Personally i would keep that arm and file splines into the offending spline gaps.

 

Y’all greatly overestimate my patience.

Seems I can easily measure the needed length before I order the next one. Im done with the current frame boxing so doing that now.

 

Lacking patience there is always the good o'l saws-all or jig saw. But what I do with stuff like this that takes a lot of patience is I take it to work and nibble away at it whenever the PC is spinning or I'm sitting on the porcelain.

 

Filing is a lot quicker than waiting for the wrong part to show up a few times

 

True. But since I don’t have the engine, transmission even in the Jeep I not in a huge hurry.

 

If you can't file those 4 notches in 10 minutes or less, you are taking way to long going to get your next cold beer.

 

Joe is correct. Jigsaw clamped upside down in vice.

Greg and the rest of y’all are also correct.



The jigsaw definitely helped get things started. The file took only minutes.



Lock to lock with very little left in the box.

 

Glad that worked. What part number did you end up using?

 

x2, I have done this as well, not a big job either. works well.

 

I don't mean to be a party pooper.

Pitman arm selection should not take place until the chassis is fully weighted.
Engine, cooling system, winch, etc... all need to be in place in order to determine the proper amount of drop needed for bump steer correction.
When the front suspension is fully loaded your shackle reversal setup will move the axle rearward, likley making the current "barley long enough" pitman arm too short. This problem will be exaggerated when the suspension is maxed out on the trail somewhere, limiting your turning capability.
I wouldn't count on that current pitman arm being your forever pitman arm.

 

Thanks Kyle,
Never considered the flex would change the amount of travel. That's why I'm here. Learning new stuff every day.
I put it on with a breaker bar - anyone have a pitman arm puller I can borrow?

 

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