1970 Restomod Build

Just a note on the spring mounts. The center hole is just a pilot sized for the center bolt to pinch it with the spring pack. That gives you room to drill for a small offset. Tabs go inside then plate or run a shock stud on the open end. It'll be stronger than the other kits with bracing on both sides of each nut. (Make sure you have room for a washer and socket before welding solid)

 

Everything is looking great!
In your revision of the steering shaft, do you plan to add a double joint and support heim?
You can notch out the engine mount and weld a 1/2 round of tube in for clearance.

 

Thanks for the information on the spring mounts.

 

Yes, we are definitely adding a support and a double joint. Notching the motor mount with tubing looks like the way to go. Waiting for the Dana 30 to get finished so I can start the final version.

 

Bumper came home from powder coating. Local guy is great at getting the job done in a couple of days.


New tires are mounted up on the rims that came on the Jeep. One more round of polishing and they will be a solid B for condition. Wheels are from 2005. Got lucky and was able to by a new spare wheel.


Followed Jw60's advice on the spring plates. They turned out very nice. I did grind them down. Glad Kyle hooked me up with these.



Fabricated some plates so the original style pedal pads would fit the Cherokee set up.

 

Started prepping the read end for paint. Ground down the edges a bit to help with sliding over rocks. Might not make a difference but it can't hurt.


All painted up with the springs installed. U bolts are from Ruffstuff.


Fully dressed and ready to go in.


Installed with new shock mounts tacked in. Suspension is a BDS 2.5" lift.


Started working on the parking brake set up. Bought a Chevy spark e brake lever from Amazon.


Installed and fitted. Just squeaked by the gas valve.

 

Routed the emergency brake cables 20 different ways and finally settled on a routing. Waiting on a few small parts to finish that installation. Finally a glimpse of what it will look like in the future.


Have the stinkbug look going on. Still waiting on the Dana 30 to get back. Once that arrives I can starting finishing the front of the Jeep. My parts pile is starting to dwindle.

 

Started working on a few smaller projects while waiting for the front end to be finished.

Bought a piece of 1/2" HDPE and bent up a simple gas tank skid. Bolted it directly to the stock metal skid plate.


Made up a simple spare tire rack. Kept it simple. Put mounts on for a CB antenna and flag mounts for the sand. Mounting plate is from Ruff Stuff used it many times as a template for different tire mounts. Decided to use it up on this project.


Freshened up the tail gate graphic.


Made a quick disconnect for the license plate.

 

After months the front end is home. Cleaned up the housing and gave it a paint job. 4:88 gears Zip Locker, HD Axle shafts, Spicer U joints. 2.5 BDS springs. 6 degree shims, All new brakes.


Installed in the Jeep. Looking forward to finishing the steering, brakes and suspension.

 

Might need to be creative on the front shock mounts. Mine worked out that I welded a stub onto the caster shims and my upper mount is raised a few inches, I'm using rear YJ shocks on all 4 corners.

 

I agree on the need to be creative. this is what I came up with. CJ7 front shock mounts and a Ruff Stuff lower mount. Zip tied the shock down to ride height as a starting point.


Here is the finished product. My can of chassis paint is getting old so it looks a bit gummy. Shocks are for a 2.5 to 4" lift and there is 9" of travel on the shock. Instead of going into metal work right now I put in a piece of neoprene on with alligator clips.


Front


Rear


Knowing this is a static test we are close. The front shock, bump stop and tire to fender were all in time with each other. Still had an inch and a half of down travel remaining on the shock.
the rear was 2" away from the bump stop. Will need to lower those. Of course real world with weight, broken in springs, aired down tires against a real obstacle will be the real test.

 

Looking Great!
I would recommend a stronger tie rod and drag link. DOM tube in 1" OD x .188 wall is an easy upgrade, I have the taps if you make it over this way. You could also cut tube at your place and just thread them on my lathe real quick when you are over this way. While your at it a flip to the top of the knuckle would be even better.

 

DOM and tie rod flip is a must for rock crawling. Also Boxing the frame at all the spring hangers brackets. You are doing a great job!!!!

 

Can you provide a link? I like it. That parking brake is not functional and I'd like to do this. Tried the Novak site, couldn't find it.

Great project/progress by the way!

 

Here is the Amazon link for the emergency brake handle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NMM6CM4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4

 

Flip Kit arrives tomorrow. I will definitely source a piece of DOM and set up a time to have you tread it. Your setup is proven and better than parts store merch.

Thanks for the reminder on boxing the frame at the spring hangers. I had done it when it was down to the frame but did'nt post any pictures. I am all about tips and tricks for a better Jeep.

 

Stuck on the best way to route the steering shaft. Looking for schooling or advice on this one.
Parts that are on site, 1" to 3/4" DD joint. 3/4 to 3/4 DD joint. 3/4" to 3/4" DD coupler, 1" to 3/4" DD coupler. 3/4" support bearing. 3/4" DD to steering box coupler.


This seems wrong to stack U joints


This was the other option I came up with.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

I'ld go with it as shown in the first picture with the support tighter to the u-joint.

 

I would shorten the first shaft up so the u joint is in between the pipes for cylinder 3 and 5.

 

Thanks for the help.