ignition issues

i think they are aftermarket locking hubs i dont know if the cj5 came with them ... ? maybe you do .. so i take it i have to rebuild the hubs ... i hope its not to hard to do .. the seats are mounted on the lids to the underseat storage boxes seems kinda unsafe . lol yea the wheel is right in my chest almost and its kinda odd going for the gas and clutch and break pedels because they are close .. i think this week im going to take photos and post them on my yahoo e mail thing so everyone can have a look see

thanks for the info

josh

 

Locking hubs will only go together & work 1-way. It only took me 2 tries back in '81 to get the logistics right. Get yourself a Chilton's manual first.

gj

 

I beleive it is 2H that would be normal for a Dana 20. No twisting just motion front to back. The transmission as said before should be a T-15 it was used with the 304's. As for the hubs being hard to turn mine don't turn real easy but are not that difficult.

 

seems like the t 15 is a pretty good 3 speed from what i hear and i hear the dana 20 wont the best thing in the world they want a 18 ? but i guess what i have will work in deep show and ice ... any other good mods for show and ice maybe a rear locker?

and if the hubs only go on one way i should be good to go .. ill take gread care in takeing them off and rebuilding them .. has anyone had any problems with anyone in parking lots.. kids or other people playing with the hubs so when you get in and drive turning corners is harder ? this place is great im glad everyone is takeing the time out of there day to help me thanks you all so very much

josh

 

Josh, I thought you were given great feedback on your ignition issue, any luck on getting it fired up?

 

no fire yet.. im working on it off and on this place is great good feedback and good help on everything everyone here knows a ton more about these jeeps than i do i figured id give the electrical stuff a rest because it seems i have found some more problems in the lights and guages ... i think i just might shell out some cash and just get all new wireing and do it the correct way and have it all water tight . i think that would be better that re hacking a already bad hack job there are so meny spliced in connections and it just looks like a big nasty rats nest and i do infact have pet rats and they cant even pull off something this bad .. so anyway i just figured it take my time and do it right so i will have a trouble free clean system .. today im gonna be takeing some photos and i will have them up on my yahoo photo thing for everyone to see

thanks for all the input you all are so very helpfull and almost like a close famely

josh, KC0QCM,AAR7JI/T

 

Opps, i forgot to proof that last post.
Sorry Josh, I just don't pay attention to 2H.

gj

 

An original Detroit Locker in the rear is no good on the road in rain, snow, or ice by itself. that's why they only recommend them on 120' wheelbase or longer. even a light hydroplane or an easy turn in the rain can release the locker and throw you into 180's or 360's. They're great off road in mud , sand, & climbing, but make sure you have something strong like a TruTrac in the front to keep that locker in control.
I'm not familiar with the air lockers or the softer detroit locker versions, but I've been running a D60 w/an original locker in the rear of my CJ5 for 23 yrs and theyre downright dangerous.
If you follow the "Circle of Safety" and do a complete check around your vehicle, incuding hubs, before you start off, you'll be OK. I always reach inside my wheels & check that my axle shafts are locked/unlocked to my spline shafts everytime I lock or unlock my hubs. It only takes a half a minute & you may find that one hub may not lock for a quarter turn of the axle shaft.


gj

 

man that sounds like a real problem so if you have a locker in the back you want the front hubs locked or unlocked ... im not sho what locking hubs i have maybe you can tell from my photos i know the place you turn is red? if color matters and im gonna have to put the jeep on stands to see if there is a locker in the rear ... i dont know if the guy installed one in the pumpkin or not he was into mud slinging so .. tha may be an issue..

thaks for the safty warning i will check them every time

 

To really be safe in the rain on the road w/a locker in a short wheel base vehicle, yes, you really need 4WD for control, but that will cause other problems because your front axle, transfer case, front drive shaft, & U-joints were not really designed to run on hard pavement unless it's snowy or icy. Just locking the hubs will not give you any control unless you shift to 4WD & running with them locked reduces their lifespan and your mileage.
You must keep your air pressure in your rear tires exactly the same w/a locker or it will constantly seek the side with better traction. I just drive very carefully w/my locker in the rain & keep a very large envelope of safety around me in case it does kick out. I've also learned to make the start of the turn before I stop at a signal or stop sign, which usually kicks out the locker, it's usually safer to switch back to lock on a staright away than to kick to one side during a turn.
There are so many newer products on the market that are claimed to be "softer", but for off-road, you can't beat an old fashioned Detroit Locker. I think it's worth the chances (mayhaps the reason for the handle Gonzo) and I always carry my Saint Christopher Medal.
Put the rear up on jackstands & turn one wheel. If the other wheel turns with it consistently, you may have some type of positraction. If you hear a slight indexing noise, it could be a detroit locker. Next get a friend to hold one wheel and turn the other if it "clicks" or snaps" and just your one wheel turns, have him release the other and it should click back to both wheels turning at the same rate. Chances are good that it's a locker. If the same thing happens, but quietly, you probably have a positraction or even a TruTrac (next best thing to a locker). If you find a patch of sand or soft dirt, go spin the rear wheels & see if both dig or leave tracks evenly. With a locker, I've been able to sink my back wheels in sand until the pumpkin is touching, then shift to reverse & slowly walk right back up out of the ruts. I wouldn't recommend that you do this unless you have 4WD standby.
The best control in deep snow is low pressure & wide in back and thin up front to cut a turning path. You can just air down your tires to different pressures (but equal all4 corners) and see what works best. I don't know your wheel & tire set-up, but 15" is a good minimum pressure to run without bead locks. It doesn't do a tire much good to roll it off the rim from too little air pressure. They can be emergency re-seated after a good bead & rim cleaning with a big squirt of starting fluid & a match. watch your fuel tanks, jerry cans, flannel shirts, moustaches, & eyebrows for this trick. First try a little oil around the bead, a tiedown strap around the tire to force the bead to seat, & a good air compressor.

gj