crankcase pressure

I have a 1960 cj5 with a f134. It had not been run in about eight years. I recently got it running and in ran great. About two hours of running and it is
bleeding oil from a few places...mostly the dip stick tube and into the cylinders causing the plugs to fowl :evil: ...to much pressure, but I can't figure out what is causing it. Does anyone have any ideas?? I have checked the pcv system and that doesn't seem plugged. The
carb did put a lot of gas into the oil before I rebuilt it, so the oil level is too high, could this do it?????

 

I would guess it is ring blowby. If it hasn't been run in 8 years it might get better. Run it for a while with a quart of marvels in the oil to see if you can get some of those stuck rings loosened up. They might be wore out and it won't help but worth a try.

JB

 

Thanks, I didn't think rings would do that....it's only got 25000 miles and the body is in great shape for being in NY....it was trucked from California in the early 90's....

 

When I drained the oil, I found that gas had been filling the crankcase...seemed like a couple gallons came out....put in new oil along with the marvel's and it ran alot better. Played in the mud for about 15 minutes and it started running really rich..(black smoke)...readjusted the float level and now it's filling the crankcase with gas again...Do I have a carb issue or are we still thinking rings??? thanks.....

 

I had the same problem with Percival - he had ~20K on the clock as well. When I bought him, the exterior of the engine was coated with oil. As part of his (total)refurb, we had the engine apart, honed the cylinders, re-ringed, etc. We figured, 20K miles, can't need a rebore . . . we were wrong.

Ran him with the hose off the air fillter to reduce pressure, dipstick loose, etc. No help.

In my case, the worst of the blow-by was when when running @ highway speeds. I'd push out 1/2 a quart of oil in a 2-3 hr run on the highway - mostly around the rear main seal. Replaced it 2X before we figured it out. Driving around town wasn't too bad. Its the worst when you are running full out, at zero manifold vacuum.

Answer - rebore.

 

“A couple of gallons” sounds like way too much to be getting in any way except directly via the fuel system. I would look carefully at the fuel pump diaphragm before suspecting rings. Of course, an easy compression check will instantly tell you the condition of the rings. Oil thinned out by leaking fuel could be fouling your plugs.

 

No dought your fuel pump is bad. That is where the gas is coming from.

JB

 

While I too would check the fuel pump, this sentence bothers me. I would worry about the needle and seat. When it starts running rich, shut it off and look down the throttle bore. See if there is any fuel dripping into the intake. If so, then you will need to check the carb;. Also, be sure tov run a fuel filter.

 

CVM108-

FWIW, I also replaced a perfectly good fuel pump. In my case, no help. These guys talking about fuel pumps have a point, except a bad fuel pump wouldn't cause your engine to bleed oil all over the place . . . .

 

Don't want to say you're wrong, Fhead guy, since I haven't looked at cwm108's Jeep. But by definition, if the PCV system is not plugged, there can't be pressure in the crankcase - it's under vacuum from the intake. 8 years of sitting without running can make a "self-drainer" out of any engine, as gaskets may dry up and shrink. cwm108 may be looking at several unrelated problems resulting from the long storage (and maybe a few pre-existing problems). In any case, it pays to check out all logical possibilities.

 

If he is getting that much fuel in the crankcase in that short amount of time, it isn't possible for the carb to be dumping it and still run. It would be flooded out big time. It has to be the fuel pump.

There isn't by chance an electric fuel pump between the mechanical pump and the tank is there??? A real no no.

JB

 

No, just the mechanical pump. It does put out vacum also. I have had both L134 and f134's with more miles and longer times sitting...but never have seen this problem. One more thing....looking through the paperwork that came with the jeep I found a receipt that mentioned "fixing" a crack in the head and some other things...I've no way to contact the garage that did it and the previous owner does not know, I know that this may be the problem, but I don't want to take it apart if that's not the case....think I'll try the compression test, I would think that would show a loss of compression wether it was rings or some type of crack. By the way, what the going price on a f134 that runs? I know a guy that has one.

 

$300

 

I'm sure the answer is here somewhere, but I can't find it..I think I stopped the oil pushing out of every spot it could. But now I'm having trouble keeping it running. I've had the carb apart about a dozen times, (haven't looked down it to see if it's running over though) I've replaced points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires and plugs. It will run a few minutes, then starts skipping and runnning really rough, then dies. I bought a compression tester and each cylinder reads close to 140 each with a cold motor, really won't run long enough to get very hot. The plugs are black, and I tried to time it by ear and it did smooth out and idle a little faster...then died...getting annoyed....want to drive it....I spoke with a person today that's running a f134 in his cj, not sure what year. It had a GM alternator on it, so it's 12volt. He said he had the same problem. He says that the motor starts on 12v, but should have a resistor between the key and the coil to drop it back to 6v at the distributer. Didn't make sense to me..I'd think the factory would have done that, and I think his was converted to 12v, but he says it's the same for the 12v system. He owns a tractor business that looks like they work on mostly older tractor's with similiar systems...Any one have any suggestions??? Does his theory sound good? or does anyone else have any ideas????