pto seal leak-step forward/step back

Well the old seal came out easy enough and the new one popped right in. Hooking the u-joint was a little struggle being in tight quarters. I changed the oil in the trans/TC and went for a ride, then watched a small drip emerge from the new seal. Smeared grease arround it in a feeble attempt to stop it then over night a nice puddle occumulated under it. So what went wronge? I thought the shaft was clean and I put a little oil on it for the seal to slide. Was this a good idea? Also I ordered the new seal by size (1"id x 1 7/8"od) but it's a little different. It's a "cup" shape with a smaller rubber in the center, maybe 3/32" wide. The old seal was 2 "cups" facing each other, one overlapping the other, with a wider rubber in the center. Any advise? Any one know where I could find the other seal if that's the problem? thanks.

 

The local auto parts store describes the old seal and "oil bath seal" and "shielded both sides", but can't get one. Does anyone have a source for one? Koenig's number for it isw048-214. thanks.

 

I went to my local bearing house with seal in hand and he matched it up. No P/N here though.

 

Who is Herm? I took the old seal up to a bearing shop and to NAPA yesterday, they both sell Chicago Rawhide seals but had to see it. The bearing shop had what's considered a replacement that matches the one I've already installed. It's thinner so I'm going to try stacking 2 together. Also the guy at the counter removed the spring from the seals and shortened it to get more pressure arround the shaft. NAPA called Chicago Rawhide to find the old seal has an old OEM part number and gave a replacement number. Same number as the bearing place. I'm out of breath.

 

You may have cut the lip when sliding the seal over the Keyway on the output shaft. It's very easy to do even when being careful. Take a fine file and remove ALL burrs from around the keyway and output shaft. Lube the lip thoroughly, and put some grease or vaseline on the back side of the seal where the garter spring is. Pack it lightly. This will help keep the garter spring from popping out of place when driving the new seal in. I have the CR # at home but keep forgetting to bring it in. Nickmil.

 

It's back in and seems to be holding. I found light pitting where the old seal made contact with the shaft, went over it wit emory paper. Otherwise the shaft was smooth. I stacked 2 seals with grease in between. Now I know why everyone describes removing the old seal as "just pop it out". The new replacement is much thinner (1/4") and does just pop out, the original thicker one (3/8"+) has more surface/contact area. Thanks again for everones help. By the way Chicago Rawhide's new part number is 10075.