Sears Welders

Can someone pls point out the difference between these two welders? I can't see where the $50 difference is. :?

TIA


http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...&vertical=TOOL&pid=00920569000&subcat=Welders


http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...=TOOL&pid=00920686000&subcat=Gifts+Under+$500

 

Roboter,
Itappears the only difference is in the amp output settings. The #20566 only has 60 or 80 amp outputs (a paddle switch). The #20569 claims multiple settings. However, they are both 120v fluxcore welders and will not handle anything much thicker than a pop can. You would be much better served with a gas shielded 240v unit.

 

It depends on what you are going to do with it I have a weldpac 100 Lincoln with gas set up 120 volts I use that for body work and sheet metal and it works great. Then I have a 180 clarke 240 volts for heavier stuff. A 130 amp unit is a good middle of the road set up.
Steve

 

If your not doing structual welding either one will do fine. I have welded up to 1/8" with no problem. Made my tire carrier with my lincoln and have had no problems, have a 33" spare tire mounted.

 

I'm getting ready to get one myself within the next couple of months, once I get the BT3-C torn down. I ran across two websites, www.weldingweb.com and www.millerwelds.com that have answered alot of my questions. Right now I'm looking to get the MM-210 as it will be a great machine to handle most any job for an auto hobbiest, from sheet metal to structural repair/ fab. And will allow room for growth as the skill level increases...

 

I have the mm210 it's the only welder you will ever buy.

 

Honestly, I wouldn't waste my money on a little welder like that. You're eventually going to outgrow it. When you do, your $300 or $400 welder will only be worth half of what you paid for it when you go to sell it.

I've used an older Craftsman Professional 210 model for years. Can't recommend it since they don't offer that model anymore, but it's just a rebadged Hobart Ironman 210. It's a bitchin welder that has handled everythig from sheetemetal to building axles. For a little more money than the Sears units I'd suggest popping for either the Hobart Handler 140 or 180 series. Go for the 220-volt if you can, but the 110-volt 140 gets you a lot of bang for your buck in a household current welder. http://hobartwelders.com/products/mig/ Don't forget the prices are MSRP and you can usually get it out the door for less.

There's allso Miller. They're tops in my book, but they're also somewhat expensive. The newer Millermatic 250-amp unit has a lot of features that regular garage wrenches won't really need, but it's the Dynatrac of welders. A Millermatic 135 is still relatively affordable, but for the price you can usually get the bigger 180-amp Hobart.

 

The Hobart 140 will weld anything you can build for your jeep including axles. The big advantage to the 110v units is portability. If you want to take it to a friends house and use it fine, you're not gonna do that with a 220v unit.
I have a friend that has built trailers for years with a 135 miller mig unit, no problems. The higher end units are great if you're gonna do it professionally, but if you're gonna work on jeeps and cars don't waste your money on a big unit that you don't need. It s kinda like buying a $300-$400 torque wrench to build 1 motor a year with, if you're a professional mechanic then by all means buy the more expensive better one. But if its a hobby its usually a big waste.
Any of the 125-140 units would work great for the average Jeep or car project.
I'll be buying a Hobart 140 in about a month.

 

I only paid $100 for mine used and in great shape so I couldn't pass it up. I have ran alot of wire through it and without it the 5 wouldn't be on the road. Someday I might go to a bigger welder but have a friend that has an Arc welder and a Mig that I can use whenever.

 

Check www.cyberweld.com for prices/ specs on various makes and types. They have the lowest prices from what I can find PLUS offer free shipping...