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Problem with spindle and lockout hub

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by russo, Jan 1, 2006.

  1. Jan 1, 2006
    russo

    russo Hope is not a method

    Norris, Tennessee
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2005
    Messages:
    498
    Showing my ignorance - I've been trying to pull the front hubs and drums on my '69 CJ5 to replace the wheel cylinders. I haverun into a problem that I do not find in the tech manual.

    The attached photo shows a "donut" on the spindle in front of the spindle nut. I do not fnd this in the manual. Is it part of the lockout hub? Can anyone ID this piece for me and explain how to remove it so I can get to the spindle nuts? :oops:
     
    russo, Jan 1, 2006
    #1
  2. Jan 1, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
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    8,524
    looks like a lock-a-matic set-up
    3 very small allen screws inside the three holes in the "donut"
    remove the 3 allen screws, then unscrew the outer nut, remove washer, and unscrew inner nut
    that's what it appears to me anyway
     
    jpflat2a, Jan 1, 2006
    #2
  3. Jan 1, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    x2. While you have it all apart, clean those lttle "donuts" throughly and check for cracks around the allen screw holes. It is very common for these nuts to develop cracks and for a part of the nut to actually come loose and then ride around in there causing all kinds of damage.

    I think Herm has replacement parts for them.
     
    w3srl, Jan 1, 2006
    #3
  4. Jan 1, 2006
    181jeep

    181jeep Banned

    central valley, ca
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2004
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    376
    why not just remove the drum and leave hub alone?? Aren't you just trying to change a wheel cylinder??

    JB
     
    181jeep, Jan 1, 2006
    #4
  5. Jan 1, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    6,197
    Hub's gotta come off to get the drum off.
     
    Boyink, Jan 1, 2006
    #5
  6. Jan 1, 2006
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
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    8,524
    if you don't have auto locking hubs, and some PO installed that type of nut, I'd replace them with the stock flat style; these are just too "fragile" IMO..
    bend the washer tab over the outer nut also if you change to that style..
     
    jpflat2a, Jan 1, 2006
    #6
  7. Jan 1, 2006
    russo

    russo Hope is not a method

    Norris, Tennessee
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2005
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    498
    Thanks all. I'll give it a shot. Hope to get a few more miles out of these lockouts before I start replacing.
     
    russo, Jan 1, 2006
    #7
  8. Jan 1, 2006
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    Please explain this Mike.
    I could take my 10" drums off my dana 27 and never take any of the front Warn locking hub apart.
    Or are you referring to being able to take the wheel cylinder off, I won't swear to it but I think I could even take my wheel cylinder off without taking the hub off.
     
    Mcruff, Jan 1, 2006
    #8
  9. Jan 1, 2006
    tgregg

    tgregg Member

    Oak Hills, CA...
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
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    529
    You can get them off without pulling the hubs...BUT it is WAY easier to take the backing plates off first! The bolts that hold the cylinder on are in a very small indentation and the S tube connector is really in the way. I had to get new S tubes as I destroyed them getting them unfrozen. Vice grips and lots of lube were required.
     
    tgregg, Jan 1, 2006
    #9
  10. Jan 1, 2006
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2003
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    2,084

    depends on how well the drums are swagged on to the hub. ordered the next size smaller on the 11" conversion (measured the old studs, not the holes) and now the drum slides over the hub.
     
    66cj5, Jan 1, 2006
    #10
  11. Jan 2, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    The 9" drums are held onto the hubs by the splines on the wheel studs. If they are factory-original, the hubs HAVE to some off in order to remove the drums. In fact, I had a heckuva time getting the hubs/drums apart even after I removed them as a unit. It took some quality time with a huge vise, some heat and a good deal of cussing to get 50+ years of togetherness to part company!
     
    w3srl, Jan 2, 2006
    #11
  12. Jan 2, 2006
    willysnut

    willysnut Banned

    Newnan, Ga.
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    Oct 8, 2003
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    I must be one of the lucky ones, my 9" drums have three indexing screws that secure them to the hub flange. They just pop off when they're removed.:hurrican:
     
    willysnut, Jan 2, 2006
    #12
  13. Jan 2, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    Aug 25, 2005
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    Mine too Jeff, must be a D25 thing.
     
    Rondog, Jan 2, 2006
    #13
  14. Jan 2, 2006
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    Jun 24, 2004
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    1,177
    If you switch, you might want to hold on to those bearing nuts. I belive they are a wanted item with the Binder gang. I upgraded to the later round style nuts in place of the earlier style. This eliminated the folding lock washer for the simpler pin and hole set up. If you go this way, you will have to retain the stock outer lock nut, as the combined width of the later style will hang out over the end of the spindle.
     
    jeepdaddy2000, Jan 2, 2006
    #14
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