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Bench bleeding a master cylinder

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by speedbuggy, Mar 14, 2006.

  1. speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    I am adding Herm's dual res m/c this weekend and the only real question I have for now is:

    Do I need to bench bleed the new m/c and if so, how do you do that?

    TIA

    Oh wait- question #2:

    what about the brake light switch on my old m/c...will it convert?

    TIA
     
  2. lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Always bench bleed a new MC.

    http://www.misterfixit.com/brakbld1.htm
    (Lots of other results on Google "Bench Bleeding Master Cylinder"... this was just the first one ;) :D )

    Don't know about the switch, mine isn't on the MC.
     
  3. Mark Mann

    Mark Mann Kermit

    Yes it should be bench bled. As I recall you fill with brake fluid, pump the piston until air stops bleeding out of ports- Wait some length of time (cannot recall how long, maybe 30 - 45 mins) and repeat process. I am sure someone else has a better recolection of this procedure. As for question #2, no idea.

    MM :flag:

    I see that Lynn responded in the time that I was answering.. You're all set!
     
  4. speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Thanks guys. Bench bleeding will be done.

    What about the switch? Anyone experience this yet?
     
  5. dohc281

    dohc281 It is what it is.

    I have one of Herm's dual mc waiting to be installed and he told me to run a line off of the mc and put the mc switch in it. Since I'm not ready for the install I haven't worried about it but I would call him and get the particulars, also then I'll have you for back up when I'm ready to do mine.R)
     
  6. termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Don't have the conversion, but my 68 with the dual mc has the brake switch inline going to the back. Think some years they put one on the front and back lines. So whatever is easiest. front or back.
     
  7. speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Can I use the original switch?
     
  8. termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Your old one is the single cyl right? You "should" be able to reuse the switch. Just get a T fitting that will go inline to the brake lines and let you T off with the switch. Make any sence? in fact, if you need it, I probably have one of the old switchs(and T's) from that 69 I tore down. I can send it off to you tomarrow if you want.
     
  9. speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    Yep, single cyl. Switch works now, just wasn't sure how to make it work with the new set-up. Sounds easy enough, though.
     
  10. 66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    parts 71 has 2 switches (front/rear) mounted in 't' fittings on the respective brake lines. when I used herm's kit, i only added the rear switch as i was too lazy to add the front one.
     
  11. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    The stock switch will work, it will screw right into a T fitting.

    For bench-bleeding I found it easiest to just buy a short piece of pre-fabbed brake line and cut it in half. screw each end into a brake lin eport on the MC and then bend the tubes up and around so that the ends will be up and inside the reservoirs, below the fluid level. That's important so that you don't kep sucking air up ino the MC when you release the piston. Once the bubbles are gone, you're good to go!
     
  12. mruta

    mruta I drank with Billy!

    I'd like to add that it's a good idea to use a thick wooden dowel rod or a cut off broom stick for bench bleeding. I've seen a few master cylinders first-hand that were supposedly "bad" from the factory because someone used a screwdriver (or other metal object) for bench bleeding and scratched the bore.
     
  13. speedbuggy

    speedbuggy Looking for a Jeep now

    I was thinking I could use the pushrod from the old m/c. That should work, right?
     
  14. mruta

    mruta I drank with Billy!

    Yup.

    Just be careful and make sure the pushrod stays centered in the piston inside the bore. It's not difficult, but it could easily be overlooked. It's easy to make a leaker out of a master cylinder by scratching the bore.