How to go about making Track Bars

Called both. Now I am no expert but I think you at least for the front go drivers side frame to passenger side axle and keep it inline with the draglink on the steering box. other then that I don't know nothin'

 

There are alot of differing views on a four link or three link/coil setup. First, there are alot of things to think about before bolting on new bars unless you are simply replacing the existing equipment. The last three issues of JP magazine have been addressing suspensions on a pretty basic level. The control arms, go fore and aft, two on each side, and control the front and back movement of the axle. The distance the rod ends are spread, one above and one below the axle at the axle, also prevents axle wrap (the tendency for the axle to roll over under acceleration), the further they are, the better they control wrap.
The Panhard bar locates the axle directly below the frame and keeps theaxle centered (side to side) under the vehicle.
Do some good research before doing your own setup due to the geometry of how the parts interact with each other.
Good Luck, I look forward to seeing it on the road!!

 

Track bar, panhard bar, whatever.

First, you sure you need 'em. Have you tried a swaybar yet? A front factory-type swaybar would go a long way in stability.

If you're set on 'em, start with the front trac bar first. It's got to be the same length and angle as your drag link or you'll have massive bump steer. Since your pitman arm is on the driver-side, your frame mount for the trac-bar needs to be on the driver-side. Like I said before, make the trac bar the same length "mounting point-to-mounting point" as your drag link. If you're going to use tubing and rod ends, I'd suggest a fairly burly tube wall thickness (at lest 0.188, but .250 would be better) since the trac bar comes under a lot of stress. Use Aurora or another high quality rod end. You may need to use misalignment bushings on the rod ends depending on your lift height, suspension travel, and how your mounts are designed.

If after you drive with the front trac bar you decide you need a rear, it's got to go the opposite way as the front. That is, if your front frame mount is on the driver's side, your rear needs to be on the passenger-side. If the frame mounts are on the same side the vehicle will turn really nicely in one direction, but turning the other way will cause jacking so severe a rollover on flat ground may be possible just from hard steering input.

 

Do you know what the caster is on the front axle?

 

That should be pretty good then. Just for S&G's, I'd put an angle finder on two of the bolts that hold the front diff cover and see what kind of reading you get. My caster was negative on the flattie and it was, literally, a death machine. Once I got the knuckles cut and rotated, it was much better.

 

Look into a watts linkage, will keep the axle perfectly centered all the time.

 

That'll get you your pinion angle, not your caster. Put the angle finder on the top of the balljoint a flat spot on the horizontal or vertical surface on the knuckle for the caster. Should be around 5-degrees positive caster (bottom ball joint in front of top).

From what you're describing I'd suspect a lot of things. Once you get the front end aligned, check your tire pressure, make sure your spring bolts are tight enough, check your front hubs for slop in the bearings, tie rod ends, etc. etc. etc.

 

Dan,
They had a 4 link calculator program on xtreme4x4.com awhile back. Looks like they took it off the site though. If you want it I have a copy. Let me know and I'll post it.:v6:

 

I misunderstood. I didn't realize you had a leaf spring setup. When I got done with my build up on the CJ, I could hardly go down the road safely. New ball joints and and alignment took care of that. Also check your steering box for excessive play.

 

Doht! - need to pay more attention when I'm typing!!!