Any thoughts on JB Weld or equivelant?

Has anyone every used JB Weld or a similar product? I need to repair the studs on my '79 304 exhaust manifold and I can't get a gun in there to weld on a nut. I'm thinking of adding an extention nut onto the remain portion of stud. I would need to perminantly attach it and then thread in another portion of stud. What do you think?

 

JB Weld is great stuff for certain things. I don't think it would work for what it sounds like you are needing though.

 

i have used the stuff a ton and it always works great, had a buddy used it to replace a cracked block and when hge sold it 6ok miles later it was still good to go, not sure if it works for what you want though, maybe im not understanding

 

There is approx. 1 inch of (broken) stud sticking out of the exhaust manifold. It's not long enough to pass through the flange on my new Y pipe. I need to somehow extend the stud. I figured I can use an extension nut (approx 1in long) to use as means to join another section of threaded stud that's long enough to pass through the flange. I need to perminantly attached the nut to the existing stud in the manifold. I can't access the area with a weld gun, so I need to figure out some other way. Someone mentioned JB Weld, but I don't know if it will stand up to the heat. Hope this helps claify and thanks.

 

Works great at welding quarters to counters at work, last I heard the one we put on the front counter at the sporting goods store was still there, with chips around it where people have tried to get it off with screwdrivers.
But I don't think it takes heat very well. There might be a high temp I don't know about though.

 

Maybe this will help, from their FAQ's.

 

why not remove the stud and replace it?

 

How hot does an exhaust manifold get?

Since the new replacement manifolds come with the stud, I'm assuming it's welded or perminantly attached. Am I wrong?

 

how fast are you running your engine and under how much load? they can reach 1000+ under the right conditions.

 

Check this stuff out...worth a shot I guess.....available at ACE hardware.

ThermoSteel High Temp Metal Repair (18003)
Item no: 8164980
Our Price:
$5.99
3 oz.
Welds cracks & holes in iron & steel
Strength increases w/heat
Use on exhaust manifolds, headers, mufflers, tail pipes, boilers & furnaces
Carded

 

:iagree: I have been thinking about it more and more and I just don't ever see you being able to get the exhaust tightened up with just something like this.

 

X3. Won't work.

 

The only reason I'm hesitant to pull off the manifold and weld a new piece on is that I just know I'm going to break off a bolt in the block. I know that can be fixed, it's just another delay. The only thing I've done so far that has gone as planned is replacing my steering wheel!

I may give this therma-seal a shot just to play guinea pig. What you say about tensil strength makes sense. If it doesn't work (probably won't), I will have to pull the manifold. I'm planning on removing the tub over the winter, so it only needs to get me through 4 or 5 months of only occational driving. Thanks for the advice.

 

Good luck with that. Let us know how it works.

 

I guess it never hurts to try. If it works, that is great. If not, the only other option is to pull the manifold and repace the stud any way. Give it a shot and let us know.

 

If youre going to wait, do yourself a favor and every now and then soak the manifold bolts with penetrant. I would do that after shutdown, so the heat would help draw the pentrant in, making it much easier when you do remove the manifold. Hopefully that would help, although it may be a little smoky on start up.
Mike
:smash:

 

My question is how bad is your exhaust leaking? I mean is this somehting that just can be put on the shelf till this winter and fix it when the tub comes off? I think im missing something here because I have drivin many a car (when I was young and broke) missing manifold bolts broken studs the works so y not just drive it like you stole it until this winter and then fix it right. I had a freind tell me a long time ago that if someone tells you how to fix something without doing it the right way......then it aint done the right way and it will fail and usually when it fails it fails at the worst possible time i.e your late for work and its raining and that tire that you just keep putting air in every couple days blows out on you and your stuck in the rain fixing somehting that had you fixed right the first time ..............

anyway just my 2 cents but I assure you that jb weld on an exhaust manifold will not work I have seen it used farther back on pipes around mufflers things like that but the heat dissapates well before it gets back there as opposed to the manifold.

 

I have to jump on the band wagon of fix it right the first time. Start soaking all of the manifold bolts with PB blaster or similar now. I would also start reapeatedly soaking the broken stud. Also, if the manifold is attached to the head with the origional bolts they are hollow and usually come out quite well. Take your time, soak, wrench, tap.... I think you will find it comes off easier than you expect.

 

Ok, Ok. You have all convinced me to do it the right way, but I'm not going to yank the manifold until this winter.

Chilli, to answer your question

Right now, it has no exhaust. The Y-pipe had holes at the first bend and sent a cloud of noxious fumes into the cab. Even without a top I couldn't drive it for more than 10 minutes without getting a headache! I removed the old exhaust system. That's when I broke the studs that attach the Y-pipe.

What do you guys think of these babies? This might be a decent (or perminant) fix until I pull the body. They are adapter nuts for model airplane props!!!!