Paint removal

Yep, thats the stuff I was talking about earlier. I used it on an old valve cover and the first one was down to bare metal before I could even get the other valve cover taken off the engine. I liked it. I had an ignorant buddy that for some unapparent reason sprayed some on his Chevy taillights to take a little paint off of them. Came back a few minutes later to find that his taillight lenses were just big blobs of gooR) ,so watch what you spray it on.

 

that sounds like what I need. I started on it a little with a wire wheel last night and I swear the paint all over it's about 1/8" thick.

 

You should also pull the steering column and the seats out of it and send them to me, so that they don't get damaged or something.

 

I'd be more than happy to turn the seats over to you. You get the feel your sitting on the john in the drivers seat.

 

Aircraft stripper is the way to go on large areas. Here's a couple tips learned from experience:

1) Read the directions on the can and follow them. Especially about not using too many brush strokes.

2) Try to keep the stuff out of seams, especially ones that are spot welded. It's tough to get all the stripper out of the seam and it just waits there for you to put on a coat of fresh paint. Then it boogers up your new paint job. Use a wire wheel on the seam.

3) After applying the stripper, cover the piece with a light plastic dropcloth like the ones available at Wally World or Home Depot. This keeps the fumes in the area of the paint and helps break it down. It also keeps the liquid from drying out so fast.

4) Don't be surprised if you have to use more than one application. On my 51 Victoria, I had to apply it three times and then use a wire wheel to get all the last bits of primer off. That 50 year old paint is tough stuff.

Hope this helps.

tommy b

 

R) Ok, maybe not then.R)

 

I've got to do this soon to, so keep us updated on thisproject...pictures would be nice too!

 

I have used sanding, dipping, and blasting on jeep parts, and I'll tell you why I don't like dipping of a body tub.

Dipping a tub will get it perfectly stripped, including all the seams and behind channels and other places where 1) it is almost impossible to fully rinse, and 2) equally impossible to get any coatings.

So, all those areas are now bare metal and subject to rusting even on a nice, dry day. Additionally, if all the dipping material does not get out of those 'nooks and crannies', you could get what looks like rust or bubbling paint runs coming on to the surface in 6 months to a year.

Now there was an outfit near Chicago that would dip, strip, clean, and dip in etching primer, but they were terribly expensive.

An old body guy I know told me that the best base is the original paint if it is tight and well sanded. I believe him.

I am having some fenders and grill blasted this week, but the hood and body tub and tailgate I am sanding and covering with rust reformer and primer. The base paint for those was pretty good.

Sand blasting is risky because it can tend to warp the metal. Glass bead is better if you have a choice at the sand blasting place.

I guess I'd leave as much paint on the tub as I could, consistent with having tight old paint on the surface.

 

The paint on this thing is horrid. It's really thick and in general it just sucks. But, the front left fender is wrinkled. The tub floor is rusted, and the back corners are both dented in. I'm no hand at fabricating, so I was thinking last night I might just paint over it all and then if I can find a body in good shape spring for it. I don't know yet.

 

kamel, excellent info on the subject that everyone should keep in mind. I have learned a lot of this through many years of trial and error,error,and even more error.

 

Agreed!!

If one learns from mistakes, then I must have have learned a WHOLE lot in my lifetime, cause I sure have made a lot of mistakes.

I did do three things right the first time though --

Did a 6 year tour in the US Navy
Went to college on the GI bill
Married the woman who is now my wife.

I think that's about it.

kamel

 

I bought a can of spray at the FLAPS (ain't that what yall call it?) last night that was supposed to be a highpowered paint remover. It works. It will also burn the crap out of you, but it works. Only things is it's like $6 a can. I'm gonna keep up here with pictures if my wife will ever bring my card reader home from the office.

 

I've been putting in time these past few days cleaning the inside of the tub, preparing it for primer, and now I'm curious whether I can save a little bit of time.

Straight to the question: How clean is clean?

I've used a strong paint stripper before and I like the results but I just don't like the clean up and potentially leaving some residue of the stuff. A 6 inch wirewheel attached to the grinder has been my most used with the occasional use of a flapdisc.

I took a picture of the 3 levels I can clean my tub; The first is just scuffing the paint with sandpaper; Second is one coat removed and leaving the original paint; third is bare metal.


scuffing the paint takes more time and energy. One coat removed with a wirewheel is probably the easiest. I can do a one square foot area in about 1-2 minutes. Plus, the black paint isn't as adhered to the surface that well. The original green paint is tougher to remove and get the metal to bare. It probably takes me 3-4 times as long.

I've been thinking it might be unneccessary for me to be cleaning to bare metal unless theres rust.

 

anyways, now I know it takes me about 6 hours to completely clean the floor and the wheel houses to bare metal with a wirewheel...with an hour lunch and two 15 minute breaks. washed it and got it primered after dinner.