Hypothetically Braking

I'd like to hear some opinions on these brake upgrade options:

1. Disc front, 9"rear, dual reservoir master cyl from Herm

2. Disc front, 10" rear (I have the 10" parts), dual res. yada yada yada

3. 11" drum front, 9 or 10" rear, dual....

4. Disc front, 10" rear, power booster and hanging pedal assembly w/ new master cyl on firewall ( I have pedals).


I'm still weighing options because I have 10" hardware for front & rear, but I need to upgrade from my single reservoir master cylinder. Ultimately, I like the first option the best. I'd be able to do the front and then just swap my flanged rear in with the 10" brakes later.

 

I didn't vote either.

Hanging pedal setup with booster is really easy to do and will greatly improve your braking over the stock MC. Cheaper than Herm. I had a good working dual-chamber frame-mounted MC, and I still like the hanging pedal/booster assembly better.

Disc fronts.

I have disc fronts and 10" rears with vacuum booster and hanging pedals, and the jeep stops in a hurry. Can't really complain about them being on the rear, although I did not like having the 10" drums on the front. Really squirrely. I would say put 10" on the rear for now since you have the parts, and then upgrade to 11" or discs when you get the money.

 

I went with op #4.
I just like hanging pedals.

 

I voted

 

I haven't upgraded my brakes yet, but after hypothetically braking with my 9" binders in some tight spots, I hope to upgrade to 11's soon or front disc. I think with what you have on hand, option 2 be your best bet and give you enough stopping power

 

I have (and voted) disc front 10" rear. Not too much work or $ and works fine.

I would say it makes a difference what you're trying to stop with the brakes. Are you going be light weight with reasonably sized tires? Or are you going to have tons of gear with a heavy hard top or V8 motor and really big tires?

I think disc front with 11" rear would be better than the 10" but I'm not sure if it's enough better to make it worth it. Avoid the 9" stuff.

 

I'm not sure what your experience w/ 10" brakes is (apparently bad), but my 6 has the 10's all the way around and I can stop without issue. I've even locked all four wheels up just see if I could. I understand that this may not be everyones experience.

But, if I was going to upgrade it would be all out with option four and the hanging pedals.

 

I am completely missing option #3. if you go with bigger drums, keep them the same size. Braking pressure is modulated through wheel cylinder bore size. When you start mismatching brake shoe sizes, you will either have to deal with that issue or purchase an adjustable proportioning valve. I am a firm believer in the KISS method. In my humble opinion, if you don't do front disks, run 11" on all corners. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the result.

 

I like hearing that! Since that's what my plan is....

 

Thanks for all the input, gentlemen. I'm definitely leaning more toward disc front than drums at all corners because of previous experience w/ my 76 cj5. Keeping all those drums properly adjusted wasn't fun. Also, I don't have direct contact with someone who can drill 11" drums for me.

Re: the hanging pedal conversion, I'd like to do it but it seems like a boatload more work than the herm conversion. For instance, it looks like my hanging pedals will have to be shortened, or I'm going to have to cut into the support for the hood hinges in the cowl to get them to fit. I'm going for ease of use here, but I also want a conversion that's worth my time.

Anything I do will be an improvement, as I've got 9" at all corners and never even bled the rear lines after disconnecting them for the lift. It's only a farm jeep know but I want it trail-legal w/ antique plates as soon as I can get it.

 

I don't know. My stock MC still exists on the frame because it looked like a lot of work to get it out. Waiting 'til this winter when there is less in the way. It is just an awkward position to be working due to its location.

 

I won send prize to................R)

 

im not trying to jack the thread, but what would the benifets of running 9inch drums around, and a propornishing valve (sp?)

what are the benifets of drilling holes in the drums, besides letting mud get in, and ruin everything? :?

 

Lets the water out after crossing a creek or river. Brakes full of H2O are just a little ineffective R)

 

I have disks in the front (stock on my scout dana 44's that I used) and drums in the rear with no proportioning valve and have no problem stopping with my 35" boggers in some REALLY bad stuff. And I am still running the stock MC (replaced with a new one becouse the old one was froze). Just my opinion. But drums all the way around are definetally not a pleasant thing. That is what I have on my 1972 LJ20. A pain unless you use it daily. Mine seem to rust up a bit and then hang the next time I run it. Zach

 

That is because stock your rear cylinder size(ie pressure) is already matched to the front disks from the factory. When mixing parts you loose that. Optimal braking is when the fronts lock just before the rears. The adjustable proportioning valve alows you to dial this in. Otherwise you will have to test each wheel cylinder size till you get it right. By staying with whole systems(ie 11" all around) this same balance will follow the mod, helping to eliminate much, if any, initial braking inbalance.