Would a Dana 60 be overkill???

I can relate to all these comments.

Anyway, FWIW, I went from stock (19 spline flanged Dana 44/Power-loc) to Torsen, to full floater conversion, to ARB Dana 60 FF with 19 spline free-wheeling hubs. I started with 35" Monster Mudders & replaced them with 36" Radial Super Swampers. In the beginning my problems were short pinion life (5.38, duh!). I solved that by going to the Dana 60. The combo of ARB, new driving habits (hey, if you got it, flaunt it, right!?) & my 83:1 crawl ratio enabled me to snap off 3 of those Dana 60 axle shafts at Tellico on School bus Hill & Faynes Ford without really trying too hard. I should have used 2nd gear (T-98 ) and/or disingaged the ARB, but that's hindsight now.

Somebody else said it, but it's worth repeating; "When in doubt, build it stout!". Eventually, I'll be able to afford to get 35 spline 1 1/2" shafts, but until then I need to remember that even 3/4 ton running gear has limitations.

My opinion would be be for you to go with the strongest unit that you can afford, but also take into consideration that unique, one-of-a-kind parts can't be fixed on the trail. There are definate advantages to using off-the-shelf parts when you build something.

 

JAB,
Did you notice any loss of power getting up hills/ledges with the extra weight of the 60?
Did you notice greater stability with the extra weight down low?

 

The only difference that was noticable was more stability due to the added width. I have Xenon 5" (or 5 1/2" or 6"???) flairs & built the axles to match that width to be as wide as possible & still be legal. I'm approx. 12" wider than when it left the factory in 1962. Right now the front is a Scout 44 with 3 1/2" cut off of the long side. I'm pretty happy with the stability but the short wheelbase still hampers me on inclines.