Broken hub stud...suggestions?

Here is the long story. I have a Dana 44 that I installed a detroit locker in and converted to a full-floating axle with Warn external hubs. When I did the conversion, I knew I was going to be placing huge loads on the hub bolts so I replaced them with grade eight studs. Unfortunaely, I had a lot of issues with the studs loosening, so I put a little lock-tight on them. This still didn't fix the problem.

The loose studs led to broken studs, which I have had the unfortunate experience of having to replace several times. Well, after a discussion with Posimoto while on the Rubicon last year, he explained having a similar problem and his fix was to replace the studs with grade-eight bolts that have a shoulder that is deep enough to extend beyond the hub flange and into the recessed portion of the bolt hole found in the hub. Well, after breaking probably my fifth stud I decided to apply Posimoto's fix.

Now the problem and the reason why I am posting:
One of the studs wouldn't budge despite using a little heat (probably due to the lock-tight) and I broke the stud off in the hub. I thought, "No problem, I'll use an easy-out, just like I always due." Well I ended up breaking the easy-out off and now I can't find a drill that will cut the machine-steel of the easy-out. Does anyone know of a drill bit that will cut steel of the same hardness?

For those who have never had to easy-out a hub bolt. Here is some advise I can share with you that I have learned: 1) use the largest easy-out you can; 2) don't bother with the type of easy-out that has a reverse-cut psuedo-looking thread to engage it into the broken bolt. These easy-outs are worthless! Use only a high-quality, pound in easy-out; 3) buy high quality, reverse-cut drill bits. I have actually had the fortune of backing out several studs by just drilling into them with a reverse-rotating drill bit....it's a great feeling; 4) use a lot of drilling lubricant to keep you good bits cool and sharp; and 5) use a slightly larger drill-bit than what the easy-out suggests. This will allow you to drive the easy-out in further where it is wider and can handle more torque before breaking off.

And if you just can't get a broken hub bolt out, I have successfully overdrilled the hole and tapped it for a 7/16-inch, fine-thread bolt.

Lastly, as for Posimoto's suggested repair, I can tell you that it works well. After running the rubicon last year, where I broke two studs on one hub, I replaced all the studs on that hub with bolts (I'm currently working on the other hub). I did not apply any lock-tight since I wan't to beable to easy-out the bolts, should they break. After one year of use, the bolts have remained "mostly" tight. The bigger advantage, however, as Posimoto mentioned, is there is less shock loading of the bolts since the shoulder on the bolts takes up much of the play inside the hub flange and the hub.

 

Ok, you have a common problem. There is no good way to remove an easy out. They are very hard, and will only be cut by a carbide drill in a mill or lathe. These work by the friction heating the drilled material and softening it enough for the drill to cut. The easy out is likely not flat, so you will break a few drills ( $$$) until it will cut. Easy outs should only be used in rare circumstaces as what happened to you is often the result.
You didn't mention the grade of loctite. Most loctite will melt above 300 degress, so you may not have gotten it hot enough. You can burn it out with a torch. You could possibly drill in from the other side and be able to knock out the easy out with a punch and hammer. You could try using a hole saw and cutting around it. A small grinding bit in a die grinder may do it.
Most likely you will butcher the hub and have to repair or replace it.
good luck!!

 

Thanks for the info. I used the medium grade loctite since I thought I would be faced with having to back out a broken stud. I heated the entire up with a torch prior to drilling out any of the broken studs. I suspect you are correct, I probably didn't get the hub hot enough to melt the loctite.

I don't have a lathe or mill, so I think I will try the die grinder idea followed by the hole saw. I will also start looking for a replacement hub, since I think that is the direction this "repair" will ultimately take.

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

 

I have been able to shatter the easy-out with a punch and hammer (as stated above) but it takes a while because it comes out in small pieces.

 

Thankfully hubs are easy to come by , at about 50 bucks. If you do decide to repair after a hole saw , weld in a plug and then transfer punch the stud hole using the drum or wheel as the locater.
I have to get on my soap box about easy outs. I have been called out to jobs hundreds of times for the same reason you used. If a bolt is stuck and you have to use an easy out , use a tap wrench , or something that allows you to torque on both sides of the shaft, not just an adjustable. If the bolt doesn't come free with a small amount of torqe, abandon the easy out and re-drill the hole.
Hopefully you will have some good luck.

 

I had a friend once explain where and when to use grade 8 hardware, I think sometimes when I read stuff like this he didi me a big favor. Anyway my suggestion is to first try to shatter it, maybe some heat from a gas torch, after that I would be is frustration mode and go buy a new hub

 

I must be missing something--are the studs swaged in? If so and you can get the hub so it can be taken in you can take it to a machine shop and have them pressed out.

 

If you used blue loctite, heat is not needed for the loctite itself. If you use red loctite, heat until you see a flash around the bolt or stud, that is the loctite seperating.
Easy outs should always be used with a tap handle and never with a wrench, as mentioned above the torque on one side will almost always break them. Either grind the easy out out or havea mchine shop carbide it out. If no one wants to I can do it for you if its cost effective to send it to me.

 

You are local take it to b&j machine on riverside dr. in anderson next to the SPI mill they fixed my mess up for 20.00 dollars