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18 single to double shift conversion.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 52m38, Nov 8, 2009.

  1. Nov 8, 2009
    52m38

    52m38 Same jeep since 1980

    Cody WY
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    Messages:
    96
    I have an d18 single,and all the the front parts off a D18 double.. anyone know if the front caps that hold the shifters interchange, regardless of age and intermediate shaft size.... going back to two shifters sounds like fun.
    Thanks
     
  2. Nov 9, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    Yes they will. Common conversion. You will need the front housing, shift rails, pivot pin, shift levers, anti rattle clips, etc. off the twin shifter transfer case. The transfer case must come apart to convert so a good time for an inspection/rebuild. You can also remove the interlock between the shift rails and get 2 wheel drive low. Just be careful as all the torque in low range will be going to the rear axle, not divided between the front and rear.
     
  3. Nov 9, 2009
    boiler

    boiler Member

    Pittsburgh PA
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2007
    Messages:
    80
    HA if you do it lets see some pics
     
  4. Nov 9, 2009
    52m38

    52m38 Same jeep since 1980

    Cody WY
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    Messages:
    96
    Thanks for the info guys, now just get to it
     
  5. Nov 12, 2009
    CJmike

    CJmike jeep mechanic by default

    San Diego, CA
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2005
    Messages:
    21
    Nickmil and all --A probable snowstorm this weekend has squelched my Rubicon plans, so I started dis-assembling to install my planned twin stick conversion kit that I purchased from Herm the overdrive guy. It came without instructions because he said there exists plenty on the internet and jeep forums. Well just my luck, I cannot find any, so thought I'd tag onto this thread. I thought I could just pull the front housing, swap in the new parts, and re-fab my floorboard opening. Does anyone have knowledge of a decent link with photos, or should I take some extra steps to create a how-to-do-it-right-the-first-time set of instructions?? I'll still need some guidance on those steps. Thanks--Mike
     
  6. Nov 12, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
  7. Nov 12, 2009
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    Jul 7, 2006
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    637
  8. Nov 12, 2009
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Messages:
    1,019
    I followed the Rick Stiver's Guide linked to by nickmil

    http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCase/Model18TransferCase.html

    I used the instructions to get the front bearing cap off (D10, D14-D15). The icky part was removing the high/low shift rail. You have to remove the bottom cover, and the rear bearing cap (D17-D20), then follow steps D21-D26 to disassemble the gears on the main shaft. In his guide he shows a hacked up hatchet to shift over the front bearing to get to the snap ring, on one of my transfer cases the bearing was loose, so it was easy, on the other I was able to move the bearing over using a large screwdriver and a pickle fork. The gears on the main shaft need to be remove so that you can get to the high/low shift fork. You will need to unscrew the allen head bolt (or safety wired bolt) that attaches the shift fork to the high/low shift rail. The single stick shift rail has a hole in the end of it that the single shift assembly bolts to. The twin stick shift rail has an indent machined out of it that the shifter rod fits into. That's why you need to swap the shift rails.

    After you take the single stick shift rail out, you can replace it with the twin stick shift rail, then follow the instructions on the above url to reassemble the gears on the main shaft, reassemble the rear bearing and front bearing caps.

    nickmil can probably point out any errors I have made and probably has a better description than this.

    Eric
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2009
  9. Nov 12, 2009
    CJmike

    CJmike jeep mechanic by default

    San Diego, CA
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2005
    Messages:
    21
    Nick, Larry, and Eric--A big thanks for the info!! The diagrams will definitely help me identify what Rick Stiver and Novak's websites are telling me to do. I thought I could do this upgrade just from the front bearing cap while still in my jeep, but I guess I get to pull it, and get into it a bit more deeply than anticipated. I'm sure I'll know my transfer case more intimately, which is not a bad thing for the next one I meet! Eric--thanks for the specifics, as those other articles were definitely more info than I need. I'll let you all know how it goes, and THANKS again--Mike
     
  10. Nov 12, 2009
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
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    Mike,

    You don't need to pull the case unless you want to. I did the swap with the transfer case in place.

    Eric
     
  11. Nov 13, 2009
    CJmike

    CJmike jeep mechanic by default

    San Diego, CA
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2005
    Messages:
    21
    Eric--I was thinking the photos with the hatchet tool were from the top, but that was actually the T-Case turned upside down, so COOL, I'll attempt it in place following the instructions you mentioned. I almost pulled it out last night, but my wife had other plans for me, so I lucked out a bit. Still planning on getting it completed this weekend!! Thanks again--Mike
     
  12. Nov 13, 2009
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2006
    Messages:
    2,882
    In the long run it really is easier to do it on the bench. Good time to check u-joints and torque mount.
     
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