Discussion in 'Quitters' Club' started by Dne007, Jul 19, 2021.
I hope you saved the original pads to put back on it.
Oh, yes, one more thing to occupy my shelves~ are you asking me?
It's very possible that I did, but so much time has elapsed since then and my garage is such a disaster that it would be pointless to even look at this point. lol
I forgot to take in account for the 4 degrees of the intake manifold~ does it matter for what i'm doing just to check it out for running, or should I "adjust" the angle of the engine?
After the holiday weekend, I should have the intake back on. I'm waiting on some special paint for my sandblasted hedman headers. I'm not sure I'll be using this radiator, nor fan, it was in the Bronco when I got it. I really like the Griffin radiator in my Mustang, but have a while to think on that stuff.
Amazing how much time it takes to paint the frame, even on the rotisserie. The blue will match the coil springs, the brakes, and the radius arms will also be blue.
I'm pleased with the frame, it looks really good
This is the distributor which came with the package deal~ I'll clean it up and see what it does when the time comes to crank this engine.
See this distributor?? Can one of you tell me how the engine ran with it?? The engine did run. Did something fall off of the bottom of it, like the gear and part which drives the oil pump? I feel I may have to drop the oil pan or pull the timing cover some day to see what's going on.
Nope, you'll be fine if the carb pad is sitting slightly not level. I wouldn't worry about it at all.
Thats an aftermarket Mallory Unilite ignition module. They can be... finicky. They do work, and when they work well, they really work well, but they can be a massive pain in the arse, when they dont. I'd personally probably replace it with a pertronix unit.
There is zero chance that the engine ran with that HEI distributor as it sits. The Distributor drive gear is missing, which either means somebody jammed it in there, just to keep water out of the engine, or the pin sheared off, and the gear is still in the engine. You should be able to shine a flashlight down in there and see if the gear is still there. I can't remember the 302 all that well (it's been a hot minute since I had one apart), but I don't *think* there's anywhere for the gear to *go* if it shears the pin, unless it gets broken up into smaller pieces.
Yeah, there is a shelf it sits on in the block. With the distributor pulled, it may slide into the timing chain area though.
I found it, it was on the shelf where the dist was. Was it designed to be two parts?
That's not the normal Ford setup but it looks like the aftermarket HEI might have came that way.
Ohhhhh, I see what they did there. And that's just lazy. Ford uses a "Hex" oil pump drive in the Windsors (and most of their other engines), GM uses a "Slot". So they took an HEI from a GM application that's *close enough* and just made a little oil pump adapter from Slot to Hex, and pinned it in the Distributor Driven Gear. So yeah, that *is* supposed to work that way. I would replace it with something that doesn't add an extra piece to the distributor/oil pump drive. Like an actual Ford Distributor, or something aftermarket, rather than trusting that little adapter, long term. It's entirely possible that I'm all wet, and that would run forever, and never cause you any issues. Maybe that's super common with HEI conversions for Windsors. But I don't like it.
I hope everyone had a great weekend! IT's nice to be back in the shop, however felt like I didn't get much done today, but I did have a visitor and I feel like a museum guide when a visitor, well, visits
Other: I removed the rotisserie from the frame and the frame is up on the low/tall jack stands; actually I could start re-installing the front axle, but need some C bushings(just learned about those), but don't know what degree to buy.
I fabbed up a battery tray for my ERS, put new plugs, re-installed the intake manifold, put the starter on, still need a few gauges like an oil, temp, I'd like a tach, but I guess isn't so necessary, I did find an extra ignition switch. The valve covers aren't installed as I want to run the oil pump with a drill to see oil in the rockers, but there is no oil in the engine. Still waiting on the header paint~ I'm having fun, just not enough hours in the day, then sometimes I feel guilty having so much fun!
Not terribly sure about the Holley, but I guess I can at least play with it on the ERS to see how it behalves. I do have a phenolic spacer on the way; the carb is just sitting there.
Looks like that's probably a Holley Truck Avenger. If it's the 470, it will be just about perfect for that engine. The 670 (I think that's the next size up) would likely work, but would be overkill. I've got a TA470 on my Dauntless, and it's been a good carb for me, if not exactly one that takes fuel mileage into account, at all.
Thank you Faulken, makes me feel better
Hi good people
Since I have the front axle under control, I got busy on the rear diff. IT's pretty nasty
I was working in the AC'd garage, so it was pleasant except for the awful smell of the old nasty '90wt. My Little MuleII takes all the work out of moving the heavy pumpkin around. I Removed the yoke as it was loose and pulled the outer pinion bearing out, and it looks ok. I'll make a little stand for it
The engine stand plus the diff holder is totally awesome, no sweat at all moving it around! Work smarter! After I get it cleaned up, I'm going to make some block off plates out of plywood to seal it so I can take it to have it sandblasted.
I'm totally unfamiliar with the ford 9", if I want to remove the smaller front portion, will it fall apart?
I'm not sure what you're asking. You can take yoke off, yes. and it won't require resetting bearings, because the pinion isn't used to set bearing preload. If you take out the 4 (I think there's 4, it's been a while since I did an R&P on a 9") 7/16" bolts out of the flange just behind the yoke, thats the actual bearing retainer that sets the preload, and holds the pinon in place.
You can just make out the bolts behind the yoke, so if I remove those, nothing bad will happen? I may have to find a youtube on the 9", I don't want to overhaul it unless I find bad things.
Sorry, I misspoke there, after I went and looked. A little braindead today.
The Pinion Nut *is* used to set preload on the 9", along with that f*&king crush sleeve. But the Pinion can't be pulled out of the housing without removing the pinion retainer flange, which is the one with the 7/16" bolts in it.
If you're going to be replacing bearings or anything, I'd highly recommend getting a crush sleeve eliminator kit.
If you remove those bolts just behind the yoke, you will be able to remove the pinion gear. No, it won't cause anything else to fall out of the differential assembly.
I'm learning about the crush sleeve eliminator~ lucky me
Can I use the old crush sleeve as the measurement for the eliminator? I've helped do one crush sleeve in my life, what were they thinking making those things!
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