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73 CJ5 first fluid change since I bought it. - What type and capacity?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by r_unda, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. Dec 27, 2012
    r_unda

    r_unda Member

    Corpus Christi,...
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    I am about to replace all fluids in the 73 CJ5 for the first time, while I do this I will replace the engine rear main seal that is leaking.

    The CJ5 has the 258 Engine, Dana 30 in front, Dana 44 in rear, the T14 (I think) 3 speed transmission, and the Dana 20 (I think) transfercase.

    Can anyone recommend oil grade and capacity for engine, differentials, transmission and t-case?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Dec 27, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Engine and gear box lube depends on temp in your area but typical for the transmission is GL-4 80 or 85-90 and any GL-4 or GL-5 for the transfer case and differentials. 10-30 or 10-40 is pretty typical for the engine.


    Sent from my iPhone
     
  3. Dec 28, 2012
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
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    You may also want to put in a limited slip additive to the Dana 44 oil, provided that it has the factory trac-lock and the clutches still grab.
     
  4. Dec 28, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    I put the Valvoline 80w90 gear oil from the FLAPS shelf in my T15. Novak says this on their website where I got my rebuild kit:

    "Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.

    An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment."

    To me these two paragraphs are contradictory, but the Valvoline gear oil meets GL4, GL5, and MT1 requirements. The bottle says its good for differentials and manual transmissions.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2012
  5. Dec 28, 2012
    r_unda

    r_unda Member

    Corpus Christi,...
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    Thanks guys! anyone know the capaicty? How much iI will need to buy?
     
  6. Dec 28, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Last edited: Dec 28, 2012
  7. Dec 28, 2012
    r_unda

    r_unda Member

    Corpus Christi,...
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    Thanks for the link timgr and thank you all for the comments

    Per the TSM:
    258 Engine oil - 6 qts -10W30 or 10W40
    Dana 20 T-case - 1.6 qts – Grade SAE 80 gear oil GL-4
    T-14 3 speed transmission - 1.25 qts - Grade SAE 80 gear oil GL-4
    Dana 30 - 1.25 qts - Grade SAE 80 gear oil
    Dana 44 - 1.5 qts - Grade SAE 80 gear oil

    I think I am going to buy 6 qts of Valvoline 80W-90 high performance gear oil since per the tag meets API GL-5 and GL-4. This will be for the transmission, transfer case and differential. And 6 qts of probably regular Mobil 10W40 for the engine

    Any experience with the Valvoline 80W-90?

    Thanks!
     
  8. Dec 28, 2012
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Châtillon en...
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    I just got my CJ5 71 from the garage where they change and add fluids and greases. On the book there are many parts to fill with oil and grease.
    It seems better to use products not too modern because they can be too aggressive as a specialist explained me.
    It is a village garage, the man in charge knows the job also on tractors and agricultural vehicules, he uses a powerful grease injection system.

    The result is a big change, my Jeep is like a young lady, he told me that it was dry in many places, dry or not enough grease or fluid.
    It is not like new cars with long lasting oil, in the book they say every 1000 miles or more frequent if bad conditions.
     
  9. Dec 28, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

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    That gear oil is also rated MT-1. I've read where if you must use an oil rated for GL-5 in these synchronized transmissions, use one that also has an MT-1 rating. According to Valvolines website, they have started selling as of September a synchromesh oil that is safe for synchronizers and other yellow metals.
     
  10. Dec 29, 2012
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Do you have a book like this? All is written, I found it on Amazon, it is an old used book.
    I am in France, but it comes from a a library in USA.

    It is a CHilton 53-73 and that was cheap. There is a chapter abour routine maintenance, I cannot copy pages with my phone but for sure somebody has one and can help you. There are a lot of work to do and all is explained inside.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Dec 30, 2012
    r_unda

    r_unda Member

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    Thanks! Just ordered!
     
  12. Dec 30, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Just a comment.

    While the Chilton's and Haynes manuals seem like a good deal, I would advise to avoid them. They cover many years and models, are full of errors, and do not have the depth and detail of the factory manuals. You should buy the factory service manual (FSM; Jeep calls it the TSM technical service manual) for your year. The '74 TSM I linked to above is very close to the proper manual for your Jeep, the '73 TSM. However, there will be differences between ''73 and '74, mostly in the Wagoneer and Truck models, and in the the emissions systems.

    The TSM is the single best resource for your Jeep. Invest in a TSM for your year. If you study it, it will reward you handsomely with accurate and in-depth knowledge.
     
  13. Dec 30, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I use the GL-4/GL-5 gear oil in a gallon jug from Walmart. Works fine.

    Modern conventional motor oils may not be the best choice for flat tappet engines (like in your Jeep). Conventional multivis motor oils are formulated differently today than they were at the time the manual was written. I use 15W40 Shell Rotella motor oil for diesel engines in my Jeeps. Google "ZDDP in motor oil" for more discussion than you could ever read. I also recommend a Wix (Napa is Wix) or Delco oil filter, sp. something other than Fram. There is also a lot of discussion of oil filters on the net.
     
  14. Dec 30, 2012
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Do you believe that it exist also for my Jeep CJ5 1971?

    The old Chilton is interesting because it is a 73, so there is no other models.
    I have alos a new Chilton but effectively all models are mixed and difficult to find the good baby.
    My Chilton 73 is from Parkland College LRC.
     
  15. Dec 30, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    [​IMG]

    This one is sold at www.thejeep.com P/N TSM-LATE- There are also manuals that were printed back in the day that are specific to your year. I believe these are not being reprinted today, and you'll have to find one on eBay or through a used book store. But the TSM-LATE should be a big help.
     
  16. Dec 30, 2012
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I have registered the address. My problem is -first- that to read technical english is not se easy, and we work in mm, not 3/9 7/16 ... which is more difficult.

    The other problem is that I have a 71 CJ5, the fuel tank is at the rear, some parts are like the old Willys, it is made in Toledo, I don't find the exact infos when I look in books. There is one lever to change from 2 wheels to 4 wheels fast and slow, and some Jeep have 2 levers.

    TO get the goo book is not so easy. I'll try this cy. This Jeep was sold with the hard top (Meyer) no canvas roof. It takes time to understand and rebuild when necessary. Thanks for help.
     
  17. Dec 30, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Remember 25.4 mm = 1 inch. Might help "some" when trying to convert.


    Sent from my iPhone
     
  18. Dec 31, 2012
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    That's true, but when you are in action repairing, sometimes you dont have a calculating machine. It works in both ways of course but frankly speaking, sometimes I stop all because it's too difficult to always convert and check!
     

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