Rear Body Mounts (Long as Usual)

Well...I'm just about finished making the new crossmember.

I'm using a piece of heavy 4" C-Channel and of course you all know the original crossmember has a section in the center that's narrowed by about 1/2".

I torched out this 1/2" leaving the top flange of the channel and heated the top flange and beat it down to give me this 1/2". It looks really good. Just have to have that welded back together and grind it off and I'm good to go.

It should look just like the original (or very close) except be super sturdy.

Problem is...when I took the old crossmember off, two of the body mounts (and there's only 4) just fell to the ground. They were broke and serving no purpose.

These rear body mounts are basically small pieces of 1-1/2" flanged metal that are bent in the shape of an "L".

The pieces of the mounts that are still attached to the jeep are tack welded and it's almost impossible to get to them to remove them for replacing in the exact spot.

I knew I had at least one broken mount because on the trails it was bouncing around really bad and I had installed some plates to the rear of the jeep...bolted to the body and to the crossmember to solve this. Some of you saw these @ Tellico. Wish I had a picture.

I'm re-installing these same plates and right now I intend to use these plates as my only body mounts in the rear.

The original had 4 mounts spaced evenly across the back, and currently I have two mounts, but...each of these plates is about 7" wide and there are 4 bolts (2 top & 2 bottom) in each one.

Is this OK? or do I need to add to it.

FWIW,...it's held like this pretty good with no signs of wear for a while. Even through tellico with alot of twisting in May.

 

I'm only using two mounts in the rear. I made mine out of angle iron and thru bolted them. Been in for about three years with no problems.

 

I also only have two body mounts in the rear, and I haven't had any problems with it.

 

John: Here's what the PO did on mine. When I got it only one mount remained on the pass side that had rubber in it. It was still the orig stamped one. The two center ones were broken off and the one in the pic that the PO made was missing it's rubber.

So I had a friend make me 2 more. Just use 1 1/4" x 3/16" strap iron and drill the holes. The 2 center ones and the drivers side one are mounted thru the body with SS button heads. The strap iron fits nicely into the channel of the orig stamped mounts.

Easy to do and works great.

 

Great pic Jim.

I could do that easily and as a matter of fact, I think I will.

I have some flat bar (I think) that will work fine.

 

John: Here's a pic of what it looks like from behind. If you look closely, you can see the 6 SS buttonheads. The one on the left is the one the PO did. The 2 center ones I did. The pass side is still the orig.

The best way to do it is cut a piece of thin cardboard 1 1/16" wide and fold it into an L. Then place it in the channel and mark your holes. On the tub side, be carefull to keep them below the tailgate. Cut your template to the proper length and transfer to the back of pre bent L's of strap iron. Then cut to length, mark and drill your holes in the L bracket, then transfer to the tub and drill your holes.

Easy as pie!

 

I can do that Jim. Thanks again.

Although, I believe that my current system using the two plates may be all I need.

The only problem will be the fact that it's a rigid mount with no bushing in it.

But...like I said. I had it this way for two trips to Tellico twisting it up pretty good in places with no trouble.

Thanks for the pics.

If the brackets don't work, I know what to do.

It's also good to know I'm not the only one who's had this problem.