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Drive train alignment

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by John A. Shows, Oct 18, 2004.

  1. John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    I started this from another thread, (Revisit tilted springs) but basically the question or complaint rather is that my tranny just doesn't sit in the center of my body.

    I believe it's offset to the side at least 1" maybe more.

    Right now the stick shift comes through the floor about 1" to 1-1/2" to the right.

    This has an effect on the clutch bellcrank in that I have to have the same 1" of spacers/washers between the bellcrank pivot stud and the frame to keep the bellcrank from popping off the stud under hard flex.

    It happened to Worth @ Tellico, and it's happened to me a few times.

    I've had people tell me to just push it over and bolt it down @ the crossmember, but that just doesn't seem right. It seems to me it ought to sit relaxed in the dead center of the jeep, and the bolted connection @ the crossmember would be to hold it up and down as opposed to left and right.

    The only thing I can think of is to take the pass side fender off, and cut the pass side engine mount loose from the frame,....slide the engine over and then re-weld the mount back to the frame in the right spot.

    Anyone concur with this, or should I just leave it like it is?
     
  2. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Have you checked the tranny Mount ?
     
  3. John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Yeah, there really aint much to check on the tranny mount. It's bolted down good and it's a new mount, but when you bolt the tranny to the engine it's sort of locked in a spot (left to right). Trying to move it left and right with it bolted to the engine just aint happening.

    I guess with a pry bar I could move it some, but it doesn't seem right to force this type of lateral stress on the engine/tranny connection and then bolt it down and try to hold it there.

    I was thinking I need to move the whole assembly from the engine all the way through the t-case.
     
  4. Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    When you do a V6 swap they tell you to mount the engine offset to the passenger side -- I'm figuring for steering/exhaust clearance on the driver's side and front driveshaft to the passenger side.

    I'd do a whole lotta looking and measureing before shifting an entire drivetrain over...esp. when it's not a homebrew swap job.

    Are you sure it's not the body that's shifted?
     
  5. John A. Shows

    John A. Shows Comic Relief

    Not sure at all, Mike and I've thought about that too. In fact I once measured the distance from the inside of one tire to the fender well on the pass side and the same on the driver's side and you're correct...there was a difference, but it would have an even more adverse affect on the alignment if I were to shift it over.

    I'm familiar with offsetting the engine in the bay, but that's not what I'm describing. I'm talking about twisting the engine. I wouldn't be removing the mount on the drivers side...only the pass side.

    There's a solid connection starting at the engine all the way to the t-case and I want to basically cut one mount loose and grab the t-case and slide it to the left 1" and then re-weld the engine mount.
     
  6. Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    John the engine will move around some on the mounts themselves, try loosening the mounts on the engine where they tie into the frame as well the transmission and move things around and then tighten everything back up. I wouldn't cut your mount loose from the frame at all, you stand more of a chance of mesing things up than fixing things, unless your gonna take the body off where you can see everything all at once. (my.02)
     
  7. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Mcruff is right - unless your gonna pull the body for a clear view and measure - think several times (been there, made that mistake).

    FWIW - I always mount the drive train together, bolt up the Tranny/Tcase Xmember (to frame) and then position and weld motor mounts. And that's after lookin at the space for drive lines and such (quick bolt up of parts for a dry run). I fought with one like your discribing and ended up just pulling it and redoing it with new motor mounts and a new Xmember (see above mistake for start of domino effect)... Could have saved myself alot of time just doing it from the start, but then this was gonna be a 'short cut'. :rofl:
     
  8. william_cj3b

    william_cj3b 3BOB driver

    All of my 5's and both Jeepsters had the engine/trans/transfer offset to the passenger side a little. I think they were done that way to clear Ross stearing boxes.