No Spark (Dauntless V6)

I just brought this Jeep home. It had been at my brothers for about 6 months. When it was over at his shop, it would fire up and idle (poorly).
Once I got it home, it wouldn't start. I figured now would be a good time to send the Carb out for rebuild. I got the carb back and still no start. I determined it wasn't getting any fuel while the carb was out. I had a spare fuel pump around so that solved the fuel issue.
I cranked and cranked while messing with the timing and got it to run for a few seconds a couple times.
I decided to test the spark. It seemed super weak, I actually sparked myself and barely felt it. My buddy had a spare coil so I swapped that in, no spark at all. I figured his coil was bad, I picked up a new coil today and still no spark.

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0446.jpg

The previous owner left a new ballast resistor so I cleaned up the firewall and replaced the old one and also replaced the wiring connectors too.

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0445.jpg

I have +12v at the battery. +12v at the one side of the resistor, +6.5v at the other side. +6.5 at the + side of the coil and the - side seems grounded properly.

The Cap, Rotor, Condenser, Points all look new. I can get pics if they will help. I put a HEI in my other Jeep the first time the points gave me trouble so I have ZERO experience with the Delco distributor and points.

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0452.jpg
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0451.jpg
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0450.jpg
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0449.jpg
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0448.jpg
http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/mfuchs33/Jeepster/DSC_0447.jpg

What is my next move?

 

That thing you put on the firewall you call a voltage regulator is actually a ballast resistor. Now if you use a ballast resistor you must use a coil that states on it in print (FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY). Now if you have the coil with the internal resistor then simply put all the wires on the ballast resistor on just one terminal for a test run. Does it start?

 

Walt, you're correct, I got my terminology mixed up. I will edit my post to read ballast resistor, I also DO have a coil that reads exactly what you posted.

 

OK! Your next move is to install a wire on the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid (the one to the outside away from the engine) the other small stud that doesn't already have a wire on it, and run it up to the + pos terminal on the coil. This applies a full 12v to the coil while cranking and gives the coil that extra shock.

 

I was thinking it was suspicious that a known good coil and a brand new coil would both exhibit the exact same behavior of no spark. I put the original ballast resistor back in place and ran the wire you described, Walt. I turned the key and it coughed once like it wanted to fire and then went back to just turning over and not trying to start. I pulled the plug wire and had my wife turn the key and we are back to a really weak spark again. What's next?

 

Are you sure the timing is correct?
are the points clean and set at .016"
timing with the Delco dist is set at 5* BTDC.
Look down throat of carb and push the throttle open. Observe that you are getting two good squirts of fuel.
If all above is correct and working, it should start.

 

I'll track down a timing light tomorrow. Rookie question: How do I make sure the points are clean and set at .016?

I have verified the 2 good squirts of fuel are coming into the rebuilt carb.

 

Put the engine on TDC with compression on nr#1 cylinder. I would remove the points ( 2 screws) for close inspection. The two wires are held on by pressure from the spring only. Make sure the wire ends are clean (no rust or corrosion) and the breaker plate wire to ground has a clean connection as well. If all the above is good then re-assemble. With the dist hold down bolt loosened just to the point that you can rotate the distributor, move the dist so the cam lobe opens the points to their widest gap. Lock down the dist hold down bolt so dist doesn't move (not completely tight). Insert allen wrench into points hex socket and adjust points to .016 with feeler gauge. You should feel a slight resistance on the feeler gauge while sliding it in and out between the points. The points are now set. Re-assemble remainder of dist and wires. Start engine. Fine tune.

 

I know this is probably super dumb, but if that is a Dauntless isn't that distributor wrong for an odd-fire?

 

no, not at all.
what makes you think otherwise ?
Delco and Prestolite were both used from the factory.

 

I got my hands on a timing light but it wasn't strobing so I'm not sure what was wrong with it. I did like Walt said and found TDC on #1, I removed the points, inspected them for cleanliness, made sure the wires were all making good connections, and set the points gap, then I pulled the spark plugs and cleaned and re-gapped all of them. When I was putting the rotor back on I noticed that it was pointing to #4 and not #1 like I assumed it would be with me having found TDC. Anyway, I turned the key and it fired instantly and ran very poorly for about 20 seconds and then wouldn't start up again. Does the rotor pointing to #4 indicate that the distributor is 180 degrees out? the #4 and the #1 are 180 degrees from each other on the cap. When I say #1 and #4 I am referring to the fact that this distributor cap has all the posts labeled and I verified that each post was running to the correct cylinder too.

 

When you found TDC did you just use the timing marks or did tou pull a spark plug or what? Could be that #1 is @ TDC, only on exhaust stroke.

 

I pulled a spark plug. How do you tell the difference between intake and exhaust strokes?

 

If you haven't pulled out the dist. And it was running before, not likely you are 180 out. Pull the right valve cover and the valves should be closed. If not, turn the ctank one revolution while watching the valves on #1. You should see tem close. Hope this Helps.

 

sounds like a bad condenser to me, weak spark, run for a few seconds and dies. i would pick one up, they are cheep, and its a good idea to pack a spare with you anyway.

 

My odd-fire has the staggered distributor cap towers. I thought that was part and parcel to the set-up.

 

I haven't pulled the distributor but I've only owned this Jeep for a couple months and I am just now trying to get it running properly. I'm trying to not assume anything.

I will pick up a condensor today. It didn't look as new as the points when I had it out yesterday.

 

I did see one odd fire that had the rotor screwed on 180* out. Square locator on the cap in the round hole on the distributor. I found the distributor had been put in 180* out and the guy had corrected his mistake by switching the rotor. Yes it ran fine but he cracked the cap when he screwed it down. Thats the only way I knew something was amiss. It was a head scratcher tho.

 

Okay, I used the timing marks and put the Jeep in 3rd gear and rolled it back until the marks indicated TDC. Then, I pulled the #1 plug and verified the piston was all the way up. Then I popped the distributor cap off and the rotor was indeed pointing at #4. I pulled the distributor and rotated it until the rotor would be pointing at #1 and put everything back and still no start. I also put in a new condenser and now the timing light strobes but still no start. Lots of cranking but no fire. It tried to start more when the distributor was 180 out than now? I'm guessing at this point I ought to pull the plugs and clean them again with all this cranking and no fire?

 

you have effectively put the dist 180° out. it was said earlier in this thread that the engine turns two complete turns to the dist & camshafts one turn. it is a 4 stroke engine! which means when the piston is @ TDC and the timing marks are lined up it is either the compression stroke or exaust stroke