SBC headers and steering conversion

Currently I still have the Ross steering and I'm running a Chevy 283 with centerdump manifolds with the exhaust running inside the framerails. The exhaust has been on there for 10+ years and is getting pretty crappy and I want headers anyway. It's also time to get rid of the original steering. I think I'm going to end up going with Herm's setup with the reverse rotation Ford box. My winch mount is in the way of a Saginaw swap. I want to keep the original steering column so I'm going to have to invent a shaft with a few u-joints to go from the bottom of the original column up to the Ford box (not really an issue, done this a lot with race cars). The issue comes in with interference with the exhaust. I have to do both of these swaps at the same time. I don't want to run shorty headers and pretty much anything else will hit the current drag link from the Ross box to the bellcrank. I found these that are actually for a Model A, but according to the measurements it looks like they'll drop straight down inside the framerails and turn back in almost the exact right spot: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Block-Chevy-Chassis-Headers,3828.html . My major concern is that I'm not going to have enough room to get the steering shaft around the headers to the Ford box and don't really want to spend a lot of money on parts that aren't going to play well together. Has anyone ever done what I have in mind here? Anyone have pics of longtube headers on their Jeep? Any pics of the Herm steering box swap with the original steering column? Is this really just Mission Impossible?

 

Fender well dump Hooker 9810's will clear all if you want to go the route.

 

I thought about fenderwells, but I really want to keep the exhaust inside the framerails. That way I can keep it routed out the back to try to keep some of the noise out of my ear. I think having the exhaust exit in front of the rear wheel would be really obnoxious for long trips. This thing has a pretty good bark to it :twisted:

 

I’ve got the Hooker fender well headers and when I was running 2” with glass packs had no troubles running it out the back along the frame rails.
I’ve since gotten rid of the reducer so I could run 3” all the way back through a pair of Flow Masters. When building this exhaust we transitioned from outside to inside the frame rails at the rear wheel arch just because it didn’t look like there was room enough for 3” to fit outside the frame rails without the tires rubbing it some.
Point is running fender well headers doesn’t mean you can’t run the exhaust on out the back if that’s what you want.

 

Got any photos of the exhaust routing, please??

 

Yeah, I'd like to see that too. I've rubbed the tires on the inside of the rear wheelwells so I don't know how routing the exhaust anywhere near the rear tires would go...

 

Thanks lynn. That's what I had envisioned, but it helps a lot to actually see it. If I'm not mistaken, I bought a Ross box from you a million years ago that came out of your Jeep. That's the one I'm working on replacing now.
Any idea if those headers your buddy used were custom built or for another application?

 

I’ll snap some pictures and post them but it’ll be this weekend before I can get around to it.

 

This weekend is just fine, sure do appreciate it.

 

Pics will be awesome. Thanks in advance

 

I did Herm's steering conversion on my 57. I also have a 283 SBC. I chose to run block hugger headers and changed to an Ididit steering column. I had to use a few links to get the steering lined up. When you do it, there might be some issues with the tie rod setup (which way to mount the tie rods, interference with spring wraps). I have some info on what I did when you get there. I have a lot of pics. just IM me and I will get you some info if you need it.
Paul

 

Here you go, from the back anyway.
I'll try to get a better side shot tonight.



You may notice that the diff. housing is just kissing the tube on the right side. I do plan to cut it loose and rotate it up to get it out of the way but I also have other, hotter fires burning.

 

Thanks for the photo, I do not think this setup will work for me however, as I am running a rear tank.

But, it does give me some ideas to mull over.

Appreciate it.

 

Hmmm... Might work in my application. The side shot might be more helpful. What diameter pipe is that?

 

3". 2-2.5" would probably fit easier but the headers have 3" collectors so I wanted to go 3" all the way back.
I'll snap a picture at lunch and get it downloaded.

 

Cool. A pic of your engine bay would be great too. Thanks!

 

Will do.

 

Just my opinion, but I think setting up the steering linkage properly is WAY more important than what you do with the exhaust. When I look at Lynn's pics, all I see are a bunch of extra pieces to go bad-positioned way to close to the headers which is going to melt the grease right out of those u-joints.

Design the steering for the least amount of componets and then find/build the headers to clear it. A lot of people do not like fender dumps, but they really do solve a lot of problems. A little header wrap will eliminate the under-hood heat issues.

I also thought about running my pipes to the rear but also knew I wanted a rear tank which pretty much eliminates rear exit pipes. As to pipe diameter, if you are not planning a 7k rpm motor where bigger might be better, stick with 2.25 or 2.5" diameter. You will get more bottom end torque. A cross-over tube also works well (more low end torque and a bit less noise) but they are a PITA when working of the drive train and even make greasing the front driveshaft u-joint problematic.