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What is the easiest way to clean up a torched "line" and make it straight??

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by DanStew, Dec 24, 2004.

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  1. Dec 24, 2004
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    I might not have worded it correctly, but i torched out an angle cut from a piece of plate steel. so i have to clean it up now, my hand wasnt the steadiest when cutting so i need to make it straight again. How would i go about doing so with a grinder?? I thoguht bout putting a straight peice of metal along the side as a guide but i know i will cut into it. Or is that the way to do it and i actually wont mess the guide peice of steel up that quickly.

    Thanks!
     
    DanStew, Dec 24, 2004
    #1
  2. Dec 24, 2004
    duke54

    duke54 Member

    JACKMAN MAINE
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    straight peice of metal along the side as a guide ;)
     
    duke54, Dec 24, 2004
    #2
  3. Dec 24, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Got a chop saw?

    Use the side of the blade...
     
    Boyink, Dec 24, 2004
    #3
  4. Dec 24, 2004
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    soapstone line and a cutoff wheel your grinder
     
    jd7, Dec 24, 2004
    #4
  5. Dec 24, 2004
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    File? (Ducking)
     
    scott milliner, Dec 24, 2004
    #5
  6. Dec 24, 2004
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
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    Clamp a straight piece onto the place and then torch along it.

    I think that they make a small wheel thing that clamps onto the torch tip. This acts not only as a guide but it maintains the proper tip to workpiece distance.
     
    Project71-5, Dec 24, 2004
    #6
  7. Dec 24, 2004
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    Soapstone line and then a grinder.
    If its real ragged looking use a sawsall to make a new cut. ;)
     
    BlueFlu, Dec 24, 2004
    #7
  8. Dec 25, 2004
    BigBill

    BigBill New Member

    ct
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    I like to use at least a 3/8" thick piece of steel for a guide rail when i'm torching I also hold the torch level while having an angle forward towards the direction i'm going to cut this way the metal in front gets pre heated too and you cut much faster too. Just remember to wear welding gloves "safety first". Being a welder I got accustomed to getting burned and now I wait till it burns really bad before i realize i burned!!! Trust me i've looked like a candle melting thats not a pretty sight so make sure you wear gloves and a leather jacket if you have one too!! And keep your feet away from the sparks too. BigBill
     
    BigBill, Dec 25, 2004
    #8
  9. Dec 26, 2004
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    I use a piece of 1" angle as a torch guide. Clamp one side of the angle to the work piece and you have a nice 1" tall guide for the torch. If it's really bad, you might just want to re-torch it with a guide
     
    Southtowns27, Dec 26, 2004
    #9
  10. Dec 26, 2004
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
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    save the flap wheel for detail, get a grinding wheel. does a better rough job than flapper. depending on how bad your cut is, you can torch off the big end.

    almost forgot, when cutting, mark your line so that you cut straighter. tip i learned in high school welding/metal shop.
     
    66cj5, Dec 26, 2004
    #10
  11. Dec 26, 2004
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Thanks guys for the tips. I got the cut pretty straight wit the grinder, it is not perfect, but only if you are looing real close with a microscope. I will use the angle iron ideal next time, defiantely be better than my shakey hand ;) One thing i noticed is that you mark your line with a pencil, and the torch doesnt readily destroy the line when you get it hot, so it makes it easier to see it when cutting :)
     
    DanStew, Dec 26, 2004
    #11
  12. Dec 28, 2004
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    Another easy way to mark a line is to use a chalk line then shoot a light coat of clear on it.
     
    BlueFlu, Dec 28, 2004
    #12
  13. Dec 28, 2004
    Jerry M

    Jerry M Jerry M

    Veneta Oregon
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    use a piece ove pipe then the torch will work better. I have pipe weld to a piece of angle iron so tit lay flat and dosen't roll.

    Jerry
     
    Jerry M, Dec 28, 2004
    #13
  14. Dec 30, 2004
    willysnut

    willysnut Banned

    Newnan, Ga.
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    Can you say plasma?
     
    willysnut, Dec 30, 2004
    #14
  15. Dec 31, 2004
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
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    been useing dad's for awhile. prefer it over gas on thin steel (less than 1/4").
     
    66cj5, Dec 31, 2004
    #15
  16. Jan 2, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    An old hot rodder trick to flame-cut brackets and such is similar to the ideas listed above, only a little better:

    Find a plumbing fitting that will friction-fit over the outside of the burning tip, one that will leave about 1/4" of the tip sticking out. Reducing fitting seem to work best. Then clamp your guide onto the work with vise-grip welding clamps, putting some large nuts in between the guide and the work, so that there is about 1/2" - 5/8" gap between the two. Check the clearance by sliding the fitting on the torch tip along the guide, leaving the tip to ride along the guide and using the fitting as a rest. The guide will ride along in the notch created by the fitting.

    Works slicker than owl snot! ;)
     
    w3srl, Jan 2, 2005
    #16
  17. May 22, 2013
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    A $250 horz/vert bandsaw from ENCO is also a very good option. IMO, a lot more versatile than either a torch or plasma (unless you have a CNC version) for a very modest investment. Lets you cut a lot of material where heat is not a good thing-like aluminum and brass.


    When I was setting up my shop in the 70's, a vertical bandsaw was the third big item purchased, right behind the mill and lathe. That same saw is still at work 40 years later and I would not hesitate to put another $2500 into one if I was doing it again.
     
    duffer, May 22, 2013
    #17
  18. May 22, 2013
    hudsonhawk

    hudsonhawk Well-Known Member

    North Texas...
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    I have to admit that Duffer has a point. The band saw was great when I was building my trailer frame. Clean cut with just a little bevelling needed to get ready to weld.
     
    hudsonhawk, May 22, 2013
    #18
  19. May 22, 2013
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Well-Known Member

    moorestown, nj
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    Never used a band saw on metal, only wood. i did happen to find a Like new plasma cutter on CL for $150 from a guy who didn't know what it was worth. even had a brand new extra torch and torch hose. best deal of the year for me, its amazing how clean and easy it cuts,
     
    GeoffreyL, May 22, 2013
    #19
  20. May 22, 2013
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

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    Holy Old Post Batman ;)
     
    DanStew, May 22, 2013
    #20
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