1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Brake swap woes

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Jeepenstein, Dec 29, 2004.

  1. Dec 29, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
    Messages:
    2,159
    My D-27 disc brake swap went ok cept for one thing that ain't right.. the rotor seems to not be centered in the right place in teh caliper.. I know moving calliper.. problem is the pad on the inside is riding kinda hard on the disc.. I have no clue what year the calipers are from the chevy i robbed of the parts had no body.. anyhow I have heard mention of a "spacer" which I am assuming goes behind the inside bearing to move the whole hub outward in relation to the backing plate. Is this the way to go or is there a "proper" year of caliper I am supposed to use, I would think that most of the chevys are the same.. Guessing I would say these parts are from an early 80's model..



    BUBBA
     
    Jeepenstein, Dec 29, 2004
    #1
  2. Dec 29, 2004
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    492
    yup, you need to either fund the beraing that has the spacer built into the race, or make a little spacer, or sand off some of the brake pad to help it clear back there a little bit. at the time i did the latter, but when i start going through things again i'll replace it with the bearing.

    other than that i don't recall needing a specific caliper....
     
    gte636p, Dec 29, 2004
    #2
  3. Dec 29, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
    Messages:
    2,159
    That's what I tho9ugh.. guess I'll go the spacer route unless someone has a part # for the one with the spacer built it!


    BUBBA
     
    Jeepenstein, Dec 29, 2004
    #3
  4. Dec 29, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    Scott- Try the inner bearing race from a Jeep with a Dana 30 frontend. I haven't tried it since I still have the '25 in front, but I'm told that they have the extra 1/8" on the outboard edge, which kicks the hub in that same amount. If your FLAPS has them on the self, I would compare the two side-by-side and see if this is true. Please let me know if it is, and I'll update my article accordingly!
     
    w3srl, Dec 29, 2004
    #4
  5. Dec 29, 2004
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,525
    does rotor thickness come in to play here?
    the rotors on mine are 7/8" thick
    there is also the 1 3/16 thickness I believe
    maybe the bearing would solve the problem
     
    jpflat2a, Dec 29, 2004
    #5
  6. Dec 29, 2004
    gte636p

    gte636p Member

    smyrna, Ga
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    492
    you want the bigger rotor, and the bearing that steve mentioned. i don't know the difference in thickness, but you're just looking to space the hub out that tiny bit that's causing the interference you have.

    steve's the man though, he basically walked me through mine 2 years ago. i had all the part numbers that weren't listed on the static portion of this page but have since lost them...
     
    gte636p, Dec 29, 2004
    #6
  7. Dec 29, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    Aw shucks! :oops: <kicking dirt with toe>

    Actually, I forgot to mention the rotor thickness. The 7/8" thick ones absolutely will not work with the stock D 25/27 bearings and races. You need the 1-1/8" thick rotors from a '77-'78 CJ.

    Edit: I'm sorry guys, I honestly can't remember for sure. Looking through a parts catalog, I'm now thinking that the correct bearing race to center the rotor when using the 7/8" thick rotor is the '65-'76 Dana 27 unit. Now that I've had some time to think about it, I *think* the Dana 30 is too big in diameter.
    When I did mine, I used the thicker rotors and it all lined up perfectly with the stock Dana 25 bearings and races.
     
    w3srl, Dec 29, 2004
    #7
  8. Dec 29, 2004
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    In November 2001 issue of JP magazine they do a write up on converting a D25 to discs. Their parts are: Calipers '71 - 78 Chevy 1/2 ton 4 x 4, Caliper brackets '73 - '91 1/2 ton Chevy, Rotors '77 - '78 CJ (1 1/8" thick)Longer wheel studs Dornan PN 610106. They mounted the disc behind the flange of the hub. The wheel studs go through the disk and then through the hub flange. Some grinding of the knuckle is required to allow the caliper to operate properly and the oil fill plug is changed to a flush mount type.
     
    Posimoto, Dec 29, 2004
    #8
  9. Dec 29, 2004
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,349
    When using the 1 1/8" thick rotor you need to use the inner bearing race that goes to the dana 30 front axle. The hubs on all the dana 25, 27 and 30 axles are the same casting basically. The bearing race is approximately 1/8" thicker on the dana 30 inner race and the outer race is the same on all 3 axles.
     
    Mcruff, Dec 29, 2004
    #9
  10. Dec 29, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    There you have it! Thanks Mike. I'm glad one of us still has some brain cells left!!! R)
     
    w3srl, Dec 29, 2004
    #10
  11. Dec 29, 2004
    Jerry M

    Jerry M Jerry M

    Veneta Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2004
    Messages:
    45
    On my 74 I had to put a 3/16 spacer behind the bearing all 4 wheel . i used scout rotors and chevy backing plates.

    Jerry m
     
    Jerry M, Dec 29, 2004
    #11
  12. Dec 30, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
    Messages:
    2,159
    I have the right 1-1/8 rotors and all and I have everything mounted.. so I am good there it is just the spacing issue, so it sounds as if the D-30 bearing race is the way to go. Just to make sure we are all on the same page it is the race that is pressed into the hub? or is it the race that is part of the actual bearing? And if it is the race in the hub do I need the D-30 bearing also or can I re use the old bearing (I just replaced all of them!)


    BUBBA
     
    Jeepenstein, Dec 30, 2004
    #12
  13. Dec 30, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    You are correct Scott, the race is the tapered ring that you seat inside the hub. That is the wear surface that the tapered roller bearings ride in.

    I can't be certain, but I *think* the original bearing will work.
     
    w3srl, Dec 30, 2004
    #13
  14. Dec 30, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
    Messages:
    2,159
    I just realized how dumb that was they only sell in sets... DUH!
     
    Jeepenstein, Dec 30, 2004
    #14
  15. Dec 30, 2004
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,349
    it is the race that presses into the hub. The bearings are the same.
     
    Mcruff, Dec 30, 2004
    #15
  16. Dec 30, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    Not true! You can buy the races separate from the bearings. Some places refer to the races as a 'bearing cup'. I bought all mine from KRAGE and they were stock items. Your FLAPS *might* have them on the shelf!
     
    w3srl, Dec 30, 2004
    #16
  17. Dec 30, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
    Messages:
    2,159
    so far I am not having much luck, just got back from napa and the parts books there are a bit screwy.. so far all I can find is a race that is .620 instead of the .580 in there now with a difference of .040.. it'll work but I was hoping for more.. still digging though..


    BUBBA
     
    Jeepenstein, Dec 30, 2004
    #17
  18. Dec 30, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
    Messages:
    2,159
    OK I am having no luck with finding a place that will show me the dimensions of the bearings on the web.. I have several part numbers but I have yet to find any reference on the web to get the dimensi0ons.. more digging!

    BUBBA
     
    Jeepenstein, Dec 30, 2004
    #18
  19. Dec 30, 2004
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep.. 2024 Sponsor

    North Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
    Messages:
    2,159
    Got it! According to various online parts houses the OEM style part numbers are (timken) 15245 (cup) and 15123 (cone). Using that I found this.. http://www.timken.com/timken_ols/bearings/GST/web_gst/BearingSearchTRB.asp Which if you look in the width column you can extrapolate that cup 15244 is .062 wider than OEM (.777 vs .715). I also figger that if I make a .060 or so shim to go behind the cup that I can get 1/8" which is exactly where I wanna be!


    Cool huh..


    BUBBA
     
    Jeepenstein, Dec 30, 2004
    #19
New Posts