Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Warloch, Nov 8, 2017.
But mine is a 15gal rear tank - like a '78 -86 I think.
One of those came with my Jeep....one less thing to order or worry about. Guess the OEM Tuxedo Park chrome one got tossed long ago?
So....I have a feeling that you more knowledgeable guys/gals might talk me into buying and running steel lines instead of just using the EFI hose that came with the Sniper....?
It's considered safer to run metal lines. There are less likely to get cut or abraded. The rules for most types of racing only allow for 18" or so total rubber line at the ends where some flex is required. Metal everywhere else. That seems like good practice to follow.
For easy bending, you can get NiCopp tubing in appropriate sizes for fuel lines.
Steel for fuel line is not that hard, compared to brake lines. I have this bender Four-In-One Tube Bender | Robinair and it works well on steel or nicopp. Use the first half of a double flare end to put a bulge on the end of the tubing.
Looking, nicopp is only about a 50% premium over steel. eBay is the best source, I've found - Copper Nickel Brake Fuel Line Tubing Kit 3/8 OD 25 Ft Coil Roll INLINE TUBE CN6 | eBay
Thanks guys. I think I should be all set with the tools I invested in to do the brake lines. And, I have an extra roll of 3/16" galvanized that I can use to make a rough mockup. Plus I should be able to offset and double up the P-clips through the holes that hold the brake line in the LH fame rail so I don't add more swiss cheese. Better to do this all now before the body is on.
Amazon.com: The Stop Shop Roll of 3/8" Copper Nickel Fuel / Transmission Line (.375) 25 Feet : Automotive
is it generally good practice to secure the steel lines to the block itself via any open unused threaded holes?
So...I too pulled the trigger on a sniper system with a holley in-tank pump for my rear 15 gallon tank. I was originally planning on using steel and hose, but I had a hard time figuring out the fittings to do the hose/steel transition since the pressures are so much higher -- what are people using for the transition?
These are the fittings from hose to An6 Threads:
Earl's Performance 750166ERL Earl's Performance Vapor Guard Hose Ends | Summit Racing
And these are the fittings from 3/8" tube to AN-6 Threads:
Earl's Performance AT165006ERL Earl's Performance Tube Adapter Fittings | Summit Racing
I will be doing a separate thread dedicated to my Sniper install with all part numbers when I get a bit further along and gain confidence about the install. I debated getting the in-tank pump but stuck with the stock tank and the external pump.
The cap would then have a two-way check valve.
Summit racing has the instructions in the tabs Here is one:
"If using steel line, the hose (Item 2) can be used to connect the steel line to the pump and filters. You should not connect a rubber hose directly to a steel line unless the end of the line has a “bead/nipple” or barb that retains the hose. If the steel line is just cut off, purchase a compression fitting that a barbed hose end can be installed on, or use a tool to roll a bead/nipple on the end of the steel line."
I’ll use one of my existing steel lines. There is high pressure EFI hose that I’ll use for the connections. Simple flares on the pipe ends.
Assuming your filler neck is from that vintage, you can search for 1980 Cj5 caps on Rock Auto. They list vented options for both normal and locking caps.
I used most of the factory steel lines with short rubber hose. The vent is a roll over vent value. And the purpose of the vacuum line from the carbon canister to the TBI. Is to remove the fumes from the carbon canister after the charcoal filter process. From the pictures, you can see I have two vent values.
Do the instructions mentioned what to do with the throttle body return line since the in tank pump is returnless?
The sniper instructions do call for a bulkhead fitting to be installed in the tank in that situation if the sender cannot be drilled. I'ld pull the sender and use that as access to get the nut on the inside of the bulkhead fitting.
They do indeed and that’s what I did. If you have a fancy flexible socket wrench it will come in handy, otherwise either cut an old 7/8” wrench in half and weld it up with a 180 degree bend to reach up and grab the nut to tighten.
I haven’t gotten deep into the install instructions but I did ask this question to Holley Tech when I bought the system. They sold me a cap/plug to attach directly to the output.
do you have a part number? I didn't even think of that.
Was this a tech or salesman?
I don't see how that would work with the instructions I pulled. Did I post the right instructions for your units?
The issue is the regulator is after the injectors and dumps the excess out. If this is capped it will prime the pump and runs the risk of burning out the pump then the pressure to the injectors is entirely unregulated for pressure. They want no more than 3psi back pressure there.
I got the in tank Holley pump that Holley markets with the sniper system and boasts no return line. the return line wasn’t in the forefront of my thinking since I have a return line already plumbed, and my main reason for the tank pump was due to the noise, priming issues people have noted on the in-line pump.
My kit is still in the box until I can get the Jeep from our property and work on it. I have not talked to anyone at Holley about it…but you bring up a good point.
It is possible they have a pump with pressure regulation built in do you have a link.
Guys sorry if I'm rubbing shoulders a little, I just want to make sure everything is addressed now for you before you put the rigs down for the upgrade and time becomes an issue.
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