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T15 rebuild

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by OleBlue, Jun 7, 2012.

  1. Nov 1, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Thank you Brett. I will give it a try.
     
  2. Nov 1, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    No luck. When I go to 7.75 on the lower rod, I have to shorten the pedal rod up so much, I have to take the jam nuts off each heim joint. Even then, just grinds in reverse. Should my next step be to take the top back off the transmission and look inside? I'm stumped. The rods I have worked before the tear down. The only thing different in the linkage is a new bell crank, bushings, and end boots. Could the bell cranks pivot arms be at different angles or lengths and messing me up?
     
  3. Nov 1, 2012
    BrettM0352

    BrettM0352 Member

    Fort Worth, TX
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    I imagine you would feel binding if that was the case
     
  4. Nov 1, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    It will go into 2nd and 3rd with engine off and the lower rod at 7 3/4". When it was at 7 1/4", 2nd and 3rd would not go in when off.
     
  5. Nov 1, 2012
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member

    exploring the...
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    dont know if its possible but the bell crank isnt in backwards? are the two pivot arms the same length as the old ones?
     
  6. Nov 1, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    I'll be sure to check that before checking anything else.

    I did look on Novak's site, and they have the following table for troubleshooting my similar issue. I wonder about the diagnosis "Clutch disc is too large. The edge of the disc is interfering with the pressure plate assembly." I ordered mine as an 11" clutch kit from 4wd Hardware, so it came with the disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. When I installed it though, I remember thinking to myself that the disc edge and pressure plate have very little space between them.

    Symptom:
    Clutch drags. It won't release completely and the transmission grinds when shifted


    [TABLE="class: boxtext, width: 70%, align: center"]
    [TR]
    [TD="width: 50%"]Possible diagnosis
    [/TD]
    [TD="width: 50%"]Likely solution
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Linkage out of adjustment or binding
    [/TD]
    [TD]Adjust or repair linkage
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Master cylinder leaking internally
    [/TD]
    [TD]Measure master cylinder linear travel vs. slave cylinder linear travel. Replace master if excessive descrapancy
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Release arm too long for the linkage system
    [/TD]
    [TD]Determine the correct ratio (as per instructions above) and shorten the arm
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Release arm sitckout angle incorrect
    [/TD]
    [TD]Change the length of the release nearing, pivot or both, if necessary
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Release arm hits bellhousing opening preventing full travel of the arm
    [/TD]
    [TD]Grind clearance as necessary on the bellhousing
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Engine is shifting on the motor mounts, wasting linkage travel
    [/TD]
    [TD]Repair, rebuild or replace the motor mounts as necessary
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Pilot bushing binding on the input shaft. Possibly damaged at installation or resulting from a misaligned bellhousing
    [/TD]
    [TD]Replace the pilot bushing. Refer to the bellhousing alignment procedure in the Novak guide
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Input shaft pilot is "bottoming out" in the crankshaft bore
    [/TD]
    [TD]Shorten the input shaft by grinding or deepen the bore of the crank by drilling
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Clutch disc hub is damaged or assembled incorrectly
    [/TD]
    [TD]Replace the disc
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Pressure plate or cover is warped
    [/TD]
    [TD]Replace the pressure plate assembly
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Excessive run-out at the face of the flywheel
    [/TD]
    [TD]Check the crank flange for burrs and remove them, or reface the flywheel
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Incorrect flywheel to crank hub bolts. The bolt heads are driving the disc
    [/TD]
    [TD]Use the correct, special flywheel bolts
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Clutch disc is installed backwards. The bolt heads are driving the disc
    [/TD]
    [TD]Disassemble and turn the disc around
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Clutch disc is too large. The edge of the disc is interfering with the pressure plate assembly
    [/TD]
    [TD]Specify a smaller disc
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD]Clutch arm to throwout bearing retaining clip is tweaked on the bearing lip (progressive worsening)
    [/TD]
    [TD]Replace throwout bearing if damaged and reinstall the arm and clips correctly
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [/TABLE]
     
  7. Nov 1, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    The info above doesn't show up as a table in mobile format.
     
  8. Nov 2, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Interesting quandary. The bellcrank does have one arm longer than the other. Can someone please tell me if the longer arm goes to the pedal rod or the fork rod? It appears I may have installed it backwards but I don't want to swap it around until I get confirmation. The picture in the TSM shows both arms roughly the same length in the angle shown, and that is why I didn't check lengths before installing it. Thank you.
     
  9. Nov 3, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    I swapped it around anyway, with the same results. The pedal rod now rubs on the firewall opening when connected to the short arm of the bellcrank.

    I believe I either have the clutch disc in backwards or the disc edge is catching on the pressure plate. If its too big, can I use a 10.5" disc with the pressure plate that came with the 11" kit?
     
  10. Nov 4, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    I took everything back apart today, and I believe I have the clutch backwards. The picture in post 32 should go towards the flywheel. Someone doublecheck me and please correct me if this is wrong:

    RIGHT?
    [​IMG]

    WRONG?
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Nov 6, 2012
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member 2019 Sponsor

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2007
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    1,443
    On my clutch it was printed "this site toward flywheel". Sorry, don't remember which way it went.

    Since your problems are restricted to 1st and R are you sure you got your shifter fork properly down into the gear slots? I'm far from a tranny expert but the symtoms of having trouble on one side of your shift pattern has me curious.
     
  12. Nov 6, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    When I pulled everything Sunday, the forks were in the slide hub spots correctly. Since then, I have confirmed the latest pictures of the clutch above are correct. I did have the clutch disc in backwards.
     
  13. Nov 6, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    All I have to do now is pull out the pilot bushing I just replaced. The original was very worn, so it came out with my fingers. When I put everything back together the first time, I put in the new pilot bushing that came with my clutch kit. Upon disassembly to look at the clutch, the bushing's outer lip cracked and crumbled, I'm assuming from wiggling the transmission to get it out. That stinks. Now, with the new bushing that is not worn yet, it is being a pain to try to remove. I've tried the grease trick, but the OD is very tight against the crank recess it sets in.
     
  14. Nov 7, 2012
    BrettM0352

    BrettM0352 Member

    Fort Worth, TX
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    slide hammer with a 2-jaw puller?
     
  15. Nov 7, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

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    That is my next try, when I can lay my hands on one. I believe Autozone loans them out.
     
  16. Nov 7, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    20,861
    The usual trick that people cite - pack the hole with grease and drive a dowel or input shaft into the hole. The hydraulic pressure will drive the bearing out. NB I have not tried this...

    Pro mechanics would use a slide hammer. Harbor Freight sells them too.
     
    Shad Rogers likes this.
  17. Nov 7, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Yeah that grease trick is even stated in the TSM. It didn't work for me with the bushing having no wear yet.

    I went in Harbor Freight during lunch and paid the $70 for their slide hammer puller kit. I'd rather buy a tool to have it again when needed. Hopefully this one will last for more than one use. ;)
     
  18. Nov 7, 2012
    BrettM0352

    BrettM0352 Member

    Fort Worth, TX
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    I got mine from Autozone loan-a-tool for $50, plus the 2-jaw attachment at extra cost
     
  19. Nov 7, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

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    Using the slide hammer, I got the bushing out. It took a lot of effort, but its out and now I have my clutch and bell housing back together and installed. I hope to put my transmission back into place in the next day or two.
     
  20. Nov 13, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    My transmission is now back in my jeep and working great. First gear (which was the new gear I installed) is tough to get into gear sometimes, but it is getting easier. The rebuild solved my problem with popping out of first gear. I also found a top with slightly worn shift forks that I swapped in.
     

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