Dana 30 problems

Does anyone tell me the proper procedure to replace the u joints on the d 30 axle, Mine appear to be wore. One thing is I want to have all the parts I need before I start. As you all know sometimes finding parts in a hurry for the 74 CJ is not all that easy.
Thanks

 

You may want to pick up the factory service manual for that one. Removing the axle to get to the u-joint gets you through all the wheel bearings and seals to get there. If those have not been done, you may want to consider that as well...at least the seals if not the bearings too.

I'm about to finish my axle bearings, seals, u-joints, and ball joints. I decided to just do the whole thing since I was into it that deep.

If you've ever heard of the book, "If you give a mouse a cookie...", then you'll understand what happens once you start taking it apart.

 

yeah what he said:iagree:

 

I've replaced the wheel bearings and races both inner and outer along with the seals for them. I know how to get that far again, are there any more seals or gaskets that I would need? I want to order the ball joints and u joints but don't want to miss anything else I might need.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks

 

you're got to remove the spindle and brake backing plate.
you might consider the spindle bearings and seals (kit) and axle seals.
the axle seals are inside the tube and serviced only by removing the diff case assy.
When reinstalling the axle shafts, one must be careful and support the inner shaft as much as possible to keep from damaging the seals.

 

What they said. Also be very careful when reinstalling the inner axle shafts. It's common for dirt and junk to accumulate in the axle tubes and if you aren't careful you can push that junk with the end of the axle shaft up into the seal and into the diff. If the junk gets between the seal and the shaft you instantly have an axle leak that the only way to fix is to tear everything down again.

 

A couple of questions to go along with all this...

What are good quality replacement parts (bearings, seals, ball joints, u-joints) for this job, and where do you order them from?

If you take out the differential housing, to replace the inner seals, must the gear mesh be set up again?

Thanks for letting me butt in!

Rich

 

I ordered my parts from multiple locations

National Seals from AdvanceAuto (Part #; 722108 small v-ring seal, 472397 for spindle where it meets stub axle-if Drum; 722109 for stub axle flange-if Disk-I didn't use this one, 8430S for wheel hub where it meets the spindle)

Timken Bearings from AutoZone (Set 45 for axle/hub bearings-if drum; not sure about disk bearings, B-2110 spindle bearing)

Spicer Ball Joints from CompleteOffRoad - http://completeoffroad.com/i-123149-ball-joints-dana-30-44-and-gm-8-5-706116x.html

All other parts, including Spicer u-joints, axle washers, nuts, snap ring, and ball joint tool from Oconee Offroad http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/ (Part #: 52427.00, 52424.00, 52424.01, 52403.51, 52302.101)

I was happy with the prices, shipping speed, and quality from the two online sources.

I did not do the inner seals.

 

no

 

I have not replaced ball joints, but the Spicer joints get recommended most often.

 

With the ball joint press the Spicer's went in very easily and seem to fit well. No snap ring needed on my CJ.

 

Spicer is fine,
But MOOG makes a better ball STUD for this application,



The MOOG upper ball stud can be greased without taking the axle/U joint out and you don't know how much I like that part!

Also, your grease Zerk doesn't get broken off every time the axle deflects or you break a U Joint,
Which again, you don't know how much I like that!

UPPER, P/N is on the box,



Just remember to pick a protected spot for the grease Zerk before you install,
And pick a spot you can get to the Zerk easily!
----------------------------

 

If you are gonna keep it- Buy Moog for the ball joints. The omix ones for 20 bucks a pair just don't hold up.

 

yeah, the MOOG problem solvers are really good. Use them all the time at my fathers shop.

 

use the shop vac(gawd I love that thing) with a hunk o heater hose as a nozzle and vac the tubes before installing the axles and the dirt issue isn't an issue.......

 

Thanks everyone for the advice and instruction. I've got just about everything, just waiting for what I had to order on line.

 

I will be replacing the bearings, outer seals, ball joints, axle u-joints, and all brake components on a dana 30. I'm debating on whether or not to replace the inner seals.

It is necessary to use a carrier spreader to remove, and re-install the housing, or is there an alternate way?

Is there a way to know if the inner seal actually need replacing, or not, without removing the housing, and visually checking them?

Rich

 

only if you saw leakage
it's always easier to do it now with a housing that's stripped down IMO.

 

That's why I asked about being able to tell if the inner seals were bad, or not.

If I don't HAVE to remove the housing, I won't, but in the event that I have to remove it, is a spreader absolutely necessary, for re-installation? Thanks.

Rich