Springs, U-bolts and spring plate problem.

I purchased a set of "stock" replacement Omix springs and replacement attachment hardware. The Omix u-bolts are stout 1/2 inch bolts and I found that when I tried to install them in the spring plate they were larger than the original bolts which were ~3/8". So I enlarged the spring plate holes to 1/2", this was just slightly larger than the existing holes. OK, no problem, but when I get the U-bolts on the axle I find that these 1/2" u-bolts interfere with the spring and won't drop into the spring plates. BTW the spring width is the same as stock.

What to do?

I could enlarge the holes in the spring plates to something like maybe 9/16 which may provide clearance?

Replace the U-bolts with 3/8" , too logical ?

Do you think the spring plate can handle the enlarged holes or should I just look for a source (non-Omix) for new U-bolts? Anyone know of a good source?

Aint it alway's something. I planned fun weekend under Jeep and now another hitch. Guess it goes with the territory.

 

I use Drive Shaft Services in Marietta. They custom make U-bolts on the spot and they are great to work with. Cheaper than Omix and not that far from you. They can match a sample u-bolt or go by spec. Very good drive shaft work too.

http://www.driveshaftservices.com/

 

The original U-bolts are 7/16" diam. These are 1/2". If you enlarge them symmetrically (ie with the same hole center), they won't fit. You need to enlarge the hole center radially outward from the spring center bolt.

Just file the holes in the plates on the outside corner of the existing hole and they will fit.

IMO you should have received the correct U-bolt diameter from the supplier. Sending the wrong diam bolts is lame, even if you can make them work. I would not have accepted these bolts.

 

When you re-drilled the holes you may have drilled centered on the old holes. You needed to enlarge the holes to the new size but keep the inside edge where it was. You can still make it work. Just get your drill out and elongate each hole outward (away from the spring and toward the end of the plate). If you search on here there is a diagram explaining what direction the holes need to go. Just think of it as the distance where the spring sits stays constant and the axle tube diameter stays constant. Since the u-bolt is thicker each edge of it needs to move away from both the spring and the tub at the same time.

oops tim beat me to it

 

Wow, you guy's are fast. I'm with you on the elongated holes, the removed area to the outside.

Yes, Patrick both bolts are in the spring plate. I was going to hammer them in but having never done this before I figured I'd get some group wisdom before I hammered them in

Thanks for the local resource dakwag, ya never know when you'll need them.

Tim, I agree that the these shouldn't have been shipped. I figured they were all the same diameter. They are what I asked for and I actually spoke to someone who really did sound knowledgeable before I bought them. The diameter of the bolt never came up. In this case size matters and bigger isn't better.

It looks like I can salvage this with some third world engineering by enlarging the holes, not optimum but probably OK for an old jeep. Now how can I hook up a powered file to enlarge the holes....

 

I did this exact thing not that long ago...I filed the yellow area...worked out just fine.

 

Yup.

 

Well, ok. Looks like I'm wrong about the 1/2" bolts.

I am now the proud owner of a BDS 2.5" lift kit, and sure enough, the bolts are all 1/2". Sigh. Looks like I'll need to take the die grinder to the front spring plates.

 

I've done this also. A dremel with the metal bit on it goes through it like butter. Juat make your marks with a pencil and grind til you get to the marks. It's easy and doesn't take long at all.

 

I just enlarged the holes on the front plates and I found the best tool I had was my jig saw and a fine metal blade. I walked the blade around the area I wanted to remove, you lightly push the blade around and just sort of file the area away. It was very controllable and much easier than hand filing. Definitely not the proper use of a jig saw but it worked for me.

I tried my Harbor Freight die grinder with the bits that came in the kit. What a joke, those bits were destroyed in 2 seconds. I guess they have very soft steel in China. I'm sure a real bit would have worked fine.

Filandras - what type of Dremel bit did you use? I looked for some at the HD and didn't see anything that looked like it would work. I use the Dremel for all sorts of stuff and find it can do amazing things with the right bit. I was disappointed I couldn't use it here.

 

Get some burs from Enco. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=250&PARTPG=INLMK32

Most of the cutting tools from HF are of very low quality. Skip the saw blades, abrasives, etc. If you have a HF 1/4" air powered die grinder, that's a very handy tool, and works well. Be sure to oil it every time you use it though.

 

Yep I spend at least 25 dollars and up on each die grinder bit which seems like alot but they last a long time and are always sharp when I need them

 

Guess what? The rear U-bolts are 1/2 inch!

News to me. I was pleasantly surprised when I was about to enlarge the holes.

If I read Tim's next to last post very carefully I would have known that because he said "Looks like I'll need to take the die grinder to the front spring plates."