Kinda an odd question

The switch for the Hazzard lights, is it on when pushed in or pulled out?

I was driving my jeep the other day and realized that my turn sigmals were not working, so when I pulled into jack in the box and notice that both signal lights were on, so I pulled the button out and the lights went out and I had turn signals again. The odd part is that I have not bothered with the hazzard switch for a while since my hazzards never worked (they did not flash they just stayed on). I may have hit it with my knee getting in or out but I don't remember.

 

Sooo, some how mine got backwards? Hmmm

 

On my '75, the hazard lights are on when the switch is pulled out.... if your hazard lights stay on, I would think that the plug in "flasher" needs to be replaced..

 

I am about 90% sure that they work when pulled out, but if they are not flashing and are staying on, I agree with Blackmgtd, sounds like a bad flasher to me.

 

Yeah, I kinda figgered that the flasher was bad, it is just odd that my hazards are off when the switch is pulled out now and my turn signals work again. If I am reading y'all right that is.
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Pulled out for sure. I have the original switch in mine, and that's how it operates.

 

+2 pulled out activates the hazards. I also have the original switch on the 75.

I would replace both flasher cans. Cheap and easy. If that doesn't fix the problem, make sure all your grounds are good, and be sure to clean the pyramid connector. Bad grounds and/or a dirty pyramid connector will cause the problem you have. It can also affect the brake lights.

My jeep sat outside in Santa Barbara for years while my son in law had it. The salt air wasn't very kind to the electrical system. Corrosion everywhere.

 

Like farfle said. There are 2, one for hazard and one for turn. Sounds like both are bad.

 

Okay, it just kinda seems strange that they are now backwards. I guess I will be replacing those once I get paid again. They are up under the dash right?

 

Yep, located on the firewall behind the parking brake, on the fuse panel.

When I replaced mine, I went to NAPA. They had two types. Type 1 was the conventional metal can, operates thermally. Type two is a more expensive electro mechanical deal, using a smoked plastic cover instead of the metal. You can see the electronic innards thru the plastic can. The type two will also work if you ever decide to go to a LED setup for the lights. I spent the extra bucks (about $10/ea) for the electro mechanical, as they are also supposed to last a lot longer than the thermal type.

After checking/cleaning my grounds and installing the new flashers, everything works very well, all the time. Because of the salt air exposure and resulting corrosion, I've found it necessary to clean the pyramid connector at least once a year. So far, so good.

 

Isn't the more expensive type electronic (aka solid state) rather than electro-mechanical? Electro-mechanical implies moving parts, ie a relay or switch. The conventional types have a thermal switch that opens and closes in response to heat from the current flowing through. This is why the signals flash faster with a trailer attached - more current, faster heating, faster flashing.